1

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,

It seems to give the chassis better handling in the corners. I cannot really explain how or why it works. It is something I tried on the fourth slot car chassis that I made, and it seemed to work well. I have made all the chassis that will accept that style rear end ever since.

I hope this helps, Jim

2

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#6
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
 This month I went back to my favorite body maker Doug Haynes of Resilient Resins for this build. The body is a Chaparral mk1 of driver / owner / builder Jim Hall ( another fan favorite).  This chassis was built for the Chaparral mk1 car body only I do not expect the chassis to fit any other body, but I really do not know or care, because I do not use specific built chassis for one car body to fit other car bodies (it rarely ever works). The chassis is finished and was tested with the body on, at Tom's World in Bend, Oregon. I have surface primer painted the body in white and it is now ready for final white paint / decals and final clear coat then the interior, windshield, etched metal, roll bar, final detail paint and new rear tires. I will add the picture to this post when I get the paint finished. 
 I am slow at getting the cars painted because I am building chassis for myself or other racers in the club.
 As always, if you have any questions or need more pictures, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.  Jim
https://8upload.com/image/d84faea7f4e29848/DSC05993.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/564d482078789797/DSC05998.jpghttps://8upload.com/image/8e6cd5fd2045c7b8/DSC05999.jpg

3

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,
Are you going to the Spring Water Trans/AM race this Friday? I will be there and can help with building pointers that I use, also Stewart may have some pointers? Do not buy a solder gun or solder pencell station...

Jim

4

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,
Here is a you tube video that may help in building slot car chassis. I have not met you, so I do not know if you have seen this video. There are four parts to the video, and it does have some good ideas. The guy is building a 1/32 chassis, but a chassis build is the same idea as a 1/24 scale build. If you have not seen it, you may want to take a look. (I first saw the video about six years ago).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO6PbSx … mp;index=2

Jim

5

(11 replies, posted in Cars)

Hello Steven,

Pick-a-day any day and I will be there with a truck load of parts & cars in boxes new & used. Sign me up for this event... (I love a good swap meet)

Jim

6

(7 replies, posted in Freedom Raceway)

Hello Steven,

The track looks cool and challenging. Very nice work on the track build, setup and it looks great.
When is the next race and what are you going to be racing?

Jim

7

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,

Do you have any pictures of the car? What are the rules for Pelican Park Hard body races?

Jim
Timedistance@outlook.com

8

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#5
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
 This month I went back to my favorite body maker Doug Haynes of Resilient Resins for this build. Doug always had great affordable bodies that you could never find anywhere else. This body is a McLaren mk1B some people call it a McLaren mk2 of owner / builder / driver Bruce McLaren (always a fan favorite).  This chassis was built for this Mclaren mk1B slot car body only. I do not expect the chassis to fit any other body, it may fit other Resilient Resins bodies, but I really do not know. The chassis is finished and was tested with the body on, at Tom's World in Bend, Oregon. After testing, I surface primer painted the body in Tamiya white, with the final Tamiya flat white paint then added the lime accents and new rear tires. The roll bar is .063 K&S wire with a used hard plastic windshield from a Strombecker lotus 30, there was some old glue from the previous body. It is hard to find good clean windows. I will add the driver later & new rear tires before it is raced next. I have already cut the excess wire on the rear.
 As always, if you have any questions or need more pictures, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.  Jim
https://8upload.com/image/8d1df535edc84019/DSC06001.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/2b0a4f496681abf8/DSC06007.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/81033cc0afa630a8/DSC06005.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/0fb8b3c408f105ca/DSC06004.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/03dc4c21a1325a40/DSC06002.jpg

Sign me up... Professor Fate

10

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,

The front wheels that I used on the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe are Pro-Track #248 from any slot car parts seller.

I hope this helps.

Jim

11

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello Kevin,

I soldered the side pan center for two reasons; #1 It brings in the side pans in so I can mount a smaller body on the chassis. #2 The smaller bodies do not seem to need the movement of the center section.  (I could be way off on this.) This is what I have noticed on the builds that I have made on the small cars.

I hope this helps.
Jim

12

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#4
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
 This chassis was a test for me to see if I can build a brass & wire chassis for a hotrod body, without having the guide hanging out of the front in order to pass tech of "no guide flag beyond the bumper". 
  I started with a Jimmy Flintstone Resin body 1/24. I scratch built the chassis for the 1927 Ford roadster. I tried to make it look like it was built in the late 1960's early 1970's using some old vintage parts available at that time in history.  This is how it looks like today. The body will get full paint, interior & photoetched grill whenever I get time to finish it. I will add the picture in this writing after it gets painted. 
If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

Jim
https://8upload.com/image/e94c11aecccd4de7/DSC05992.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/36200c187b979b79/DSC05989.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/47b280c3d2db8fab/DSC05990.jpg
https://8upload.com/image/dbae9ec980009a9f/DSC05991.jpg

Bill
The cars are just fun and way too cool. It is good to see different style of vintage racing coming back to life. The old cars were not fast and they did not handle well although you are able to work out some of the problems of the early chassis to get them to run better. They were the most fun to drive and a great racing challenge.

Happy racing,
Jim

14

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

As soon as I can get enough people interested. We can also run teams of two if racers want to run the race and do not have the proper car and chassis for that race. Loads of Fun ...

Jim

15

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Slot Car Chassis build of the month
#3
Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:
  I started with a Revell Mustang IMSA GTO Series 1/24 hard plastic model body made in 1987. I scratch built the chassis for the 1987 Mustang.  This is how it looks like today. The car ran very well at "Tom's World" track in Bend, Oregon during practice session with no paint, windows or interior.  The body will get full paint and larger rear tires before the race next season at Dust Devil Slot cars for the 1980-2010 IMSA - DTM - GTO - Trans/Am hard body Challenge race. I will update the picture after it gets painted. I build a lot of chassis for upcoming races then paint them as needed. That way I can practice driving them without banging up the paint.
If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

Jim
https://8upload.com/image/3d0fdf79ee4a4ed9/DSC05982.jpg

https://8upload.com/image/0ef49ea1657fc331/DSC05984.jpg

16

(2 replies, posted in Track)

Hello Steven & All Slot Racers,

I will try to get the 1/32 - 1/25 six lane routed track set up and running this summer if all goes well. The track was purchased from Rad-Tracks in Las Vegas back in 2005. This will give us options on the different tracks to run like clubman and early Can-Am hard body cars & possibly vintage Lexan soft body races if there is enough interest in the early slot cars.

Jim

17

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

#2

Hello Slot Car Builders, Collectors, & Racers:

I started with a Lindburg 1/24 Ford Cobra Coupe hard plastic model body made in the 1960's. I "scratch built" the chassis for the 1965 Shelby Cobra Daytona, then NickiJ in the NASTE slot car club over in Bend, Oregon painted the body. This is how it looks like today. The car ran very well at "Tom's World" track in Bend, Oregon during practice.

If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

Happy New Year.

-Jim

https://8upload.com/image/a759b17bd5811777/DSC05967.jpg

18

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

#1

Hello Slot Car Racers & builders,                                                                                                   

I started with an old Doug Haynes Resilient Resins McLaren M8A body, made in the 1990's which I won at auction on e-bay in 2005, NOS in the original bag. The body sat until 2022 when I scratch built the chassis for the Resin Mclaren M8A CAN-AM. I then painted the body. This is how it looks like today.

The car has some practice time so there is no driver installed. (The car ran very well at 7.461 seconds on Tom's track in Bend, Oregon during practice).

If there are any questions, I will do my best to answer them. 

Scroll down to view more builds.

-Jim

https://8upload.com/image/0291ba6f1dd7b6e1/DSC05944.jpg

https://8upload.com/image/33b5e21ccd76312e/DSC05962.jpg

19

(26 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hello slot car racers,

   I build slot car chassis from scratch, also known as "scratch built".  There are NO easy-to-follow instructions.  The body you are building the chassis for, are the instructions.  
  I try to build two chassis a month; some bodies will be unpainted as they are for someone who wants me to build a custom chassis. This is to show what can be done. If you have any questions, I will try to answer them as best as I can. I want the slot car hobby to live on.   
  In order to build a good chassis, you will need a good quality chassis jig, wire bender, wheel diameter blocks, 90-degree square, 80-watt solder iron, good quality solder (NOT the cheap crap), good clean brass & steel piano wire, sandpaper, a Dremel and some common hand tools (needle nose pliers, skewer/stick, ruler with 10th or mm increments & sharpie marker, your choice of tools). You will also NEED some patience, practice & imagination. 

Remember, it takes longer to do it fast and wrong than it does to build it slowly & correctly.  

Always use the best quality tools & parts to build the best quality items.
 
  I am not saying I am smarter than the next guy, because I am definitely not. It is that some people just do not know the difference between scratch built and a kit. i.e. (If you put together a Revell model kit - you did not scratch build the model) the same goes for scratch building a slot car chassis. This is Not a kit with instructions!

You may need to sign in to view the pictures.

Jim Mitchell

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/JM1.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/JM2.jpg

Hello fellow slot car racers,

  I have some New Old Stock 1/24 Champion Stamped steel 4" Turbo Flex chassis for sale part #420 at $21.00 each.
Let me know if you are interested and I can send pictures to your phone or e-mail.

  You can text or call me at 54one-5two7-93one4 if no answer, please leave message and I will call or text you back. Please leave something to do with slot cars in the message.

Thank you,

Jim

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/jimchampion.jpg

21

(0 replies, posted in Cars)

Hello fellow slot car racers,

  I have some New Old Stock 1/24 TSRF basic chassis kits for sale part #24003 at $35.00 each, and some factory hubs, motors, gears & other spar NOS parts for the 1/24 chassis.

  Let me know if you are interested and I can send pictures to your phone or e-mail.
To see the picture, you will need to sign in and click on the attachment to see the chassis.

54one 5two7nine3one4

Please leave message and add question about TSRF.

Thank you,

Jim

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/jims_ad_TSRF2.jpg

22

(0 replies, posted in Cars)

Hello fellow slot car racers,

  I have some New Old Stock 1/32 TSRF full chassis kits for sale part #32004 at $35.00 each, and some other spar NOS parts for the 1/32 chassis.

  Let me know if you are interested and I can send pictures to your phone or e-mail.
To see the picture, you will need to sign in and click on the attachment to see the chassis.

54one 5two7nine3one4

Please leave message and add question about TSRF.

Thank you,

Jim

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/jims_ad_TSRF.jpg

23

(1 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Hello slot car racers,

  I build slot car chassis from scratch.    Also known as scratch built.
They are not from a chassis kit that is assembled, a chassis striped down and reassembled, or something cut from many chassis and soldered together as a Frankenstein chassis. 
  In order to build a good chassis, you will need a good quality jig, wire bender, wheel diameter blocks, 90-degree square, 80-watt solder iron, good clean metal your choice, Dremel and some common hand tools (needle nose pliers, skewer - stick, ruler & pen or pencell).
  Sign in and click on the attachment below.
 
  I am not saying I am smarter than the next guy, because I am definitely not. It is that some people just do not know the difference. i.e. (If I put together a Revell model kit - I did not scratch build it).

Jim Mitchell

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/JimMitchel_chassis.jpg

Hello Bill,

What is a good day to swing by? Earley or late?

Thank you,
Jim -=Professor fate

25

(1 replies, posted in Cars)

Hello Bill,

  Can you bring the Blue Groove bodies that I have ordered to Tom's and I can get you paid for them.

Thank you,

Jim