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I cleaned my HO chassis with a little WD-40 to loosen up the built up grime, followed by a couple blasts of compressed air from a spray can (office duster). And I do it in the garage with the chassis sitting on some old rags to stay happily married. Don't try this inside the house, kids...;-)

I am (slowly) working on converting a Porsche 917 without the little fins in the back to one with them. I purchased the Fly 917 kit (Buenos Aires) and had to strip the decals/tampo off to get a clean white body. However, soaking in Simple Green for over a week didn't remove a thing. Rubbing alcohol worked with equally bad results. What did the trick for me was rubbing the tampo print with a cotton tip soaked in brake fluid. Make sure you wear gloves as brake fluid sucks the moisture right out of your skin. The body paint is still spotless but the tampo print is gone.

I found this method googling for "stripping model kits" and this was one of the methods. There are videos available showing the process. Supposedly soaking them in lye works great too, but finding lye based cleaners at the (ACE) hardware store was a little challenging. Oven cleaners are usually lye based but I wasn't too sure about the other compounds in it, even though people on the web recommended it for stripping model kits. Using the brake fluid soaked cotton tip I had a little more control over the amount I applied. I left a couple of tampo prints I liked on.

After the brake fluid treatment wash the body in mild soapy water and rinse thoroughly.

I did have another body that had water slide decals on and they came off like a charm using Simple Green.

Speaking of vintage slot cars...

Look at this! http://cgi.ebay.com/Fleischmann-EMPTY-o … 1|294%3A50

I'm surprised this has seven bids on it.

Maerklin? Are you sure it's Maerklin, not Fleischmann?

Any pictures? Or links?

I have dealt with that eBay seller (Lakotacollectibles) Rico is referring to and I found him pleasant to deal with. I thought he's usually a little on the high side with his pricing but these Fly Evo's seem pretty reasonable in price compared to others.

Since I missed the whole conversation leading up to this thread, are we planning on developing a Fly racing class with these Evo's? What happened to AJ's suggestion of using the new Fly Daytona prototypes? They are "in print", easier to come by and cheaper.

Again, I'm not familiar with what led to this thread, so you can take my comments any way you see fit. ;p

When I visited Luf Linkert in Vancouver BC he said that silicone tires don't work on routed (painted) track. He used stock tires or the home made (Winnipeg) tires that are comparable to the ones Glenn made for us. I did read that there are many different recipes for making urethane tires but in general they are the same. The 1/32 cars  on Luf's tracks performed well. You can watch some of the cars going around the track on his website to get an idea of the handling of the cars.

Yes, these lights are BRIGHT. They are similar to the ones Howie used in his turn lights. But those were battery operated.

Hi Rico,

I was aware of the procedure on how to measure torque and the physics behind it. What my short question to Bill did not explain was that I wanted to know how *BILL* tested for torque. In other words, what his test bench setup was.

My apologies for not being clear.

How do you test/measure torque? What 'mistake' are you talking about when it comes to the mounting of the brushes?