NASTE Odd Thursday Night Racing Rules & Current Thread (Page 60 of 85)

Just realized I never actually answered Tom's question directly:  The cars which were sold invariably between the three (or more) companies are called Mono-Vells or Rev-ograms, or whatever conglomeration you can make with the collective syllables from the companies' names.

It refers to all the cars, not just the Sebring chassis'd models.

Examples are here: https://www.electricdreams.com/Shop/slo … c-168_214/

...but DON'T BUY ANY without talking to Bill first.

Chris

Thanks for all the input! That MonoVell class sounds like it would be a hoot. Were you thinking it would be a good class for beginners or a new class for the experienced (already hooked) folks?

I did some pokin' around in the nest today (what I have come to refer to the attic of the shop as, as in Goose Nest). I located a few of the cars Chris spoke about that use the Sebring chassis. All of the cars pictured use the exact same chassis, the Sebring. Even the chassis under the Revell/Monogram cars are stamped MRRC. At any rate this is just a small sample of the USED cars I plucked (sorry yet another Goose pun) from a tote.

Tomorrow I will do some testing with these cars to see how they run on Inslot's Checkered Flag in stock configuration. If they run OK here they should run OK anywhere!

Pending test results I would be happy to sponsor this new class of racing by making the cars available CHEAP. Like $15 CHEAP to folks intent on RACING them. But I have two stipulations.......

1. This new class would be developed primarily as an entry level class with its sole purpose to help new racers get started in NASTE's racing program. With that said modifications must be limited and simple to execute.

2. This new class will be called the Goose Cup. Goose really liked the Sebring chassis and I know he was constantly searching for a less powerful motor replacement for the chassis. There are lots of slimline test motors scattered here and there is all of his stuff. Tomorrow I'll see if there is any potential with the stock motors. I know on Al's track as well as others we can just drop the voltage to get the motor performance we desire. Just like we have done for the Over 50 class.

===========Bill

Bill- If this is a go (and I support it), you know what car I will need.

Based on my limited experience with them, a new set of shoes will be required if we stay at 10V. 

I really like the idea of dropping the voltage as part of the package, but we'll have to see where that puts the entertainment factor.

Chris

I will race one. However I would also like to point out that getting new people involved by adding classes is almost never a good idea IMO. You have to have at least 10 cars as it is to complete a season with out club.

Access to cars and good technical articles with part numbers would do more to ease the burden of entry.

I am sure these would be fun with some tires, but they have a lot of motor for the chassis, and even though we can get a bunch cheap now doesnt mean they will always be that way for new comers in the future.

This class sounds like what Carrera DTM should have been saved for.

Just my .02

Zack

We love your input Tom! We've been doing this so long sometimes we forget what it's like to be "The New Guy"! Keep the input and feedback coming Tom!

=========Bill

These cars are lovely bodies but overpowered for the chassis. With the right tires and calmer motors they might be lots of fun. I have a great love for the King Cobra and the Porsche 904, the Cobra coupe, etc., so I would love to be able to race these. As of now, they're shelf queens until I can build better chassis for them, or....we race them as a new class!

Re Slim-can motors:
The Scalextric slim cans turn about 24K, the MRRC/ Monogram/Revell motors turn about 20K. The aftermarket motors like Minnow are 18K but very low on torque. I found that the SLT-2 motors that we are using in the F-1 proxy are 18K but with more torque and are snappier than the minnow.
Another option to make these cars run well with the stock motors is to use a smaller pinion and larger Crown gear. But these are all mods to the cars, most of which I learned from Goose.

For our discussion here turning down the voltage a volt or two would probably be best, easiest, and cheapest.
These cars all look small, but the Chaparral has the same footprint as a slot it GT-40. I have one that is capable of running in the 6s on Al's track. Fun cars to play with, learn on and experiment with.

All that being said I have to also agree with Doc. The Carrera DTM is an affordable beast that is bullet proof, and all we need to do is sand the tires.  It is also still in production and readily available. It just happens that The Goose wasn't a fan so MR Bill probably doesn't have two or three boxes of them. But who knows what is waiting in those unopened boxes?

As someone past 60 I prefer the look/style of the older cars, but if we are trying to entice newer (AKA Younger) racers the DTMs with all those graphic liveries may be more appealing to them.

Coffee cup is empty, see ya.

MRRC UPDATE:

This morning I tested all the MRRC cars I have pictured. These are all used cars out of Goose's stuff, some of them were worked over slightly, some were totally stock. All of the cars had the stock wheels. With stock tires the cars had the typically bouncing and gyrating going on. The cars that he had changed the rear tires to urethane were very smooth running. I assume he had trued them. He also had one car he slipped silicones on. It was also very smooth. This tells me some of the urethane shod cars rear tires may not have been trued.

The only other modifications I found in the cars was the addition of just a little bit of weight. The Cheetah ran exceptional smooth and it had just 1/4 oz. or so of lead just behind the guide flag. None of the cars had the body screws loosened for body float.

Power-wise at 12.75 volts on my track the cars were very smooth and easily controlled. Power delivery was very linear and controllable. I'd say not overpowered or explosive at all.

I think these cars would be suitable for the class you guys have in mind. I would recommend keeping the allowable mods to changing the rear tires to urethanes and adding lead weight. I would put a cap on the car's maximum weight to keep this modification from getting out of hand through "creativity". One or two pieces of sticky backed lead, that's it (INSIDE the chassis - on the bottom NOT allowed).

I will bring some cars to Al's for further testing. Here's my thoughts on the power issue; if the cars have too much power at 10 volts on a shorter, tighter track like Al's, there is no reason the voltage can't be turned down to achieve the desired power level for the cars. I've raced with power levels as low as 6 volts.

===========Bill

No kidding. I'll have to take up a new hobby just to kill time for the next few weeks!