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Some videos of the Early Modified heat races yesterday.

Start of the race - first heat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvunP5CMVws

Heat race no.2 Ted blows a gear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZU2QQMh0yQ

Lance's launch at 3:48:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWAV0dR4rjw

The 02222020 Crash Fest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6kuINkVxDg

From my experience I would echo what Zack said.

I worked in a tire recap shop when I was young. It takes extreme heat to affect the hardness or softness of rubber. I can't imagine we are generating that kind of heat even with the heavy and fast 1/24 scratchbuilt cars. If the tires were too hot to handle after a heat race I'd say maybe, but I just don't see it in our application.

As far as urethanes go, the molding is a cold pour process so again I think you would be talking about extreme heat to charge the tire's shore rating. With that said I do know they will "come apart" if in the truing process you get too aggressive and create too much heat. So if they were reaching a heat cycle close enough to change the shore rating I think they would just come apart. But then again that is a LOT of heat, way more than what is experienced by the car itself on the track. I did a fair amount of experimentation when I was molding urethane tires, and I do know that having them under a very hot lamp does nothing to affect the shore rating (as measured by a shore meter). The heat from the lamp was probably in excessive of any tire temperatures the cars themselves could generate.

It's a beauty Howie!

AWESOME!

Thanks Zack!

Just one of the highlights of the OSCAR races at Inslot's Checkered Flag is lunch featuring Firehouse Sub Sandwiches! And this time I got ALL the sandwich orders right!

Results from the February 13th race:

I believe it will be retail ordering straight from Jim Difalco.

If you order one of the Genesis network controllers you will eventually want different networks for the 1/32 cars and the 1/24 cars at Howie's. A higher overall ohm network for 1/32 cars at Al's will work at Howie's, but the overall response and sensitivity is going to be really soft for the higher current 1/24 cars.

Also if you get the DD304 you will probably want to swap out the heat sink for the larger one. If I remember correctly Zack's controller got really hot the first time he used it at Howie's. You might check with Zack for details.

Tom, here's my 2 cents on those controllers you listed. First off Difalcos are my favorite controllers. They're tough! I've seen problems with other controllers, especially if you accidentally hook up backwards. I've only seen one issue with a Difalco.

The Difalco DD268 is the Fanatic model. It features multiple small potentiometers, one for each of the "bands" the controller wiper makes contact with. This controller has almost infinite adjustability. The compromise with this adjustability is the need to manually adjust each potentiometer for your baseline control. Once you have your baseline set you can adjust just like the other controller models using the sensitivity "knob". It can be time consuming setting up your baseline, depending on how particular you are, and the baseline settings may be something you want to change depending on tracks or cars. With this controller a notebook for keeping notes regarding settings might be handy. I have one of these controllers you can look at and try if you'd like before making a decision and purchase.

The DD281 is the top of the line newest Genesis model. The Genesis models use an interchangeable transistor network instead of the individual potentiometers for the wiper bands for the baseline settings. The only downside to this versus the Fanatic is; to change your baseline control settings you need to change out the "network" for a different one. For our racing that would probably mean one network for 1/24, and one network for 1/32. With the Fanatic you would just change each of the 12 or 15 potentiometer settings. The DD281 also comes equipped with a traction control potentiometer and the Pro brake potentiometer. I like the traction control option, but I'm not sure the Pro brake potentiometer is really needed for the racing we do around here. The DD271 is the same controller without traction control. I also have a DD281. It is the controller of mine you've used before.

The DD270 gives you the Genesis controller without the traction control and Pro brake potentiometer (uses the economy pot.). I think one advantage of the Pro brake potentiometer is it is less likely to burn up if you hook up backwards. The DD280 is just the DD270 with traction control added.

The DD304 Stan mentions is basically the DD280 but primarily designed for 1/32 racing. It comes with a network for racing 1/32 cars whereas the 200 series Genesis controllers come with networks for 1/24 racing. I'm sure this controller would work for both 1/32 and 1/24 with a network change. My personal choice was to go with the 200 series controllers for 1/24 because I feel the components are more robust. Most 1/24 scale cars use a lot more current than the 1/32 cars which means more amperage through the circuit.

When in doubt just email Jim Difalco for his advice. He is great about responding to email questions and will be happy to build you the right controller to suit your needs!

Videos from the Early Modified race on February 8, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJvqGvZlIsU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xcwry22F13Y