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I still have a few Le Mans and Can Am legal bodies on hand.

Most of the bodies have been sold. A very select few left in 1/24 and some Womp suitable bodies.

That sounds like a good plan Steven! They are definitely worth the work!

Here's some inside pictures for you Mike. This box has been used, abused, and loved!

The inside ain't pretty, but I will be leaving it just as it is.

Yup, this one is the real deal; Hoffman!

Well here it is the day before the race. I have roughly 24 hours to prepare my cars for racing at Rob's Redline Raceway. And what am I doing you might ask? Well I am working on my newest slot car pit box acquisition.....of course.....

I got this one off of Ebay. The stickers is what got me! I love slot boxes from the past, especially when they have been decorated with cool stickers by the previous owner! This box in particular really called to me. When I was 12 I was introduced to the 1966 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 396 that a friend of my mother's owned. It was the second "muscle" car I had even ridden in! And I rode in this one a lot! As in all the way across the USA. Virginia to Portland and back! Anyway that one vintage sticker got me to pay way too much for this box, as it goes on Ebay when there is something you really want!

I knew from the photos the box was well used and a little rough.......It arrived yesterday and after unboxing it was clear it was definitely a little rough. Since my main interest in this box is the stickers sanding it all down to refinish is not a pleasant thought. That to me is turning a priceless piece of history into a $50 box (which I already paid more than $100 for!).......In the past I have used a product called Mod Podge to seal vintage photos of advertisements for slot car items to pit wooden boxes. It has worked well for me. With this box it appears it had some sort of clear coat applied years ago. The clear coat had yellowed, become brittle, and started flaking off. I used a plastic bristle brush to knock off the loose stuff. I was careful to do as little damage to the old stickers as possible. The top of the box was in the worst shape with a damage already done to the stickers. Once the loose stuff was knocked off I applied Mod Podge over the entire surface of the box, sides, top, and back. My hope is to seal what's left of the old stickers to the wood and then give the whole box a good coat of clear. We'll see how it goes.........

After about 30 minutes the Mod Podge is starting to dry, and it's looking pretty promising.

Thanks Bob for the fun racing today! The new guys are getting faster....I'm not.....I see trouble ahead!

Here's a couple pictures I took...

What a fun race we had at Howie's last night! The racing was so fast and so close! Most all of the field was posting lap times under 4.7 seconds! That is very fast!

Here's a few photos I snapped.

Although it was not the Feature Race of the evening, it was definitely the most popular!

This was the largest field of Midgets we've had at The Redline since the class was introduced. These things are big fun! The racing action is crazy! Wild wrecks with the cars tumbling and flipping brings the volume way up in the room (mostly laughing!). It is amazing to me how durable these cars are! With many crashes and wrecks the only noted damage was on just three of the cars. One car lost the rear chrome "cage" piece (came off but didn't break), one car's driver lost his left arm (again, came off but didn't break anything), and one car in a trip off the track and onto the floor, ended up with the rear of the chassis bent. The chassis got bent but there was no damage to, or loss of any of the plastic chrome pieces!

Again, more really close racing! Only 9 laps separated first place from fifth place! These cars have plenty of power for what they are (think, bad handling Womps!). This is truly a driver's class, and Bob showed us who was the best driver! Bob completed his clean sweep of the night scoring his third win, and third PASER WEENER Point (PASER sponsors the Weekly Winner (WEENER Points) Point racing). Mike was only three laps behind Bob in second.

Four races were able to post sub-five second laps!

By the end of the race we had all spent some time laughing, howling, and shouting in excitement! What a great time it was! Thank you Rob for providing us the opportunity to race on your fantasticly fast track, and eat your awesome hot dogs and cookies! Thanks to all the racers for the great competition and comradery! Great times, great people!

I see these advertised as drag chassis jigs. It has a slot with a captive nut and screw set up for adjustability in building the guide flag tongue. It also has permanent pins for alignment of either 1/8" or 3/32" rear axle mounts.

So I'll close this out with a couple of items I got from Gary "Goose" Gossett. First is an aluminum block that is drilled and threaded. I figure from the smallish size it was intended for use in building 1/32 cars. It has been nicely machined flat, but I don't know what its intended use was. I have no other parts for it, maybe it was not completed....

This one is old! It's just a tech block, but from a time before Lexan and plastics were widely used for tech blocks and other things.
It is actually made from two clear sheets, drilled at the corners and secured together by screws and nuts. It looks like the guide flag slot was made with a soldering iron. A piece of paper with his name and address is sandwiched between the clear pieces. I met Goose in about 1980. The address listed on this tech block preceeds the address he lived at when I met him. This is the type of thing we would make when I was young. Why buy something if I can just make it? This tech block reminds me of my friend Goose!

There are also quite a few very specialized blocks available. I have tried a number of them, but most are better suited to builds with minimal soldering. Working with a torch on thick brass strip tends to damage them. You can tell from the name and email address this is an old jig! It is very nice and great when you don't need a lot of heat for the build.

Back Track @ AOL.com!

Threaded holes, hold down pieces, measured and scribed guide flag tongue hold down.

Nice rubber feet on the bottom too!

These are nice R-GEO blocks. They come with steel pegs and pins, and thumb screws with aluminum pieces for hold downs. The center slot is machined so a screw and nut can slide up and down the block for varying guide flag tongue lengths and positions. These are great jigs but, I would not recommend them for building the Pacific Northwest style of hardbody chassis.

This is my first one. I used it to build an .090" brass chassis.

This block has a recessed space for a guide flag. I don't normally solder on a chassis with the guide flag in place, but this block might be handy for repairs or changing motors where they are soldered in place.

This is a flat piece of wood with some sort of material laminated to the top. Whoever made this one countersunk a nut in the top, I presume to secure a guide tonge. It has also been scribed with horizontal and vertical markings and holes have been drilled for pins. This would probably be OK for light solder work, but you can see where the top laminate has been distorted by heat.

This is a great soldering block from Carlisle and will withstand the heat from a torch.