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I don't think NASCAR bodies would be the only choice. I know some of the Trans Am cars will also fit. Not sure what else.......   -----------------------------Bill

I agree with Rico! Not good for serious racing.  -------------------Bill

What's boring to the eye is not always boring to race on! We're looking forward to seeing more pictures!

Have fun in Eugene! Who you racin' with?

---------------Bill

At the PASER race on the BullRing Saturday, Bob Nakamura ran his Parma FCR car around. His FCR was stock other than being fitted with some lead weight up front and on the front sides. A NASCAR snap kit body was mounted on the chassis (the Revell snap kits came pre-painted as did the Revell Pro kits). Anyway his car ran GREAT! It was lapping only .2 to .4 seconds slower than the Econo cars! Something to consider............  -------------------Bill

Garage sale......$5.00!!!!

Or try a computer power supply and use a rheostat on the 120 volt side.......

  -------------------Bill

I've used a couple of methods to get my aprons level with the track. If the plywood or mdf is too thin you can shim it with pieces of cardboard installed underneath.  You can also use a thin coat of plaster of paris on top of the plywood or mdf and sand it down to track level (plaster sands very easily). Coat the plaster with primer and paint. Both these methods have worked for me.  ----------------------Bill

I'm holding out for an injection molded body. I know there was an old MPC (I think) model kit. And I've seen a Strombecker slot car listed as a 1/24 scale Ford J a couple times on Ebay (not sure about that one. I've never actually seen one up close).

-----------------Bill

Best thing about the J was it was hard to get around! The paint chips on the upper rear corners were from getting the body through tech!!! I ran a mildly modified chassis under it with an armature I had rewound. I did win a race with it, but if I remember correctly I was only allowed to race it once.

The Vette was a major mod. Alan Blanchard and I each built one. At the time motor magnets for T-Jets were weak. The only thing available as an upgrade were the 20 + year old blue & yellow hop-up magnets. We had found from racing Aurora Magna-Traction cars that the old Aurora Quadra-Lam armarures really came alive with the bigger stronger magnets. So what we did was mill out the inside bottom of the T-Jet chassis where the motor magnets sat. Then we milled out the underside of the T-Jet gearplate for magnet clearance. With the Magna-Traction magnets in the T-Jet chassis (yes they will fit and I can prove it with photos!) they flew! We also redrilled the rear axle holes higher in the rear of the chassis to lower the car. The car in the photo was rebuilt and the T-Jet gear plate was replaced with an A/FX style gear plate and gears to reduce weight. The A/FX gear plate also had to be milled for magnet clearance. We painted up two lexan Corvette bodies in team colors. The cars were very fast but really hard to control!

-----------------------Bill

Looks like it huh!.......sadly those are what some of the HO manufacturers consider "car tires.........................and you guys wonder why I like "O" rings....

---------------Bill

Looks like we got a little off track of what AJ started here. So to help get back on track here's some old stuff!

Back in the 80's I raced with H.O.R.O. (HO Racers of Oregon). We had an "unlimited" T-Jet class that was based on stock T-Jet chassis. You could not use traction magnets of any kind. Alan Blanchard and I built two of these lexan Corvette bodied entries. This #2 car is mine.

Rico - If we add the second class, such as the 1/24 vintage cars, why not add a class we could run on the 1/32 tracks also? We could pick a class of car that we all have already. For example a Slot.It class, or maybe just a 1/32 production chassis non-magnetic class? Something along the lines of what you, Monte, and I have been experimenting with. We could also run that class on 1/24 tracks for a change of pace.

As far as the point series, There are four choices. The NASTE Championship could be determined by; 1) points accumulated from the IROC races only, 2) points accumulated from the non-IROC races only, 3) the total points from both races, 4) Or the points from both races could be tallied and separate winners in both types of races could be named.

  We have grouped racers together by experience or skill level before, and maybe that is something we should go back to. The ability to "throw out" a couple of bad races each season also helps with the "bad race" scenario.

------------------------Bill