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Lots of discussion going on regarding the vintage style chassis. My whole goal with this type of class would be to have a class of 1/24 cars we could race for years to come. Early on NASTE raced the original NASTE Chassis cars with RadioShack motors for years. We went through 5 or 6 seasons using the same chassis and just used different makes and styles of model car bodies for the different classes. We definitely got our money's worth with those cars! Most of us "old guys" still have our original cars, as do some of the "young guys"!
This time around I was looking for cars that are easily obtainable, relatively inexpensive, and don't require any major modifications or expert level building ability. So to further the discussion, here are some more prospects in addition to the vintage sidewinder 36D cars:
Listed in no particular order, left to right, front to rear; 1/24 EJs Hobbies kit (shown with the Cheetah body. There are other styles available), vintage Garvic, Pro-Trac RTR, Parma FCR (available as RTR). Testing to follow................
That digital track is sure lookin' good Monte! Nice job!!!!............but it still scares me!!!!
I guess what I'm really wondering is would they all be close enough in performance if we just spec'd the "orange" motors? Racers could run inline, sidewinder, or anglewinder - their choice, in any type car. Or maybe designate a body class (i.e. vintage sports car, can am, or endurance?). We'll probably need some more testing to determine how equal the different configurations are in performance. Who would be interested in scheduling a couple "test" races? Maybe one on my 6 lane 1/24 track, and one on Randy's plastic track? Both races would be non-magnetic.
-------------------------Bill
Rico, I did a little checking. It appears to me the gear pitch is the same between the inline and sidewinders. The difference seems to be in the diameter of the gears. The sidewinder pinions are larger in diameter.
Could we allow any motor configuration? Would non-magnetic chassis equalize then playing field?
Bryan came over tonight to test out his brass chassis 1/32 stock car. We ran some Slot.It cars for a bit. My HRS TCONY stock car seemed to keep up with his sidewinder Ferrari pretty well. The biggest advantage seemed to be the "red" endbell motor in Bryan's Ferrari versus the "orange" in my TCONY.
Sounds like maybe we need more experiments.............or better yet....LET's RACE!!!!!!
-----------------Bill
So what do you think Rico, would spec "orange endbell" motors be a good idea? Frank mentioned last night that Randy had about 15 of them because he has swapped out all his cars motors for the "yellow" endbells motors. Frank said he thought Randy would sell them for $5 to $10, or possibly even "give" them away? Might be a good source if some people do not have an "orange endbell" motor? How 'bout it Randy? -----------Bill
Well said Rico! I agree 120%! What a GREAT race!!!! Thank you Monte & Victoria!!!! ---------------------Bill
After last nights testing session it appears urethane tires are the hot ticket for the Fly Porsche GT1 Evos on my 1/24 routed track. Rico I don't remember what brand those were? The Jel Claws came in a close second. The Evo3 chassis with the spring mounted motor pod seemed smoother than the Evo2s, although we did not compare lap times to see which was actually quicker (tires and wheels were another variable with the different cars). ------------------Bill
For those of you that have been following the topic under 1/32 cars, we have been doing some testing of the Fly Porsche GT1 Evo cars as non-magnetic racers on various tracks, including routed 1/24 tracks. My original thought was to have a class of 1/32 cars we could race on the NASTE circuit of 1/24 tracks as well as 1/32. The Fly Porsche idea came about because a few of us have them, and the reviews of them as non-magnet race cars were good.
However through my testing I've come to the conclusion that Slot.It cars are hard to beat as they come right out of the box! They're handling can be improved even more with just tire changes for the different track surfaces. I've been thinking, maybe Slot.It is the class we should look at running non-magnetic? After all, most everybody already has them! Here is some added dialog Monte and I have had regarding this topic:
Bill: Maybe we could just spec out one of those "cheap" motors we have seen?
Monte: Actually, I think the orange motor would be just fine. Everyone already has one of those. Then it
Autumn Spills with Rammer's Ramp to the Ridge......
Sounds like another good reason to get together! I like it!!!! Let's put it on the agenda. ----------------------------Bill
Dude, He has THE LOOK!!!!............I think He's ready for an enduro!!!!!
You can purchase NASTE coffee mugs or stickers here:
http://www.zazzle.com/wb0s1955
I made a couple mugs with the NASTE logo design work Terry Abbott and Monte Saager did. I just received my mugs in the mail today and they look great! They are available on Zazzle here:
http://www.zazzle.com/wb0s1955
The club gets 10% of the purchase price from Zazzle for any mugs sold. ---------------------------------Bill
ECONO CARS.................. I am Putting a post out there for anyone who has a econo chassis that they do not use and would like to get rid of...
I was at Howies race tonight and there were some guys that want to get into the econo car class........
I know there are lots of these cars floating around out there.........that are not being used...and may never be used........if you have one.....or know of someone who has one and want to sell it.......please let me know.....
It would be a great way to recycle the car.........I would normally just head out the the garage to build some......but my time now is very,very limited.....we had 15 racers out there...and three guys showed up to watch...and are ready to buy cars and start racing!!!
So dig out your old econo cars.............................. Thanks.
To all of you that want a Vintage sidewinder chassis car to race next year I have 2 Gar Vic cars all set up to race for sell. I was going to list them on e-bay this weekend.. $45.00 These cars have a good running 36d motor, silicone rear tires and a .90 swinging weight off the front axle for better handling.. With so so bodies mounted on them.. For playing with.. The cars have been tested on Jeff's track and work good as the rest I have. Please call me at 503-852-6311 if interested.. larry302@viclink.com E-mail me if you want a picture..
These cars are easy to get on e-bay so I see no need to keep them just to sit on so I'm giving you guys first shot before they go on the block.
Here's photos of the Garvic cars Larry has for sale:
Oooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh man!!!!!!!!!!!!
You know what, I kinda like those little things!!!!.............They do look like great Autumn Hills cars!!!! ---------Bill
Smooth, I'm thinkin' I can clear the water heater wall! ------------------------Bill
Rick, I've never used "brake parts cleaner" and I don't know what chemicals are in it. When I clean motors or HO chassis I use WD40. It's also a good contact cleaner. I've "hosed down" HO cars with it and never had a problem. Same with 1/32 & 1/24 motors.
---------------------Bill
George, I think your method of using small amounts of brake fluid is the wisest. I have soaked HO car bodies in it before, and although it works very well, you need to be very careful as far as how long you leave it exposed to the brake fluid. Brake fluid (and for that matter oven cleaner) can ruin plastic. So work carefully!
-----------Bill
I've found the Simple Green "bath" works on some cars but not on others. If the body has a clear coat Simple Green doesn't work well. I soaked my Carrera Roadrunner Stock Car in Simple Green and it worked great. I soaked a Carrera Corvette with the American Eagle paint scheme and Simple Green didn't touch it as it had a good clear coat. I've used Simple Green in my ultra-sonic cleaner on some of my HO bodies that were repainted, and some Johnny Lightning bodies. In the ultra-sonic cleaner the bodies came out perfect.
I have used oven cleaner on bodies that have been painted to remove the bad paint jobs. If you use oven cleaner keep watch on the process! The stuff is nasty! Very bad odors and fumes! I didn't leave trhe oven cleaner on the body for more than 30 minutes. The key is testing and keeping an eye on the body some the oven cleaner doesn't damage it.
Brake fluid is another product you need to be careful with. If you soak a body in it you again need to keep an eye on it. If left in brake fluid too long the body will suffer damage!
As with ALL chemicals, when using them wear protective gear! That includes eye protection, the proper gloves, and a respirator if the chemical gives off fumes!
------------------Bill
Weird guide flag & pickup assembly, but the motor and rear axle carrier look good!
Posts found: 5,476 to 5,500 of 5,720