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I believe it will be retail ordering straight from Jim Difalco.

If you order one of the Genesis network controllers you will eventually want different networks for the 1/32 cars and the 1/24 cars at Howie's. A higher overall ohm network for 1/32 cars at Al's will work at Howie's, but the overall response and sensitivity is going to be really soft for the higher current 1/24 cars.

Also if you get the DD304 you will probably want to swap out the heat sink for the larger one. If I remember correctly Zack's controller got really hot the first time he used it at Howie's. You might check with Zack for details.

Tom, here's my 2 cents on those controllers you listed. First off Difalcos are my favorite controllers. They're tough! I've seen problems with other controllers, especially if you accidentally hook up backwards. I've only seen one issue with a Difalco.

The Difalco DD268 is the Fanatic model. It features multiple small potentiometers, one for each of the "bands" the controller wiper makes contact with. This controller has almost infinite adjustability. The compromise with this adjustability is the need to manually adjust each potentiometer for your baseline control. Once you have your baseline set you can adjust just like the other controller models using the sensitivity "knob". It can be time consuming setting up your baseline, depending on how particular you are, and the baseline settings may be something you want to change depending on tracks or cars. With this controller a notebook for keeping notes regarding settings might be handy. I have one of these controllers you can look at and try if you'd like before making a decision and purchase.

The DD281 is the top of the line newest Genesis model. The Genesis models use an interchangeable transistor network instead of the individual potentiometers for the wiper bands for the baseline settings. The only downside to this versus the Fanatic is; to change your baseline control settings you need to change out the "network" for a different one. For our racing that would probably mean one network for 1/24, and one network for 1/32. With the Fanatic you would just change each of the 12 or 15 potentiometer settings. The DD281 also comes equipped with a traction control potentiometer and the Pro brake potentiometer. I like the traction control option, but I'm not sure the Pro brake potentiometer is really needed for the racing we do around here. The DD271 is the same controller without traction control. I also have a DD281. It is the controller of mine you've used before.

The DD270 gives you the Genesis controller without the traction control and Pro brake potentiometer (uses the economy pot.). I think one advantage of the Pro brake potentiometer is it is less likely to burn up if you hook up backwards. The DD280 is just the DD270 with traction control added.

The DD304 Stan mentions is basically the DD280 but primarily designed for 1/32 racing. It comes with a network for racing 1/32 cars whereas the 200 series Genesis controllers come with networks for 1/24 racing. I'm sure this controller would work for both 1/32 and 1/24 with a network change. My personal choice was to go with the 200 series controllers for 1/24 because I feel the components are more robust. Most 1/24 scale cars use a lot more current than the 1/32 cars which means more amperage through the circuit.

When in doubt just email Jim Difalco for his advice. He is great about responding to email questions and will be happy to build you the right controller to suit your needs!

Videos from the Early Modified race on February 8, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJvqGvZlIsU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xcwry22F13Y

That's a pretty slick set up!

CLASSIC NASCAR HARD BODY RULES - SPRINGWATER RACEWAY

GENERAL RULES: NW TRUE SCALE SPORTSMAN
BODIES:  1/24 MONOGRAM/REVELL ONLY
GRAND PRIX 84-92
T-BIRD 81-88
OLDSMOBILE 86-92
BUICK REGAL 81-92
MONTE CARLO 84-89
CHEVY LUMINA - ALL

NO BODY MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED. BODY TO BE UNTRIMMED, EXCEPT SIDE SKIRTS AND FRONT VALANCE FOR TRACK CLEARANCE. BODY TO HAVE FRONT AND REAR WINDOWS. QUARTER WINDOWS OPTIONAL.

CHASSIS:  SPORTSMAN CHASSIS RULES. INLINE WITH NO HINGED PANS. RATTLE CHASSIS ONLY.  REAR TRACK TO BE 3.25 INCH MAXIMUM. FRONT TRACK TO BE 3.25 MAXIMUM. AXLE SIZE 1/8. MINIMUM GROUND CLEARANCE IS .055 FRONT AND BACK.

TIRES:  REAR: .900 MINIMUM DIAMETER. FRONT – 7/8 INCH DIAMETER WITH A MINIMUM ½ INCH WIDTH FOAM TIRES. NO CONING OR NARROWING OF THE FRONT TIRES. MUST BE STOCK. COATING FRONT TIRES IS ALLOWED.

MOTORS: PROSLOT-#PS2101, PS2001 and PS2003 OR PARMA #502 SUPER 16D MOTOR ALLOWED.

SPECIAL NOTE: ONE EXTRA BODY WILL BE ALLOWED FOR SPECIAL EVENT RACES. THE BODY MUST BE THE SAME YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL. PAINT SCHEME DOES NOT HAVE TO MATCH. BODY TO BE SUBMITTED AT TECH.

Uh Doc......................your point????

We love your input Tom! We've been doing this so long sometimes we forget what it's like to be "The New Guy"! Keep the input and feedback coming Tom!

=========Bill

Chris, I'm with ya. I'll do a little testing tomorrow just to see where these cars are at performance-wise. I do not have high expectations. I raced one of the Kellisons in Classic Sports Car Div.I for awhile. It was definitely a handful even at 10 volts!

Doc, I am OUT for any additional IROC stuff! I've done it for years and no longer have any taste for it. From a drivers standpoint it's great. From a long time track owner and promoter's standpoint, it SUCKS! You guys are on your own for IROC races.

=============Bill

L to R: Nik Nak, Gearloose, and Stewmeat inspecting his Sportscar entry.

L & R: Nik Nak and Gearloose.

Here's a few photos I was able to snap during and before the race....

Tachometer Ted we called him last night......

An intimidating site at any track!

Zack in action.

L to R: Gearloose, Mitch, and Stewmeat in the hole.