Re: New Chassis Available for Rapid Raceway Classes
Finished axle. A nice looking insert will hide this bad soldering job!
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The NASTE Forum → Rapid Raceway → New Chassis Available for Rapid Raceway Classes
Finished axle. A nice looking insert will hide this bad soldering job!
No more ugly soldering showing up!!
Howie, Thanks a lot for posting this build up. It really helps!
I am enjoying this build. Next installment will be turning the front wheels down and coning them.
I should let people know Bill found this chassis, and I couldn't wait to get my hands on one! I have been looking for a chassis to replace the Scholer as we aren't sure we will be able to get them any more as Professor Motor has been out of stock on the one we use most for almost a year.
PS80001 continues. I cut the body down to 1.875 as the rules allow for 1/24th. cars. This body was warped toward the rear and I grabbed it and twisted in the opposite direction and I wasn't shy about it as it was quite the twist! I turned the front tires down to .982", down from 1.085". Rules say you can take them down to .938"/15/16" I take a finger nail file made with sand paper to cone the tires.
SP800001. After coning. I left .250" or 1/4" flat surface as the rules state. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.
SP80001. This is how the body sat before cutting the front tires down and grinding the rear wheel wells out. The chassis is set at .055" as the rules allow.
This is how the body fits over the chassis with the front tires cut down and the rear wells ground out. The wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs, but I want to mount the body first.
SP800001 continues. Getting set up to mount the body. This is the kit I will use. Add $4.25 to the bill, Professor Motor has this kit.
This is the only pieces I will use from this kit as the bolts supplied were not counter sunk.
I have to cut this much off the plate to make it fit properly as this chassis is as narrow as it will go so it can fit the Chevy body.
I cut the mounting plate, drilled the holes and counter sunk them and mounted the plate to the chassis. The chassis plate is slotted so the plate can move forward or backward, I set it in the middle so it can go either way if need be after mounting body.
Now ready to mount the body.
SP800001 continues. Mounting the body. I do not want anything to move, so I tape the rattle pan down and using a screw I screw the chassis down to the board.
SP800001. Oops! I took too much off the body according to my body height contraption. I will make up for it when I mount the body using a thin piece of double stick tape under the body as it is in the final stages of mounting.
SP800001. I use double stick tape to hold the pins in place during mounting of the body.
SP800001. I use Automotive Goop to hold the pins to the body. I put the Goop on the pins, stretch the body over making sure the wheels line up with the wheel wells and let it set for a day at least. I need to do this in the shop as my wife will get an immediate head ache if I do it in the house!
SP800001 continues. I set the body up on the chassis and used a marking pen to mark where I needed to make more room in the rear wheel wells, the front wheel wells did not need any material taken away. I use a sheet of .030" plastic to make the flairs. Using a pair of scissors I cut about 1/4" wide and long enough to fill the wheel wells. I hold the flairs while I Super Glue them to the body. I like Super Glue as it sets up fast, I leave a small lip on the inside of the wheel wells for the glue to stick to and only glue the inside, well unless you accidentally get glue on your fingers and then your fingers stick to the body! I will have to do more sanding of the body than I planned on! I use Goop over the Super Glue as a final step.
SP800001. I set the flairs as close to the tires as possible knowing the body will move up and down while on the track.
SP800001. Back out to the shop to add the Goop. The body will have to set a day or so.
SP800001 continues. Now the fun part. Make sure the tracking is right on before continuing. I marked the flairs with a Sharpie on the inside and using a disc on a Dremel I rough cut them. Then I added the "green stuff" ( back in the day there was a green body putty for 1 to 1 cars called Green Stuff ). I used plenty as there is more at the hobby shop and I want these flairs to blend well with the body. This green putty is supposed to be stronger than normal hobby putty. I have it on my TA-2 Mustang and so far it hasn't cracked but I didn't put it on as thick as on this body. The putty smells strong too but I can do this in the hobby room as the wife is gone for the day. I'll take it to the shop to dry for a day. The picture is marking the inside of the flairs for cutting.
I have noticed flairs on 1 to 1 NASCAR's. So we are not really making something up, we are just exploiting the situation!
What is left after cutting.
Don't be shy about using plenty of putty!
After centering the chassis ( the chassis does move from side to side somewhat ) this is how much tire will show.
Are these not flairs on a 1 to 1 NASCAR?
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