SP800001. I set the flairs as close to the tires as possible knowing the body will move up and down while on the track.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8008.jpg

SP800001 continues. I set the body up on the chassis and used a marking pen to mark where I needed to make more room in the rear wheel wells, the front wheel wells did not need any material taken away. I use a sheet of .030" plastic to make the flairs. Using a pair of scissors I cut about 1/4" wide and long enough to fill the wheel wells. I hold the flairs while I Super Glue them to the body. I like Super Glue as it sets up fast, I leave a small lip on the inside of the wheel wells for the glue to stick to and only glue the inside, well unless you accidentally get glue on your fingers and then your fingers stick to the body! I will have to do more sanding of the body than I planned on! I use Goop over the Super Glue as a final step.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8006.jpg

SP800001. I use Automotive Goop to hold the pins to the body. I put the Goop on the pins, stretch the body over making sure the wheels line up with the wheel wells and let it set for a day at least. I need to do this in the shop as my wife will get an immediate head ache if I do it in the house!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP824.jpg

SP800001. I use double stick tape to hold the pins in place during mounting of the body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP823.jpg

SP800001. Oops! I took too much off the body according to my body height contraption. I will make up for it when I mount the body using a thin piece of double stick tape under the body as it is in the final stages of mounting.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP822.jpg

SP800001 continues. Mounting the body. I do not want anything to move, so I tape the rattle pan down and using a screw I screw the chassis down to the board.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP821.jpg

Now ready to mount the body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP820.jpg

I cut the mounting plate, drilled the holes and counter sunk them and mounted the plate to the chassis. The chassis plate is slotted so the plate can move forward or backward, I set it in the middle so it can go either way if need be after mounting body.

I have to cut this much off the plate to make it fit properly as this chassis is as narrow as it will go so it can fit the Chevy body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP819.jpg

This is the only pieces I will use from this kit as the bolts supplied were not counter sunk.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP818.jpg

SP800001 continues. Getting set up to mount the body. This is the kit I will use. Add $4.25 to the bill, Professor Motor has this kit.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP817.jpg

This is how the body fits over the chassis with the front tires cut down and the rear wells ground out. The wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs, but I want to mount the body first.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP816.jpg

SP80001. This is how the body sat before cutting the front tires down and grinding the rear wheel wells out. The chassis is set at .055" as the rules allow.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP815.jpg

SP800001. After coning. I left .250" or 1/4" flat surface as the rules state. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP814.jpg

PS80001 continues. I cut the body down to 1.875 as the rules allow for 1/24th. cars. This body was warped toward the rear and I grabbed it and twisted in the opposite direction and I wasn't shy about it as it was quite the twist! I turned the front tires down to .982", down from 1.085". Rules say you can take them down to .938"/15/16"  I take a finger nail file made with sand paper to cone the tires.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP813.jpg

I am enjoying this build. Next installment will be turning the front wheels down and coning them.
I should let people know Bill found this chassis, and I couldn't wait to get my hands on one! I have been looking for a chassis to replace the Scholer as we aren't sure we will be able to get them any more as Professor Motor has been out of stock on the one we use most for almost a year.

No more ugly soldering showing up!!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP812.jpg

Finished axle.  A nice looking insert will hide this bad soldering job!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP811.jpg

Project 800001 continues. I like to make independent rolling front wheels. Step one is to cut the axle to proper length. Find a washer that is suitable. Install the wheel on the axle backwards and set the washer on the wheel as solder won't stick to aluminum, solder the washer to the axle. Remove the set screw in the wheel that is going to ride against the washer. Install the axle on the chassis and tighten the set screw in the wheel on the opposite end of the washer. The soldering job is not pretty, but install an insert and out of sight it goes!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP810.jpg

SP800001 continues. Installing the motor. This is the way I mounted this motor with the gear toward the end of the shaft so as to keep the 54t gear from hitting the motor mount. The motor mount is from Professor Motor and they are out of stock, however Beau has another similar mount. The motor is at the correct angle to clear the right rear tire and stay clear of the rattle pan. The seven tooth gear is not quite meshed close enough so if I were to use it, I would lengthen the mounting groove in the mount or go to an 8t. pinion. If you go to a 52 tooth gear which is popular, you may have to drill another hole in the chassis to make it work, that is what Beau did. You may have noticed that this is not an open S16D, but the mounting is the same.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP809.jpg

571

(137 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Well happy 60th. young man!!
Sorry guys, I just can't get into the Manta Ray spirit, although I do like the wheels, beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder. I do like the Car Craft mag. with the nice Ford pickup on the cover. I also like the Barracuda kit also.
I wish you had the room for that track too Bill. If you bought it and stored it in monthly fee storage place you could convince Dianne you REALLY need a place for a track to avoid the monthly fee!

Small flairs are in order, I will add them and primer the car when done. The body has yet to be cut down. As I am a Pontiac guy when it comes to NASCAR, this is the first Chevy I have ever built for slot racing! In any class! I think it is going to turn out nice and run well in the Nationwide series. Of course we haven't raced a stainless steel chassis yet!
I want to take time to thank Bill  for down loading all these pictures.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP808.jpg

The chassis set up with axles, tires etc.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP807.jpg

SP800001 project continues. Installed the axles, tires etc. Set the tracking, front to the max of 3.170" and rear to the max of 3.190". As you will see in the pictures, this car is going to need small flairs. I use brass tubing for spacers with an ID of .095" or so and an OD of .125".
Money wise the parts in this installment are as follows: axles $2.25 each X 2 = $4.50. Front tires  $8.00. Rear tires  $10.40. Brass bushings for the front axle  $1.50. Gear  $3.50. Rear axle bearings  $9.60.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP806.jpg

I guess I can only submit one picture per post, so here is the Monte Carlo.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8p05.jpg