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Rico wrote:
Bill- I took the McLaren motor apart when I got home. There is excessive side to side movement in the end bell bushing which is causing the crown gear to wear. I checked the play on the motor in the green car and it seems excessive to me also. I wonder if there is a quality control issue at play. The Mclaren has been run pretty hard but the HRS car has not been run too much. Any ideas?
Rico
Bill replied:
I think you're probably right on the mark with the quality issue. These motors seem to be pretty cheap to me. They are just a throw away motor so I would imagine quality is not high on the manufacturers list. When you compare them to say a 16D motor the quality difference is obvious. I suppose you could replace the bushings in the motor, but to be honest with you I've never even split the can on one of the 1/32 car motors, so I don't really know first hand how serviceable they are. I was talking to Frank last night about the motors and he said they look a lot like any of the cheap inexpensive toy motors inside. I'd be willing to bet you could find some inexpensive (maybe even battery type) motors you could use as parts donors. It seems a shame these motors are up to $18 and they're not even serviceable, or have the ability for easy parts replacement! --------------------Bill
Monte replied:
It
Bill- Sounds like a cool find and well worth the $10.00 spent. Today AJ and I went to the All British Field Meet to enjoy some classic cars and vintage racing. Alan Smith from 132slotcar.us was there again with a track to race on. Last year AJ won the race and recieved the grand prize of a Scalextric Opel V8. This year the stakes were even higher, a complete Scalextric Sport "Ultimate Endurance" set with two cars. We both entered and I set fast qualifying lap and AJ was third fastest. When it came time to race I completely bombed and failed to transfer to the final round. AJ made it in quite easily and managed to win two heats and second in the other two to win the grand prize for the second year in a row. I think there might be pictures in the near future on the Scalextric USA website.
Rico
Bill- I agree with everything that George states in his post. My Mclaren has dragged on the track since day one, it always has passed tech and I have it on good authority that as long as it passes tech it is ok to run. I am currently running it with shims between the pod and the chassis as I feared that the magnets were possible rubbing and/or shorting. At first, with the racing magnet big side down it was the magnet rubbing, I later turned the magnet over and installed the stock magnet in the front. There was no more contact on the magnet, but the pod was still hitting. I tried sanding it first (it was not flat) but it still rubbed and that is when I decided to try the shims. The shims actually made the car drive better due to less contact with the track and the lap times have come down to an observed 4.1 seconds, among the fastest inline cars. However it still rubs and I can see drag marks on the chassis itself on the area in front and rear of the pod. In my mind this only leaves chassis and/or track flexing as the culprit. There are a couple of spots on the track where there are elevation changes that a fair number of cars, and not just Slot.it cars, tend to scrape as you well know. I can show you what I use as spacers if there is any interest.
Rico
I ran also ran Frank's car and I must say it was way different from what we are running and yet it was challenging and fun. Four of them on the track would definitely be wild and wooly. It was fun to hang the tail out around the curves, easily done, but quite controllable and it had decent power. I also witnessed the running of the Ninco and I can't say I was impressed much. Slow and not much grip.
That's all for now folks.................
If someone wants to spend oodles of money on slot cars: they can and will no matter what the scale is. I have seen $100.00+ HO cars and 1/24 motors for $281.00. Do you have to spend that much money to have a good time? Of course not, but people do and will continue to do so. You and I enjoy tweaking our cars to try to make them better which usually leads to more expense for upgraded parts or whatever. I don't get the idea that Randy does and except for his 300+ car collection, his expense per car is probably less than what you or I might spend. I think we all know that any scale can be raced relatively cheaply or one can spend cubic dollars to race. I guess it just depends what one is trying to do and there is no right or wrong answer.
Rico
Is that the same car you ran last time at BSCC? If it is- way cool.
We can try them against each other at the next race. I have a TVR, Lister and a Scaley Corvette. The TVR and the Lister have silicon tires. I'll see if I can find something for the Vette. It looks like the Fly Vettes are front motor also. Both brands have stock 18K motors and should have similiar speed but I've never compared lap times.
Rico
I still like the Scalextric GT/Touring car idea, which would not exclude the Japanese GT's per se. Are they sidewinder, inline or front mounted motors? George- are the Vipers front motor like the TVR? If they are you could add the Scaley Corvette into the mix as well. I'm pretty sure there are white Viper kits, the TVR has 4-5 liveries but are kind of hard to find, and the Corvette has several examples. The front motor cars are fun to run and handle differently than sidewinders or inlines. (i.e more loose) Depending on speed differential, the Fly Lister Storm & Marcos might also fit in and there are a bunch of versions of those. Front motor might be the way to go.
I think I would have to agree with Randy to a certain degree. 1/32 are made of PLASTIC and I am amazed how tough some of them are. I have seen some tremendous wallops and cars fly airborn clear off the table to the cement below and be put right back on the track. Some cars are more prone to damage to the periphials (mirrors, wings, etc) but the major bodies remain intact and runnable. Granted, I know very little about 1/24 hardbody racing, but I have done some 1/24 Flexi and it certainly is easy to damage them. Maybe a large portion of it has to do with the operator????
Rico
Byron- I checked out a few of the more popular online hobby stores and I don't see any Ninco Japanese Touring cars for sale. Is BSCC thinking of supplying a spec car series (IROC)? I don't know if you've had a chance to check out some of the other posts, but you might want to take a look at the one titled BSCC Poll. I like the idea of a GT/Touring class. What about a class of no particular brand but with a break out time? This would give everyone a chance to run their favorite brand and still level out the any major performance differences and definitely would bring out some more variety instead of the "Ferrari class" that the Slot.it series ended up being. One additional thought, is that some modification should be allowed in the intrest of reliability. For example, allowing the use of aluminum wheels (at least on the rear) and maybe upgraded bushings. Slot.it makes rear axle upgrades for most of the popular brands. This is what I've done to my Scaley Aston resulting in no more repairs to gears and wheels in quite a few laps around the track. Anyway, just some more ideas to kick around.
Don't forget to fuel up before attacking the loops and walls
kidvolt wrote:Randy, how long does it take to complete a pit stop if you go from empty to full?
Monte- I'd guess around 8 seconds or 2 laps. Randy can correct me if I'm wrong.
Rico
I like it George, one of my favorite tracks. How about that space Bryan?
Rico
Any thoughts on brand, type of car, etc? Something with multiple liveries and/or body styles is pretty much a prerequisite. Scalextric Aston/Jag or how about the damage resistant cars Boxster, Audi, Ferrari, Lamborghini. These are cheap and plentiful. The new Fly Flyers may be out in time. Check them out here:
http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/News/ … -a343.html
Just a few ideas...
Strategy????? Pit or be penalized, this is not strategy. The only time I have found any type of strategy useful is on the last round of a heat when you will only need enough fuel to finish.
I think my view on fuel/tire management is fairly well known. As per instructions on fuel management the experienced racers are to monitor their own while those less experienced are to recieve help. However, I am having a hard time standing by idlly while someone may be pitching away a nice heat because they forgot to fuel up their electric racecar. So, I decided to give a reminder to anyone who needed it. I did get distracted a few times and may have missed some, but others stepped in to help out. This may be contrary to the rules but is more along the lines of friendly competition.
I think we are pretty well in agreement. Has anyone actually talked with Randy about this or is this his proposal? I have heard him mention possibly going to non mag, but nothing definite. My choice would be some type of touring/GT car, different from the Lemans and Nascar that we have been running.
Rico
I have been doing a fair amount of reading on other forums and it appears that most people that run non mag cars do so on wood routed tracks. There are a fair number that run on RTR (plastic) track but they usually paint/coat the track surface for more traction which I don't think Randy is willing to do. It is my opinion that high speed non mag cars would be too slippery on stock (unpainted) track. I'm afraid that going from blistering fast Slot.it cars to low voltage non mag might short circuit my we little brain. Anyone for some sort of transitional step: mildly modified stock mag cars? That way the transition will not be so drastic.
Rico
That's because it is. He saw the one posted on that link I sent you (Under World Tracks) and stated that it didn't look right. I think his is better than the one posted, but I might be kind of bias. I guess now that his is posted here we can let the rest of you decide which is better, if you choose to.
Rico
Buy him track.... He still owes me for the last car and I can't afford any more track for myself.
DAD aka Rico
Bill- Here is the link for the track design I was telling you about: http://ux5490.us/ You can go to tracks by either width or length and select what your dimension are and check out the layouts. I liked several of them.
Rico
Bill- My roll bar was completely destroyed and lost last night. I was thinking about copying your bar and was wondering how you attached it to the body?
Thanks
Rico
I agree on the endurance racing, it provides a certain element of realism and the opportunity to change drivers etc. I also agree that a some peoples opinions seem to be valued more than others, but that is always the way lfe seems to work out. Still, change has to start somewhere...
Rico
Actually, in days gone by you could change to another drivers car at Indianapolis, LeMans and maybe other series as well. However, I believe the practice has long since been discontinued.....
I believe the rules could be tweaked some but they are never going to get changed by the posts here only by voicing concerns to the group at the races or at a special meeting like we had before. I wonder just how many people really want fuel and tire management? These races are essentially sprint races where in 1:1 racing if you stop in the middle of a sprint race, you are going to lose. F1 cars can go over 40 laps depending on the track before pitting. The same applies to Nascar. Racing slot cars is not just like 1:1 racing and no matter how hard one tries it will never be the same. 1:1 race cars only stop by necessity not because they want to, so why do we feel this is needed, if we do not have too?
Rico
Bill- I might be out of line, but you seem to be taking my comment on aesthetics as speaking for the entire club, I do not speak for the club, just myself and I stated so in the post. If you haven't noticed, my cars always have the wings and for that matter, even the mirrors, in place when I show up to race. I sometimes even polish the paint so they look nicer. At the last race the wing on the McLaren was damaged during practice and I repaired it for the race and then it got broken further during the race. I now have a broken wing I cannot replace except with an ugly black tear proof one. After the race was over the rear wing on my Thetford Lola was destroyed beyond repair and once again it is not replaceable. The way I interpreted the rule on wings is that the club was trying to protect people from having irreplaceable parts from being broken on their cars. I guess I should have raced with a tear proof wing and changed back to the correct wing when not racing. I am not a fan ot the fuel and tire management systems and I let my feelings get the better of me and I left a race because of it. After cooling off, I came to the conclusion that I am not hurting anyone but myself by not racing. If you truly want to find fault with something then you probably will. When you state that a boken part must be repaired for the next race do you mean the next event or the next heat race? 90 seconds between heats is not much time to effect a repair, it is barely enough time to switch lanes, stickers and driving stations. I agree with Monte that cosmetic damage has little effect on the outcome of a race and should be left alone. I also agree with you that mechanical failures should be fixed before continuing thus necessitating the need for a back up car or a loss of laps just like in real racing.
Once again just my opinions....
Rico
Posts found: 1,401 to 1,425 of 1,431