Search options (Page 55 of 56)

Bill- which one did you get?  Gurney or McCluskey?  They look really beautiful, but I've read they have wimpy motors.  It seems most everyone is turning them into shelf queens, so you are not alone.  I finally ran my Scalextric Eagle, I just had to see how it ran.  It came away unscathed and I intend to replace the braids so it will still look brand new.

Rico

Gut feel and experience I'd say

Rico

They look a lot like a kid's toy.....so they should be perfect......ly awful.  Just havin fun.
Rico

I knew they made track, but have never seen/heard about cars
Rico

Bill- Do the brushes have a concave area where you would expect them to make contact?  If they do can/should this be corrected?  Would the motor run better?
Rico

Bill- You make a valid point, but if you read down through this post that there is little agreement on what type of car to run, so what options does that leave?  An IROC series certainly is not the only answer and I for one like to know how the car I'm running is prepared which an IROC series precludes. I believe that you feel the same way, but as a NASTE administrator you must certainly understand some of the reasons the IROC choice was made.  I'm sure that cost was a consideration, but not the only one.  I know that I spent quite a lot of dollars on this slot.it series for upgrades and repairs.  Having to spend less for these types of things leaves more money for other cars or whatever and is certainly welcome in my opinion.
Thanks for listening
Rico

Now this is what I'm talkin' about

That's the one.....I forgot to mention that part.  Can you say cheap racing.  AJ is trying to build one for the little Ferrari 166 he has, should be interesting

Bill- I agree with everything that George states in his post.  My Mclaren has dragged on the track since day one, it always has passed tech and I have it on good authority that as long as it passes tech it is ok to run.  I am currently running it with shims between the pod and the chassis as I feared that the magnets were possible rubbing and/or shorting.  At first, with the racing magnet big side down it was the magnet rubbing, I later turned the magnet over and installed the stock magnet in the front. There was no more contact on the magnet, but the pod was still hitting.  I tried sanding it first (it was not flat) but it still rubbed and that is when I decided to try the shims. The shims actually made the car drive better due to less contact with the track and the lap times have come down to an observed 4.1 seconds, among the fastest inline cars. However it still rubs and I can see drag marks on the chassis itself on the area in front and rear of the pod.  In my mind this only leaves chassis and/or track flexing as the culprit.  There are a couple of spots on the track where there are elevation changes that a fair number of cars, and not just Slot.it cars, tend to scrape as you well know.  I can show you what I use as spacers if there is any interest.
Rico

If someone wants to spend oodles of money on slot cars: they can and will no matter what the scale is.  I have seen $100.00+ HO cars and 1/24 motors for $281.00.  Do you have to spend that much money to have a good time?  Of course not, but people do and will continue to do so.  You and I enjoy tweaking our cars to try to make them better which usually leads to more expense for upgraded parts or whatever.  I don't get the idea that Randy does and except for his 300+ car collection, his expense per car is probably less than what you or I might spend.  I think we all know that any scale can be raced relatively cheaply or one can spend cubic dollars to race. I guess it just depends what one is trying to do and there is no right or wrong answer.
Rico