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The NASTE Forum → Posts by wb0s
Yup, I do have SOME!!! Didn't actually realize how many!
My plan is to cut the width down, and basically use the Womp chassis as a center section. It will make up the motor, rear axle, and guide flag mount. I will use brass side pans that the body will mount to. The pans will be mounted to the center section "rattle" style, similar to the Econo chassis. ------------------Bill
I picked up a couple of the Revell 1/32 Snap Tite kits today, one Mustang and one Camaro. The Camaro body is significantly wider between the rocker panels. I think I will use the Camaro for the prototype. In an effort to keep the cost down on these IROC cars, I'm going to build the prototype chassis around a used Parma Womp chassis. This will make a big diffenence in the final cost of the cars since I have a box full of used Womp chassis! This chassis' motor mount will accept many different motors (i.e. 16D, Falcon, Cheetah, Plafit, and the SCX motors). If it doesn't work out I'll just scrap it and start over............. ----------------------Bill
The discussions regarding the NASTE 2010 season are still going on. At the NASTE Thursday at Howie's Terry Abbott told us about an idea he had for the upcoming season. Terry suggested we scratchbuild some 1/32 chassis for the Revell 1/32 Snap Tite series of model cars. The cars design needs to be such that they will perform well on the 1/32 sectional plastic tracks as non-magnetic cars, and perform equally as well on the 1/24 wood routed tracks throughout our area. I really like this idea! It would enable us to have an IROC season without having to maintain a large stable of cars. We would only need four cars plus a couple spares to race on all the 1/24th and 1/32nd tracks with all the various clubs. After testing at Howie's I'm convinced we can put together some 1/32 cars that will work on both types of tracks. In addition to the six or so 1/32 cars, we would only need approximately six HO cars to cover that scale. This plan would enable us to keep the NASTE IROC style series which seems to be so popular.
I have started researching parts costs for building the 1/32 cars. The model kits used for the bodies sell for $3.99 at Fred Meyers. I am leaning towards the use of the SCX 42B motors. They are fast enough, and the motors are srviceable and rebuildable. The SCX motors retail for $9.99. The SCX motors will also bolt into a standard 16D or Falcon type motor bracket. I am thinking of using a guide flag mount that will accept the Slot.It guide flags that secure by a screw. With this type of guide flag mount we could easily change Slot.It guide flags between the standard and wood track types (if needed) depending on where we are racing. The same could be true for the rear tire setups. We could alternate between silicones, rubber, or urethane depending on track surface.
My plan right now is to put together a prototype to test. I'll keep you all posted...... --------------------------Bill
You know, I think I like that!!!! Rottin' Rico..............has a nice ring to it!
Today is was Sand-packer...............
I hate stupid nicknames!!!! --------------------Bill
Oh Rico, you are BAD!!!!......Unfortunately for the rest of us your "aero" car is BADDER!!!!!
And for the rest of you.......YES, Rico's "aero" car kicked our butts but good!!!! -------------------Bill
Thanks for the info Mike. Interesting stuff! I didn't realize the snow track sections were actually that different from the regular pieces. ------------------------Bill
Howie, Thanks for opening your track for us last night! I had a great time!!!
For those of you who couldn't make it, we held NASTE Thursday at Howie's Rapid Raceway last night. We did some testing with a variety of 1/32 "model" race cars to se how they would run on the 1/24 wood routed track. I must say I was surprised at how well most of the cars ran even "box" stock! Out of the box I would have to say the Slot.It cars seemed to be the best. However Monte's Ninco McLaren also worked extremely well!
I tested my SCX NASCARs I had set up for the BSCC Summer Series at Marshall Field. On Marshall Field's Scalextric Sport Track my COT NASCAR was not as good as my older style "aero" NASCAR. However on the wood routed non-magnetic track, my COT car was clearly faster and cornered much better!
Howie, Beau, and John Gill also had some of the GT1 Schoeler chassised cars on hand. This new GT1 class looks like it will be quite popular. The cars are powered by Falcon 7 motors and they're quite fast! The handling of the hard bodied cars is also much better than you would expect! These things flat fly!!!!
Terry Abbott came up with a great suggestion for an IROC class for NASTE's upcoming season! More on that soon!!!! ------Bill
Hey Jeff, I'm not much into the current state of the art HO stuff, but I run some T-Jets and Magna-Tractions from time to time. I currently have a 3 lane routed 4'x8' HO track. It has steel wire imbedded in the track surface, under the copper tape I used for contact. As far as plastic sectional track I like the latest Tomy A/FX track. I used to have LOTs of old Thunderjet track. I used it to build a really big 8 lane track, which I sold. The Tomy A/FX track has much smoother joints when assembled, far better than the old Aurora A/FX track! -------------------Bill
Hey Mike, I reviewed the photos...short memory on my part! Are you still running on the second layout pictured?
I'd like to hear more about your lift system for your track! ------------------------Thanks! -------------Bill
Mike, How about some pictures?????? -----------------Bill
John, You have my attention!!!!......Can't hardly wait until the next enduro!!! ---------------Bill
Hey Monte, Had a lot of fun last NASTE Thursday!!! Thanks for the pizza, sure tasted good!!
I like the new track a lot!! Looking forward to the first race on it!!!!
And nice legs!!!! -----------------------Bill
Good question about the tires George!!!
In that case I'll definately want the Pro wheels on the rear!!! ------------------------Bill
My question is since this is a SCX Sanctioned event, open to anyone not just BSCC racers, is it proper to alter the rules for any one track or club? Although I see your point George, and I agree with your reasoning, it doesn't seem right to me for BSCC to change the rules for a race that is not technically theirs? After all this is a "qualifying" race for a larger event that will allow and include the Pro cars. Even if the top finishers in the qualifyer don't make the trip to the main event, the premise is they would be racing against any car that would be legal under the established rules, including the Pro cars or those equipped with Pro parts. I also have to believe that part of the incentive for SCX to sponsor an event like this is to expose slot racers to their higher end "race quality" cars and their higher quality parts that are designed to improve performance. Let's face it, sponsorship on this level is an effective marketing tool! ----------------Bill
Way cool!!!!.................although I do feel funny racing without bovine......... ---------------Bill
Cool photos Rico!!!!................where's the livestock?????? ----------------------Bill
I liked the cars George. They were fast, and the handling was good. I liked the Racer Ferrari 250LMs better, but they cost 3 times as much!!! Rugged......well we didn't break any! In fact they did not seem to have any issues that I noticed. As far as an IROC class one thing I always consider is cost. I think we could come up with something that handles just as well for less money. I think there are many Slot.It cars that would handle just as well for $20 to $25 less per car. --------------------Bill
Me 2..... ------------Bill
All right George!!!! You ARE da MAN!!!..............THAT is definately an enduro!!!!.............probably too tough for me!!!! -------------------Bill
Now That's an ENDURO! ------------------Bill
Jack - There is more weight in the rear than it looks like. That pocket where the original magnet sat is pretty deep, so you're only seeing the length & width dimesion of the lead. I didn't weigh the pieces of lead individually, but you maybe right. There maybe more total lead weight in the front than in the rear. I weigh the front and rear of the car separately to check bias. On this car the front weighed 2 grams less than the back (weighed with only the 2 front wheels on the scale, and then the 2 rear wheels on the scale, with the car on a level plane). ------------------Bill
I used "GOOP" to glue the lead weights in place (I don't like them coming loose and moving around). Here's the location of the lead weight pieces in the front portion of the chassis:
I soldered the motor connectors (chicken legs) to the copper contact strips on the chassis. To do this without melting the chassis, first I remove the motor and pod assembly from the chassis. I then apply a small amount of solder to the bottom sides of the chicken legs. Then I apply a small amount of solder to the copper contact strips where the chicken legs will make contact with the copper strips. Allow a little cooling time for both pieces. I re-install the motor and pod assembly into the chassis. Now with solder already applied to the motor chicken legs and the copper strips, all I have to do is place the tip of my soldering iron on the top sides of the chicken legs for a second or two to melt the solder on both pieces together. The amount of tension on the chicken legs when you install the motor/pod assembly determins how much movement you'll have in your pod (i.e. the further the chicken legs hang down below the bottom of the motor, the stiffer your pod movement will be).
Here's the weight I have in the rear of the car. I basically cut small strips of lead and filled the cavity for the traction magnet. Again I made sure it wouldn't go anywhere by "GOOP"ing it in place:
This is how I like the guide flag braid to lay:
This is a trick I learned from Monte. I used a small "O" ring to lock my guide flag in place eliminating the spring action. You can get these type of "O" rings at Ace Hardware stores:
I trued my front tires to get them round, and to get the frontend to sit where it should. This allows the guide flag to sit deep in the slot:
Last but not least, I use slightly longer screws to secure the body to the chassis (also available at Ace Hardware). This allows you to leave the body mounting screws a little loose without them falling out:
There you have. Nothing secret, just a little careful preparation and attention to detail. ------------------------Bill
Jack - Here's the set up on the car I raced Tuesday night:
The car weighs in at 105 grams on Randy's Magnet Marshal scale. This is the top side of the chassis:
Three cut pieces laying on the floor already!!!!................ ---------------Bill
The BullRing is official gone from TooBad Motorplex in Fairview. By now I believe it is back in Roseburg.
My flag is at half mast...
A moment of silence................................. -----------------------Bill
The NASTE Forum → Posts by wb0s
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