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The NASTE Forum → Posts by howie
PS80001 continues. I cut the body down to 1.875 as the rules allow for 1/24th. cars. This body was warped toward the rear and I grabbed it and twisted in the opposite direction and I wasn't shy about it as it was quite the twist! I turned the front tires down to .982", down from 1.085". Rules say you can take them down to .938"/15/16" I take a finger nail file made with sand paper to cone the tires.
I am enjoying this build. Next installment will be turning the front wheels down and coning them.
I should let people know Bill found this chassis, and I couldn't wait to get my hands on one! I have been looking for a chassis to replace the Scholer as we aren't sure we will be able to get them any more as Professor Motor has been out of stock on the one we use most for almost a year.
No more ugly soldering showing up!!
Finished axle. A nice looking insert will hide this bad soldering job!
Project 800001 continues. I like to make independent rolling front wheels. Step one is to cut the axle to proper length. Find a washer that is suitable. Install the wheel on the axle backwards and set the washer on the wheel as solder won't stick to aluminum, solder the washer to the axle. Remove the set screw in the wheel that is going to ride against the washer. Install the axle on the chassis and tighten the set screw in the wheel on the opposite end of the washer. The soldering job is not pretty, but install an insert and out of sight it goes!
SP800001 continues. Installing the motor. This is the way I mounted this motor with the gear toward the end of the shaft so as to keep the 54t gear from hitting the motor mount. The motor mount is from Professor Motor and they are out of stock, however Beau has another similar mount. The motor is at the correct angle to clear the right rear tire and stay clear of the rattle pan. The seven tooth gear is not quite meshed close enough so if I were to use it, I would lengthen the mounting groove in the mount or go to an 8t. pinion. If you go to a 52 tooth gear which is popular, you may have to drill another hole in the chassis to make it work, that is what Beau did. You may have noticed that this is not an open S16D, but the mounting is the same.
Well happy 60th. young man!!
Sorry guys, I just can't get into the Manta Ray spirit, although I do like the wheels, beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder. I do like the Car Craft mag. with the nice Ford pickup on the cover. I also like the Barracuda kit also.
I wish you had the room for that track too Bill. If you bought it and stored it in monthly fee storage place you could convince Dianne you REALLY need a place for a track to avoid the monthly fee!
Small flairs are in order, I will add them and primer the car when done. The body has yet to be cut down. As I am a Pontiac guy when it comes to NASCAR, this is the first Chevy I have ever built for slot racing! In any class! I think it is going to turn out nice and run well in the Nationwide series. Of course we haven't raced a stainless steel chassis yet!
I want to take time to thank Bill for down loading all these pictures.
The chassis set up with axles, tires etc.
SP800001 project continues. Installed the axles, tires etc. Set the tracking, front to the max of 3.170" and rear to the max of 3.190". As you will see in the pictures, this car is going to need small flairs. I use brass tubing for spacers with an ID of .095" or so and an OD of .125".
Money wise the parts in this installment are as follows: axles $2.25 each X 2 = $4.50. Front tires $8.00. Rear tires $10.40. Brass bushings for the front axle $1.50. Gear $3.50. Rear axle bearings $9.60.
I guess I can only submit one picture per post, so here is the Monte Carlo.
SP800001 continues. I went ahead and bolted the chassis together as the directions are good and no sense in taking pictures of the process. I will say that during the building that the nuts and bolts be at least snugged up or you may be picking them up off the floor as I did because they will unscrew themselves!
I decided to make a Nationwide NASCAR out of this chassis as the TA2 would require me to narrow the pans and I wanted to get a car going asap and that would be just an extra step.
The NASCAR I am using is a Dale Eearnhardt Jr. 2002 Chev. Monte Carlo.
I am ordering another chassis to do the TA2 using a snap kit of the 2015 Mustang.
SP800001 continues. The axle holes need to be ground out about .007" bigger diameter to make the reducer bushings fit so you can use 3/32nd. axles. Doesn't take very long with a Dremel tool. I made these a tight fit and had to squeeze them in with a pair of needle nose pliers. I won't have to solder them in this time!
Yes that is a nice mount, but not for the D cans. I never bothered to look to see if Slot Plus has a mount for the D motors. I have a mount that I ordered from Professor Motor a while back. It is a Plafit #PL1078P and it will fit, I wish I had ordered about 10 of them as Professor Motor is out of stock and has been for quite a while. I also have a mount that Beau gave me that will also fit, however it only has the bottom screw hole for mounting it to the motor. I guess that will work if a person was to make sure the motor is taped or somehow fixed to the chassis.
The SP80001 project. First problem is the motor mount is not good for a D can motor. I have another mount that will work.
I am going to do a step by step chassis building session of the Slot plus chassis. here as I am doing one on the NWTS site.
This is the package the chassis comes in. All the screws, nuts, etc. come in a little zip lock bag.
Unfortunately yes, I just checked that out last night. I think it will be a little harder with stainless, but it doesn't look like too much has to be reamed.
I needed to replace a Scholer axle bracket so I ordered an axle bracket from Professor Motor, it is a Motor Modern #11332 and the reducer bushings fit right in.
I just looked on the back of the Sloting Plus package and it says: made in Spain.
You guessed right Rico.
I mocked up a chassis today, everything looks good to go except the motor bracket is not for any motor as stated on Professor Motor. If you want to run a 16D you will have to modify this one or build one, not a great big deal.
I haven't soldered on stainless steel yet, we will see how that goes.
I received the Sloting Plus chassis today. They are un-assembled, however they come in a much better package and the directions are in English on one side and Spanish on the other.
I just ordered 5 of these chassis today. I'll let you know when they get here if they are assembled or not. That would be nice if they were.
In order to make it easier to race and plan for the races at Rapid Raceway, I have made a change in the line up.
We will still race the TA2 for the first half of the season for points, the class to be run for the second race of the night will be the Sportsman rather than run through all the remaining classes. Then the second half we will run the Trans-Am for points and the second class will be the Early Modified. The race dates and time will be the same.
I may have special races for the classes left out this season: GT-1, NASCAR, Porsche 962, so don't throw them in the scrap heap!
That was a very good day of racing, I had fun and all the cars are really nice and detailed to the 9's. It was my pleasure to be a able to host this race. Thanks Chris for loaning me the car.
Still no Scholers and I think it is time to choose another chassis that is comparable to the Scholer and is close to the price as possible.
Due to the Scholer situation, I have made the Indy class an open chassis. Build or buy. I am really hoping to get our last class on the books for next season (2016).
We had our first Rapid 500 and raced the Sprint Cup and the Nationwide together and scored separate. The scoring really was a piece of cake!
The NASTE Forum → Posts by howie
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