151

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

wb0s wrote:

I think that chassis will work fantastically! What motor will it use?

The spec motor for the Showdown series is a Piranha 21.5.

Because I went with the lighter side pans the chassis only weighs 40g. So I am hoping I can stay under like 90 when its all said and done.

I figured I would make the pans light, and then tune with lead. That way I can add some to both sides for the road course and stack the left pan for the oval!

Zack

152

(221 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Lots of really cool stuff there Bill!

Zack

153

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

reek455 wrote:

I have a very similar project:

https://i.postimg.cc/pXkgD1gk/IMG-0718.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/28CsLfXV/IMG-0719.jpg

Looking good Rico. I remember this car working well last time I drove it!


I have started building a Monogram Fairlane. I plan to send it into the Summer Slam over the HRW forum, but also wanted it to work well on the road course.

So I came up with a symmetrical chassis, that is essentially a scaled down version of the Econo cars we race at Howie's.

This design can be used because the tires protrude out of the body as-is, and there is no rules about keeping the tires under the body work.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49751161377_04d9a47e07_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49750832411_eb749c7234_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49751160837_12d27bc03f_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49750292693_1b8515a69a_k.jpg

Now I just got to hog out some wheel wells and get this body mounted!

Zack

154

(27 replies, posted in PASER)

Some really cool looking stuff there Bill!

Zack

155

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

The next car I started working on was my "World Championship" proxy car. A race which you have qualify into with a 5th place or higher finish in a national proxy.

This is my v2 car. To compare against my first and start going down an upgrade path.

I have had a lot of success recent running C-cans in angle winder pods, so I wanted to give that a shot. Again, not the strongest motor for starting out. But I can easily upgrade that once the handling is there!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743675663_90c9cdc5a4_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743694478_30de0b4fd2_k.jpg

Zack

156

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

A couple projects finished up this weekend.

This Fly Viper was one of the first three slot cars I purchased. Not knowing that it would be utter crap. So this weekend I set out to fix it!

The motor is only an 18k, and it could handle more. But it runs very nicely now with some aluminum wheels, and a Slot.it pod coversion.

Not a cheap or easy car to build. But I have hung on to the first three cars that got me into the hobby, so at least now I can enjoy this one!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743675698_7b4a16686f_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743675818_513f3ed7d4_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49744221561_74ad9b0b2a_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743675993_95f6d03f45_h.jpg

157

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

kidvolt wrote:

Yes, it looks like you are using a solid rod rather than tubes.  Did you decide one over the other or that's just what you used?

Monte, I feel the piano wire for the main rails is far superior. Usually have some "flex" is advantageous. The wire, while it can be bent, has great recoil. So unless you really slam it you should be fine.

The tubing will provide almost no flex, and has no recoil. So if it bends, its going to stay bent!

If you looks at Samson and Chris Walker cars almost all of them employ .047" or .055" wire for the "main" rails!

Zack

158

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

kidvolt wrote:

Zack - rod rather than tube?  Bend issue?

What are we talking about here?

Zack

159

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

Another project "completed" last night. Probably going to put a little hotter motor in it or maybe gear it up. But it handles well for not spending a lot of time finished the tires.

The car is a Sloter Lola t160.

.063" Thick side pans
.032" thick front and rear pans
Samson classics guide tube and WRP guide tongue.
Pod is mounted using 2-56 screws and nylocks (pods is reamed) and it sits on 3mm thick rubber washers.

Nice and smooth.

I didn't spend a lot of time on the body other than making a light interior, which for paper turned out pretty good. I handpainted the driver figure and the mirrors etc because they looked like cheap chrome.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49731372833_f74c534ffd_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49731372073_88dd760553_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49732243377_e7f35e0e34_k.jpg

Zack

160

(221 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

The nibblers I have seen for the dill are usually a round profile. I have a hell of a time cutting anything close to straight with them.

I have a pneumatic one at work as well and its the same for me...

Zack

161

(221 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

How about some tech tools?

Zack

162

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

wb0s wrote:

"I kept thinking throughout that "I need to make Goose proud of this one"."

Mission accomplished Zack!

Thanks Bill!

163

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

The second project I finished up was my U2 Can Am car for the HRW proxy. I had already done the chassis for this car, so it was mostly paint and details.

I tried soaking the body in alcohol, then purple power. Nothing worked. Come to find out none of these techniques usually work on Fly cars after talking with many folks.

So I spent about an hour and sanded everything down using 600g. Then did a nice coat of primer. Sanded to 800g.

The paint is Duplicolor Royal Red acrylic, and I used Testors "wet look" clear. I did wetsand 1500g inbetween the coat and the clear, and I could have done more. But knowing it is a proxy car I called it good.

The clear was a little "hot" for the decals in one spot, but its hardly noticeable. I will do another light coat next time first.

I had to go with a lexan interior to stand a chance in this event, but I did take some time to try and make it more scale. Wood dash, red helmet etc.

The inserts are Alfa 33/3 rear inserts, pained with the same custom Gold as the ferrari since I had some left.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49717024272_76e8da4dcb_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49717024382_bf65e9378d_k.jpg

164

(38 replies, posted in Cars)

While I am still working at this time, I am pretty much doing my days and heading straight home. So I have even more slot car time on my hands. This has pushed me to finish up some cars that I have had laying around for a while.

The first one was this Protoslot car I got out of the Goose collection. I bought it some time ago, but didn't feel I could build a chassis at that time to do it justice. Finally I decided without the pressures of time now would be as good a time as any.

I was lucky, and the kit was complete with the windshield and decals. Although these kits have not been available for some time, so I couldn't save all of the decals.

In the end I put a Flat 6 Slot.it motor in it, because the interior clearance is poor. I will be building a new one, that is hopefully more appealing once my Immense Miniature figures show up.

The wheel inserts are Policar 330. I mixed up some darker gold, using testors gold, brown, and a touch of black to get this color.

The kit did not have the roll bar, so I made one of those out of .055" piano wire.

I enjoyed the build, it is by far the "nicest" car I own at this point. Save for maybe my Racer 250gto. I kept thinking throughout that "I need to make Goose proud of this one".

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49710042221_afc0780cf4_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49710365962_c738aa8021_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49710365192_edb52b4aaa_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49700636833_2d8ccdea98_k.jpg

165

(84 replies, posted in NASTE)

I care about points.

Zack

Cool stuff bill, look forward for racing on the new an improved version. Right when I just started to get the hang of the original!

Zack

167

(2 replies, posted in Cars)

Well I am currently still working, I have been pretty much heading straight home everynight and leaving later in the morning. So I have been making some really solid progress on some projects I have had sitting around.

I picked up this Ninco Corvette from Bill about 4 months ago, with the intend of building a classic 1 car out of it. Well, needless to say I never got around to it.

Last night I pulled it out of the project line and got it pretty much squared away. I am going to change the motor, and may even just put an 18k in it. It handles well and I think can take the power.

-S-can 14k motor. (I might put an 18k in it for the time being)
-Slot.it Axles and 9/25 gearing (probably going to go up if it stays 14k)
-Front axle is blocked up with styrene sheet, then the front wheels trued down as far as possible.
-Front and rear wheels are Pendle Classics
-Rear tires are BOSA Ninco urethanes
-Professor motor Oilite bushings glued in the back, glued in place.
-Samson Clasics guide tube. I really like using these to put upgraded guides in cars where the post hole is too large or irregular shaped. I just ream out the chassis and press one of these in there. Perfect fit and the guide stays nicely positioned.
-Sloting plus wood guide w/slot.it soft braid
-Trimmed .050" off the body posts, installed urethane washers washers. (body lowered around .030")
-Lots of work done around the edges of the chassis and body to get some good float, this car was tight!
-lead

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680609551_3a0e3c3c5f_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680609541_77a440a9b5_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680900792_2978f7bd3d.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49680077183_f9d10948c3_k.jpg

First few laps with the car and it was running smoothly and handling well, just needs more power!

Zack

168

(84 replies, posted in NASTE)

I too, will not be attending unfortunately. One of my co-workers is home sick and we have no way to know if it is the actual virus or not. If he does not develop fever and I show no symptoms I will race at Howies this weekend.

But because of the worry of infecting others who are more of the at-risk demographic, I have decided not to attend tonight until I am sure I have not been exposed by my co-worker.

Zack

169

(84 replies, posted in NASTE)

Over 50 Al wrote:

Odd Thursday is still on. There are usually only 8 or 10 of us. I'm in the high risk demographic but that does not mean I'm going to put my life on hold. I think we should be extra careful keeping our hands and cars clean. Be careful about what we touch. I will have the computer my cars and all surfaces wiped down with alcohol wipes. As long as we don't sneeze or cough on each other we'll be fine.
Race On
              Al


Thanks Al, we should all do our part to combat the spread while in his home. Washing hands regularly is a good option and he has a sink and soap available at all times.

I appreciate you having us over for some fun!

Zack

170

(1 replies, posted in Cars)

I thought I would start a thread over here about this car, many of you have seen it elsewhere. I know Tom and some others are getting going scratch building so I thought it may still be worthwhile.

Body: Fly GTAM Alfa Romeo Giulia

Wheels: Fronts are 15.8x8.2mm Slot.it standard rear wheels.
Rears are 15.8x8.2mm Slot.it Air wheels

Tires: Fronts are coated stock rubber off of a fly kit.
Rears are NSR Supergrip 21x10, narrowed to around 9mm in the rear.

Guide: Scaleauto wood guide, Slot.it soft braid

Motor: NSR Shark 20k. The rules call for a 21.5, but this motor tach'd well and they drive nice. So for the budget's sake I put it in there.

Gears: Slot.it 18mm 34t, Pinion is a NSR 6.75mm 12t. These NSR 6.75 gears can make life easier when doing sidewinders, since they give you just a little more room between the motor and the axle. They also have a much nicer nodule in 12t because of the larger diameter.

Front nose piece is .063" brass.

Rails are .047" wire to try and get some extra flex.

Flexi pans are .063" brass and are mounted using .032" wire so they don't inhibit the chassis flex.

The Guide tonque is mild steel, and the guide mount tube is a Samson Classics Spigot mount tube. These make like really easy when using Scaleauto and Sloting plus guides.

I opted to just solder the motor in, these NSR motors are bullet proof, and this way I didn't have to add a lot of reinforcement to the axle tube, since the motor is now the brace.

After some testing I added a flexi pan to the center of the chassis out of .032" brass. It is mounted on a single pivot in the front and then .032" wire again in the back to keep it from sagging etc. It freely floats to keep the chassis flex in it as intended. Tape was also added to the bottom to control the noise produced by the loose pan.

Initial testing is going good. I am waiting to see it how it performs at Al's before making more changes.

My plan is to coat it red in the end, like proper Alfa!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49667635011_9e6ba42f79_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49667092378_9e501199d8_k.jpg

Some interesting things you can see here. Because the car is so small, I actually used the guide tube to brace the front of the axle tube. Also when soldering with a motor in, it can be a pain with magnetic parts. This big hunk of .093 brass is blocking the mag effect from moving the .032" wire while soldered it in place!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49667917847_8858e2093b_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49667635251_b999772529.jpg

171

(84 replies, posted in NASTE)

Were gonna be fine guys!

Zack

172

(84 replies, posted in NASTE)

I think some extra considerations should be taken to protect people from direct contact.

If people are considerate about washing hands etc. We can race without much risk.

Zack

173

(258 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Rico. I believe Bill had one left last time I was over there. But you may habe tried him already!

Zack

174

(14 replies, posted in Springwater Raceway)

I had a great time. I really like the racing on this track, it has such a good flow to it.

Here are some pics I took of the event. I really need to remember to get more pictures of the people........

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635001878_053ece85a4_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635800682_aaeec5754f_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635800392_7340750f14_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635800512_bc68c3c9c6_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635001418_38a4c768b8_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635800902_1f5e98a533_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49635001703_f820e81c3c_k.jpg

Thanks Bob for hosting!

It was a great race in both classes. I REALLY like those LMP machines!

Zack