Re: Inslot's Checkered Flag Raceway - Renovation
My goodness, this has certainly become the major task. At least it's in good hands.
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The NASTE Forum → InSlot's Checkered Flag Raceway → Inslot's Checkered Flag Raceway - Renovation
My goodness, this has certainly become the major task. At least it's in good hands.
My goodness, this has certainly become the major task. At least it's in good hands.
it sure has, but it will be trlb free when all done...
Today I finished wiring up the controller hook-ups at each driver's station. This was my view for most of the morning. One improvement today over Tuesday, I did not fall asleep on my creeper today!
I've been kinda waffling back and forth over re-braiding the entire track or just the new section. After performing some closer inspections today I've decided to bite the bullet and re-braid the entire track. A lot of the existing braid is still good but, the braid adhesive is so old, and has been subjected to so many chemicals in the form of cleaning solvent and tire compound, the adhesive has pretty much lost its adhesive qualities. It many spots it is just kind of an icky goo under the braid, and in other spots it is a crispy, brittle, thin coating. After much research I am going to perform a light skim cut of the braid recess using my special bit for that task. I have been asking a professional track builder for suggestions all during this renovation process and he recommends a skim cut, just a couple thousandths or so to get down to clean wood for the new braid. I can use my router to do this everywhere but under the overpass. I will have to clean the recesses in that area by hand as best I can. Using the router will be much quicker than trying to clean the recess by hand! After the skim cut I will have to re-paint the braid recess, but I still think it will be a better and quicker process than just trying to clean the recess.
So here's an extra credit question: What will these two parts be used for? (A hint: I will need a total of 6 of these).
Power taps?
NICE RICO!
YES! These are to be used for common connection points of the negative contact braids for each lane at each power tap. One hole on each end for mounting points to the underside of the tabletop, four tinned holes for braid connection points, one tinned hole for a jumper wire to the controller hook-up for brakes, and one ear for connection to the main ground that runs the length of the tabletop. This is all just further development of a track wiring system Hugh Ellsworth designed in the early 1980s.
well I was going say they were a poor try at making a flute...
They just might work as a flute, but they're kinda small..........
So today I quit waffling on whether or not to replace ALL the track braid. It's ALL gone!
I put in a good 7 hours today! That's like a full week of work for me! My original plan for the day was to start rerouting the braid recess with just a skim cut to prepare it for new paint and then new braid. To be honest it went so fast I finished pulling off all the old braid and rerouting the braid recesses on the entire track! The skim cut really was the way to go. I know from experience I would have spent at least a week trying to hand scrape and clean the recesses in preparation for gluing down the new braid, and the final outcome would not have been nearly as good. I do still have one area of concern, the underpass. My router will not fit under the banked overpass, and Kirk Smith already warned me about trying to remove the bank or any portion of it. I have an idea that I will research tomorrow.
Here's some more things I learned today:
1. Don't use staples on anything that may have to come off in the future. It's a B removing staples from wood!
2. When routing braid recesses on a finished track use a router with a small diameter base. The smaller diameter base will keep the recess more consistent through portions of the track that are not perfectly level.
3. Don't ever build an overpass with less than 12 inches of clearance!
Here's why cleaning up the braid recess with a router is the way to go:
It probably would have taken me a week to clean all the braid recess by hand. I did the whole track in 7 hours!
And here she is in all her naked glory!
Here's the problem:
My router will not fit under there to clean up the braid recess. Not to mention having access to install the new braid! So here's my solution: if you can't remove the overpass, remove the underpass.
Believe me, I studied this area of the track construction very well before I started this procedure! The underpass section of the track consisted of two pieces. I used magnets (I guess slot car traction magnets are good for something!) to locate the screws holding the track sections to the tabletop. I then used a knife to dig into the track through the wood filler to expose the screws heads. The screws were removed with a screw gun where access permitted. A couple were removed by hand. The tricky part came when I realized there were some screws that secured the track from the underside of the tabletop. Luckily I found this out while digging for one of the screws heads and found the pointy end instead!
This piece of the track did NOT want to come up! I kept thinking I missed some screws. But after some persuasion it finally popped up.
My hammer and a wedge made for a great persuader. Persistence does pay off!
So here's the two pieces of track that form the underpass. Now I can do a skim cut with my router to clean up the braid recesses and then repaint them. I will install the braid on the esses before I reconnect them to the rest of the track since that is the section with the least amount of clearance.
Dude, you keep working like this and you might ruin your recklessly squandered reputation!
You might even have to build my new track for me.
So when are starting your build there Chris. Mine is on hold till the remodel is done.
Mine is waiting until I have some spare time. Not sure when that might actually be, so I am living vicariously through Bill.
I miss mine though, especially now...
So did you get your urban Assault rig done..
Somebody needs to go check on Bill and make sure he didn't drop the track on top of him or worse fell asleep on his creeper. Been 4 days and no post......
I've been working on laying the new braid. It's a tedious, messy, time consuming, nasty job, and I don't like it! I have finished laying the braid on the section of esses I had separated from the rest of the track. Today I reinstalled that section of track and the corner section leading into the underpass. Next I will bondo the cracks and screws holes making the course complete again.
I figure this track should outlive me so a little advise in advance to the next owner after I'm gone. Unless you end up owning this track somewhere in the future you can ignore the following information!
When it is time for re-braiding re-routing the braid recess is definitely the way to go. To complete the task there are two sections of the track that need to be removed from the tabletop to gain access to complete the job, the esses and the curve leading into the underpass. Use a magnet to locate the screws that hold these pieces in place. There are 8 screws securing the esses section, 7 through the top of the road bed with the heads Bondo'd over, and 1 screw from the underside at the entrance to the underpass. The curve section leading into the underpass has 12 screws securing it in place, 10 from the top and Bondo'd over, and 2 from the underside also in the location of the underpass entrance. All of the screw heads that have been Bondo'd over were first covered with paper to ensure that the philips screw heads would not be damaged for removal.
The new braid was layed on the esses section
The sections I had separated from the rest of track are now re-installed. The course is complete again, just more braid laying to come.
The screws heads securing the track sections that must be removed for re-braiding are covered with paper before the Bondo is applied over them.
Bill all that hard work is stating to pay off
If you drink three or four red bulls every other hour sleep is not needed for days. You could be all done by Friday. Looking great by the way
Thanks Doc. I think it would take more than just Red Bull!
Da dada dada da da... Tequila
Da dada dada da da... Tequila
no that just make him sleepy. maybe some nose candy....
As of today, 750 feet of braid has been installed on the track, 1one 500 foot spool, and one 250 foot spool! 4 full tubes of adhesive were used to secure the braid to the track. With only another 50 feet of braid to lay I should be done soon. Next up is the painting of the lane colors on the new section of track, and a few touch up spots where the underpass track section was removed for routing and braiding. Then it's time to finish up the wiring!
For the last few days while I was waiting for another roll of braid to arrive, I worked on the track wiring. Like the braid this has turned into complete replacement of the wiring. I decided to add more power taps and re-do how the track braid connects to the track wiring. At this point I have most of one side of the track rewired.
I also painted the lane striping on the new section and touched them up where repairs were made to the existing track surface.
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