When we first began discussing this class we just happened to be comparing the merits of Scalextric RTR cars to Fly RTR cars so we started to discuss racing these together. I occurs to me that Revell/Monogram also make several cars that fit into the specs that we are considering and with similar tuning could maybe be competitive with the other two. I'm wondering if we want to consider including this brand for the sake of greater variety. There might also be some who would like to participate that already own these and maybe not the others. Just a thought.

HuH Mitch58: Are you picking on me per you're last comment about Goose hunting???????

No Goose, not picking on you. Just trying to run down what's in front of me, it's just most of the time it appears to be you.

I'm usually one of the guys constantly upgrading and swapping parts just trying to keep up with you faster drivers, and I do like driving a smooth car, but too many upgrades is what happened to our classic sports car and Trans Am classes. I'm all for improvement to the handling of these cars, I suppose the issue is Motors.  It appears that Fly and Scalextric get their motors from the same supplier, at least they both show "black stripe" motors as 'Factory" replacement motors. I personally prefer the smooth power band of the H&R Hawk motor. 
  I pulled the label off of an older Scalextric "Sport"motor the other day, it had a black stripe underneath it. Go figure. If we are considering upgrading axles are we also considering upgrading wheels? Fly wheels won't fit Slot it axles. Another point to consider, many of the Fly cars now have 3D chassis available that take slot it pods. Rules, rules, rules.
I'm just here for the thrill of the chase, or is it Goose hunting?

The motor in my front motored Scalextric Vette went south already and I replaced it with an H&R Hawk motor, it no longer qualifies, but it sure runs smoother. My Fly Porsche 906 on the other hand runs very well in it's original stock condition. I'm quite happy with it. I have to force myself to leave it on the shelf so I don't wear it out before I need it.

805

(17 replies, posted in Parkside Raceway)

That looks simple enough, is there a particular chip you recommend? Or is there just one Scaley chip? As far as the body work, I have a Dremel and I'm not afraid to use/abuse it.

806

(17 replies, posted in Parkside Raceway)

Monte, what is involved in installing a chip in a standard Slot it car?

807

(6 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

http://northwesttruescaleracers.com/index.cfm    All of the specs for the different classes are here. All 1/24 scale.

808

(9 replies, posted in NASTE)

Hey Monte, I have a Parma 1ohm controller that will get you off the line in a hurry, and take you all the way to the first corner. After that it's, well, spectacular.

809

(9 replies, posted in NASTE)

I have both, the professor motor seems to be tougher regarding getting hooked up wrong, the DS on the other hand is much smoother as far as driving the cars and is a much better feeling controller. That being said several of us have had to send them back to get brake pods replaced, mostly due to hooking them up wrong even for just a moment. Goose seems to have fried one running the older cars with the heavy voltage draw. DiFalco makes one now for about the same price. I've never had one but have never seen any bad press about the product. Rico has one of the older higher end Difalcos that he likes quite a bit.

That looks great Stan, we can hardly wait.

811

(9 replies, posted in NASTE)

Yes Bob, thanks, Chris and I had a great time.

812

(7 replies, posted in Wanted)

My freezer in the garage is covered with them (it's right next to the workbench). I'll peel some off.

813

(6 replies, posted in NASTE)

Good luck with that. :-)

814

(6 replies, posted in NASTE)

In the trans am, are we using stock rubber tires or urethane tires? I found that with rubber tires the rear magnet position worked best, but with urethane tires on Bobs track you want to move it forward otherwise the front will come out if you get on it hard. That rare condition known as too much traction.

815

(17 replies, posted in Parkside Raceway)

That's a tough time to try to get to Vancouver from Tigard, but I'll give it a try. Keep us posted.

Monte, how does that 906 run? I like the looks of those but haven't gotten myself to pull the trigger. I have two bodies, a Strombecker and an Eldon but those won't do me any good here. I might put the Eldon on an MRRC Club chassis just for fun. It would be nice to see something other than Ferraris and Fords.

That particular car has an odd size rim, the center flange is 6.5mm wide, most of my wider tires are either made for a 6.mm flange or are too low profile for the 250GTO.I ordered a couple of tires with a 7mm flange from SCC to give it another go. I'll save the stock ones for you to set into a mold.

I took my Fly 250LM to Al's . it wants to run 8.7-8.6 with the occasional 8.5. Al's scaley gt40 was running a steady 8.5-8.3. My Fly GT250 was abysmal. It wouldn't get below a 9, but tires were an issue.

Not me Goose,
I have a few front motored cars that I purchased just because I liked the looks of them, but their handling leaves something to be desired. I'll probably go with something in a sidewinder configuration. I have the hacked on Ferrari 250Lm (poor thing). I don't think I need another GT40 (sorry Chris). I'm leaning towards the blue Porsche 906, but it bugs the heck out of me to pay an extra $25 just to get something other than white.
Quick question though, we are talking about Scalextric and Fly cars that ran in Le Mans '71 and earlier, so does that include the Scalextric Corvette from that era? I know it is front motored, but I've never ran one and don't know if they are as clumsy as the rest. They look nice though.

I know that the Fly and Scalextric sidewinder cars have room for weight. I don't know about the front motored cars.

I think that the older Scaleys and Nincos for that matter that have the clamshell type body are a technological oddity that we have the ability to overcome, just in the name of fair play, otherwise we will all be running the same car. That being said my Fly 250Lm has been lowered, altered, parts cut off to fit a pod type chassis long before we discussed this class. After finding and reusing all of the original pieces and rebuilding the body post to get the correct height, I think I might have to invoke the 3.5 rule. That says, that from 3.5 feet away my car looks box stock. At least until I can get another one.

RE: The Fly gear issue, until Electric dreams updated their website the other day, every Fly sidewinder car had a note about replacing the pinion with a Scalextric pinion to run quieter. It is an 11 tooth pinion. Mine happens to have a brass pinion on what I think is actually a Scaley black stripe motor (built out of the parts box of course) and it runs very quiet. Scalextric offers their 11 tooth pinion gears in a package of 4 for $3.99.
  I have since found the original Fly motor. It seems to be much quicker.

Nope, same car, just a little more tweaking on the old rattle trap.

824

(21 replies, posted in Events)

Thanks Al for another great night of racing.

825

(4 replies, posted in Cars)

That one probably handles much better than mine with that wider stance. I wanted to cut out the wheel wells like that, but every time I try they get crooked.