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I have 2 brand new Ford Fusion bodies and set of decals ...... probably won't use. $15 each if interested.

Is that body on the CA list?  Looks similar to a 962 to me. What's the weight?  Is it full width 3.25"? I might have to get one ... to catch you if I can. 

Congrats to Gearloose for the Nascar win!!!!!  I thought I heard the comment this is his first Nascar win on that track. Not bad for an 84 year old who is just starting to reach his full potential.

This looks like a well thought out improved version. 3/32 bearings are 1/4" OD I believe without looking. Using durable steel in the critical areas is a big plus. Brass provides good weight but usually needs wire re-enforcement. Good job on trying to provide a production kit that doesn't need a lot of mods!

I have never ran my CanAm cars at Howie's ... to see how they go. I know they run strong on Bostick's track. I am modifying another old JK flexi similar to what you ran at Bill's ... to see how it runs at Rapid. I'll be running a more scale McLaren M7 I think with a legal driver head thanks to Bill. Ted and I like close racing ... so we'll see we wind up with. Might have to use the custom builts ... now that you have one. 

On light weight cars,  leaning forces in the corners are minimal. That is why most all the faster race classes run on a Tri-Pod setup with no touching and rolling front tires. It is true they do lightly drag either the front bumper guards or the leading edge of the body in the turns and can be proved by the black scum accumulation on those parts.

I adjust the tension on my front axle using a Thorp fiddle stick (replica) for 3 oz. No accumulation of black scum on the bottom proves the rubber bands are doing the job. On a higher bank tho with high speeds, the front end might touch but only due to compression. Been doing rubber band suspension cars now (on scratch builds)  for about 35 years.

The Porsche 962 body only weighs in at 23 grams ... minus driver/interior. A typical Nascar body and interior weighs in at 36 grams. Anyway, due to the lighter weight and lower profile,  this 962 class ought to be a good handling and faster class of car. Should be a lot of fun .... on any track.

Hi Bill,  I found this Inslot raceway thread with all the pictures of potential racers. I am thinking of heading down to Oregon either tomorrow the 19th .... or Friday the 26th,  to make a race in Keizer on a Saturday in July.  I was wondering if there is a chance for Ted and I to stop by your track for a quick test of some new race cars? Maybe there are still too many packages laying on the track surface? Would stop by only if not inconvenient.

I have not decided (as yet) what Friday to head down that way .... and not even positive I will due to the distance. There's a part of me that wants to tho.

DC

Sorry Howie,  from now on you can bet I will buy the correct tires for the class in plenty of time before the race .... so I don't get stuck having to improvise. If I had the correct fronts ... you can bet they would be on the car.

You broke a 1/8" size front axle? Never saw one of those break. Sometimes bend if not a full hardened drill blank. I escaped car carnage this race ... but built the chassis rails with 3/32" wire to turn it into a tank if things get ugly.

My Weller 80 watt soldering iron has been acting up lately. The tip usually fits fairly snugly in the ceramic holder but when I heated it up the last time,  it was stuck in the holder and would not come out. Apparently a corrosion buildup. So while hot I shot WD40 in there to hopefully break up the corrosion then took pliers to the heating element and twisted gently at first .... then aggressively to get some results. Instead of coming loose, I managed to twist the ceramic holder out of the coiled wire holder.  I tapped lightly on it a hundred times and the round ceramic insulator cracked into 2 parts but I finally got the iron free!  After things cooled off I wire brushed the coiled wire and attempted to insert the ceramic pieces back in the coil. It worked and held together fine.

Then I heated up the iron again and ran the jaws of the pliers gently around the base of the iron tip to remove slag that has built up.  Sometimes a wire brush will do the job ... but not this time. Time now to recondition the tip by bathing it with new solder and squeezing several drops from a small syringe of soldering acid to activate the re-coating procedure.  The tip is looking good again and getting very hot ... but some joints require a heat gun blast first to get brass plate and wire hot before attempting to solder.

Note to self .... don't leave the iron on for long periods ... and recondition the tip often with solder and acid bathing!