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The NASTE Forum → Posts by Wanabgts
Made some more progress on cars over the weekend.
This 70 Cyclone build it supposed to be headed to France for a guy, and I finished up my Capri restoration project I got from Rico. Making new lightweight windows out of .005" clear styrene actually worked pretty well! I need to install some new mesh on the rear fenders, but other than that it is a screamer for a fly car!
I decided not to let John have all the fun. So I finally put my Pattos decal kit on Can Am car. Probably added a little weight, but it looks cool!
Looks REAL nice!
Zack
Howie's Ferrari is a very good handling car!
I also have a McFarland built Ferrari that can be run!
Zack
I will take a Chevy!
I can strip em and redo if needed.
Thanks!
Zack
Just thought I would see if anyone has a late model Chevy SS or Fusion nascar body locally. Before I go and spend 30 dollars for one on ebay.
I gotta get started building a 500 car!
Zack
I'm planning to build a second NASCAR, but I have a sportscar loaner as well as a spare sportsman car if someone wants to use them.
I have no problems loaning equipment to get people out!
Zack
I am there just lock down the dates!
Zack
I just wanna race............................
Zack
Cool looking little car Mitch!
Zack
The Fairlane was finished up this weekend. I also did up some new wheels and tires for my Camaro, and dinked around with an LMP car!
Zack
Styrene? No saw blades?
Wah??? Styrene is nice to work with and glue. Easy work!
Zack
Progress on the Fairlane last night!
Got the wheels painted, tires mounted, glued and trued. Then I started working on the body mounts and front grill. Lastly I shaved the door handles.
Front spoiler I fasioned out of .020" Styrene.
Zack
Geeze you need a forklift for some of those!
Zack
I think that chassis will work fantastically! What motor will it use?
The spec motor for the Showdown series is a Piranha 21.5.
Because I went with the lighter side pans the chassis only weighs 40g. So I am hoping I can stay under like 90 when its all said and done.
I figured I would make the pans light, and then tune with lead. That way I can add some to both sides for the road course and stack the left pan for the oval!
Zack
Lots of really cool stuff there Bill!
Zack
I have a very similar project:
Looking good Rico. I remember this car working well last time I drove it!
I have started building a Monogram Fairlane. I plan to send it into the Summer Slam over the HRW forum, but also wanted it to work well on the road course.
So I came up with a symmetrical chassis, that is essentially a scaled down version of the Econo cars we race at Howie's.
This design can be used because the tires protrude out of the body as-is, and there is no rules about keeping the tires under the body work.
Now I just got to hog out some wheel wells and get this body mounted!
Zack
Some really cool looking stuff there Bill!
Zack
The next car I started working on was my "World Championship" proxy car. A race which you have qualify into with a 5th place or higher finish in a national proxy.
This is my v2 car. To compare against my first and start going down an upgrade path.
I have had a lot of success recent running C-cans in angle winder pods, so I wanted to give that a shot. Again, not the strongest motor for starting out. But I can easily upgrade that once the handling is there!
Zack
A couple projects finished up this weekend.
This Fly Viper was one of the first three slot cars I purchased. Not knowing that it would be utter crap. So this weekend I set out to fix it!
The motor is only an 18k, and it could handle more. But it runs very nicely now with some aluminum wheels, and a Slot.it pod coversion.
Not a cheap or easy car to build. But I have hung on to the first three cars that got me into the hobby, so at least now I can enjoy this one!
Yes, it looks like you are using a solid rod rather than tubes. Did you decide one over the other or that's just what you used?
Monte, I feel the piano wire for the main rails is far superior. Usually have some "flex" is advantageous. The wire, while it can be bent, has great recoil. So unless you really slam it you should be fine.
The tubing will provide almost no flex, and has no recoil. So if it bends, its going to stay bent!
If you looks at Samson and Chris Walker cars almost all of them employ .047" or .055" wire for the "main" rails!
Zack
Zack - rod rather than tube? Bend issue?
What are we talking about here?
Zack
Another project "completed" last night. Probably going to put a little hotter motor in it or maybe gear it up. But it handles well for not spending a lot of time finished the tires.
The car is a Sloter Lola t160.
.063" Thick side pans
.032" thick front and rear pans
Samson classics guide tube and WRP guide tongue.
Pod is mounted using 2-56 screws and nylocks (pods is reamed) and it sits on 3mm thick rubber washers.
Nice and smooth.
I didn't spend a lot of time on the body other than making a light interior, which for paper turned out pretty good. I handpainted the driver figure and the mirrors etc because they looked like cheap chrome.
Zack
The nibblers I have seen for the dill are usually a round profile. I have a hell of a time cutting anything close to straight with them.
I have a pneumatic one at work as well and its the same for me...
Zack
The NASTE Forum → Posts by Wanabgts
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