I made a Video last night as I was disassembling the car. It shows the small but many changes we made to the chassis in hope of making it more durable, and cheaper to build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4X5wi0HHnw8&t=16s
Zack
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The NASTE Forum → Posts by Wanabgts
I made a Video last night as I was disassembling the car. It shows the small but many changes we made to the chassis in hope of making it more durable, and cheaper to build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4X5wi0HHnw8&t=16s
Zack
Upon further reflection, I would like to stay true to the original intent of the era-based buckets and say that a fleet of Can Am cars competing together in PGE is consistent with those objectives. I don't see a need to alter the rules as they were originally drafted.
The only change I might consider is bringing the 1968 start date back to 1965. That year was originally selected because that's where the Classics class used to cut off, but that has now moved to 1964. It might add an interesting car or two into the mix- the Cobra, GT350 Mustang, earlier Corvette, 250 GTO, 250 LM, 365, 330, etc... so I will still propose it here. Any thoughts? Any objections?
Chris
I am good with this!
Zack
Today I brought along my Slot.it LMP and my scaleauto corvette to Inslots checkered flag.
I had scaleauto white stripe foams on the LMP and red strips on the Vette.
Both the cars ran great on these tires, lots of grip, smooth and predictable.
With some deeper guides I think they would be very fun. Sounds like Bill is going to grab some and do some od his own testing!
Zack
Izzat a Super 16D?
Yeah just a 502 Parma!
Zack
Keep can am. The racing is great, they are NOT the dominate cars anyway. I see no reason why a well sorted gt40, nsr 917, or a host of other cars couldnt win it in its current form. And crossover is cars is favorable in my opinion...
We had a great race with those cars. I won in a tie with a non can am entry.
Zack
Thanks for letting me test run it Bill. Hope to finalize the details within the next week!
Zack
Amazing craftsmanship. I already learned so much from his cars at the races. Thanks for sharing, many good ideas there!
Zack
Both these classes had fun battles. The Carrera cars are pretty slow, but they stay in pretty well and there was some good battles throughout the race.
Zack
Progress report. I made an error bending the first chassis plate, so I am hoping to complete one chassis out of the remaining prototype parts.
I got the correct countersink from McMaster carr. This is hand tapped 2-56 (TINY), and bent on the press brake in my shop. So far so good!
Hopefully this chassis will be in a running state next week, and I can get one of these guys with a big track to let me in and do some testing!
Zack
Looking good howie, that is an interesting chassis design. I have not come across one of those yet, I am still a newbie!
Zack
I am looking forward to switching. I think the Carrera's will race well, although are a stark contrast to the LMP entries!
I wouldn't count out those working on the Mosler's for LMP, those are VERY fast cars.
Zack
I have a yellow cooper from the 24..
Yeah i am happy with the choice of material. I think it will be a big improvement.
Zack
That was a strange feeling leaving Howie's with my name in first place. I knew a few of the guys would beat me, it was just a question of how many. Still I am thrilled with 4th. It was nice not having any trouble for once.
That was a great run Rico!
Zack
You could get the DD304 with upgraded heatsink and 5 ohm brake for $266. It is the same as DD281 except 3 ohm brake
You would want to make sure and call him, since this is obviously not standard pricing.
Zack
Fellow racers; I have a dilemma: I have four Difalco controllers. One I have been using since about 2003. Over the years I have purchased 3 more. The latest one I bought a couple yrs. ago and it has the heat sink toward the end of the hookup lines, I can't remember what the part # is for it. That is the one I am currently using. All my controllers have the brake and sensitivity pods. However now I am considering the Difalco 218 with traction control. I swore I would never spend over $200.00 for a controller, the DD218 is at least $350.00+. I have checked out prices on controllers; any where from about $200.00 to $800.00!
Racers: tell me the pros and cons about your 1/24th. controller. I guess I need to be convinced to spend the $.
BTW, the one you "want" is probably the DD281, which is his top of the line controller.
Zack
Howie, there was some discussion about this in the "slot talk" portion of the forum as well.
I have what is basically a 280. I originally bought the dd304, but quickly found the heat sink was not up to the task...so I switched it for the Genesis 2 heat sink which basically made it the 280. I do however, want to upgrade the brake pot. So basically I should have just paid the extra 50 bucks and got the brake pot and the big heatsink from the start.
I noticed immediate improvement when using the HD30 controllers, even the night I borrowed one of yours because of the heat sink issue....I was immediately slower. The 30 bands for me makes more difference than anything else, but I have found that if you have a car that chatters a little if you get on the gas too fast the traction control is a life saver.
This happened with new tires on the TA2 car for me, and I could easily just dial back the traction control as opposed to recalibrating my driiving....a big advantage and a lot nicer to the car!
I would borrow one for some laps.....I think just about everyone who has ended up buying one!
Zack
Zack; you are up to twelve for sure chassis with 2 more possibles according to my list and that is not including you.
So we are!
Zack
Well soft rubber tires heat cycle at a much lower temp than a road tire. On the hoosier racing slicks for my race car a heat cycle is considered anything over a core temp of 110*f. After 6 or 7 cycles there is a definite drop in performance, and the rubber does increase in durometer.
IDK if this can actually happen in a slot car, but on a real car is a very real a noticeable event!
Zack
Has any body checked the shore rating before and after a race. I wonder if after a heat cycle they are not slightly harder shore. I know when I race on road sedan nitro that did did happen but also working with a lot more temp in the track vs what you see with a slot car
I haven't, but I am sure that is what happens. Since they are natural rubber, the off gassing over time also just makes them naturally less grippy.
Zack
The Hudy is pretty much the industry standard, and if you are trying to do 1/8" axles it is also one of your best bets. The only real downside to it compared to the scaleauto is it is not self regulating, so you have to use the power supply to control voltage.
For me this is a lot harder to do with a power supply than a regular roll knob like the scale auto has.
Short answer, I would probably buy the Hudy and a $50 dollar adjustable power supply if you want to be able to do everything.
I also use the Scaleauto for plastic wheels, I just remove them carefully from the axle and use a drop of glue to mount them to the arm. A small 3/32 hole drilled through most wheels is hardly noticeable IMO.
The Foam tires do react well to truing, and even though I have thought I had a set working well, new ones proved faster everytime for me. Which i'm guessing is why everyone fast changes them almost every race at Howie's.
The key with truing is to take your time!
That is awesome! Looks like my new favorite pit spot!
Zack
The NASTE Forum → Posts by Wanabgts
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