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Hello Racers, Builders & Collectors,
#9
 This month I have built a chassis for a Shelby Series 1 Roadster made by Revell; the model is available from e-bay, national Hobby Shops and some Hobby Lobby Stores. The body is painted blue and all the detail is finished and ready to run. The car has tested very well and it will compleat in upcoming selected sports car races.
 All the parts and tools I use to build a chassis are readily available from many different outlets like Ace Hardware, Amazon, e-Bay, National Slot Car Shops, National Tool Shops, online outlets & other stores. If you cannot find what you are looking for, I sell almost everything to build a chassis here at Dust Devil Slot Cars. If I do not have it, or you want to know where to get, I will tell you where it can be had at the best price. I will also show anyone how to solder correctly and how to build a chassis here at Dust Devil Slot Cars. If you have any questions or need more pictures let me know and I will do my best to answer them.  Jim

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#8
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
  This month's build is completely different than what I have shown up to now. I have built a Retro Brass & Wire chassis, from a partial brass chassis kit. The body I made the chassis for is a USRRC 1965 Mirage sports car to run in retro USRRC - Can/Am races. The body is .015 and is reverse painted in maroon. The driver will be in the driver's seat with the steering wheel and a rollbar before the race starts.
 The basic kit consists of five parts. (picture four) The rest is what you put into it. There are no instructions. I have seen this kit built in many different configurations with different ideas on how to connect the different brass parts. The width, length, & steel wire configuration, this is left up to the builder. I narrowed the brass side pans and shortened the center wires to fit this reproduction body from the late 1960's to the early 1970's. The chassis has a short 3 3/4" wheel base, with a 2 11/16" width. The front wheels are JK 5/8". The motor cooling fins I made.
  If you have any questions or want to see more pictures, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.  Jim 

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#7
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
 This month I have a 2005 - 2006 Ford GT body from Polar Lights for this build. The chassis is finished and has been tested at my track Dust Devil Slot Cars and ran very well. The body is painted Powder Blue and all the body detail is finished with Dan Gurney All American Racer decals. The motor cooling wings were made by me for this build to keep the Super 16D motor cool. This Ford GT was built for the OSCAR Sports Car Class.
 If you look at the chassis builds that I have done, the chassis may look similar but no two chassis are built the same. I build chassis for readily available model bodies that do not cost a fortune, then advise the owner to buy an extra model body of the same car in case of too much race damage and the body is falling apart. The owner can paint the backup body and have a new car again.  My big mistake was I built a sports car chassis for a Fujimi 1/24 Ferrari F355 Berlinetta model body for $24.00 and $5.00 to ship ten years ago, I did not think to buy a second body at that time. Over the years the body started getting beat up, now I need a new Ferrari F355 Berlinetta body.  Check the price of that body today, plus shipping. 
  As always, if you have any questions or need more pictures, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.  Jim

Hello Kevin,

It seems to give the chassis better handling in the corners. I cannot really explain how or why it works. It is something I tried on the fourth slot car chassis that I made, and it seemed to work well. I have made all the chassis that will accept that style rear end ever since.

I hope this helps, Jim

Hello Kevin,
Are you going to the Spring Water Trans/AM race this Friday? I will be there and can help with building pointers that I use, also Stewart may have some pointers? Do not buy a solder gun or solder pencell station...

Jim

Hello Steven,

Pick-a-day any day and I will be there with a truck load of parts & cars in boxes new & used. Sign me up for this event... (I love a good swap meet)

Jim

Hello Kevin,

Do you have any pictures of the car? What are the rules for Pelican Park Hard body races?

Jim
Timedistance@outlook.com

Sign me up... Professor Fate

Hello Kevin,

I soldered the side pan center for two reasons; #1 It brings in the side pans in so I can mount a smaller body on the chassis. #2 The smaller bodies do not seem to need the movement of the center section.  (I could be way off on this.) This is what I have noticed on the builds that I have made on the small cars.

I hope this helps.
Jim

Bill
The cars are just fun and way too cool. It is good to see different style of vintage racing coming back to life. The old cars were not fast and they did not handle well although you are able to work out some of the problems of the early chassis to get them to run better. They were the most fun to drive and a great racing challenge.

Happy racing,
Jim

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#3
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
  I started with a Revell Mustang IMSA GTO Series 1/24 hard plastic model body made in 1987. I scratch built the chassis for the 1987 Mustang.  This is how it looks like today. The car ran very well at "Tom's World" track in Bend, Oregon during practice session with no paint, windows or interior.  The body will get full paint and larger rear tires before the race next season at Dust Devil Slot cars for the 1980-2010 IMSA - DTM - GTO - Trans/Am hard body Challenge race. I will update the picture after it gets painted. I build a lot of chassis for upcoming races then paint them as needed. That way I can practice driving them without banging up the paint.
If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

Jim