451

(13 replies, posted in Modifications)

The first step to flattening the chassis is to make sure there is no low lying areas on the bottom of the chassis. I take a 600g nail file and just run it across the bottom surface of the chassis to reveal any low spots.

I have found that especially cars that have had axle height screws installed in the bottom, tend to have a high ridge around them. You will want to remove any very low points like this to ensure the chassis ends up flat.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952418506_dde6fdb060_b.jpg

Next you need a flat plate. I use a galvanized storm drain plate I got from home depot for $7 bucks. So it doesn't rust over time. Luckily all those magnets you have taken out of cars are now useable again!

Simply stick the chassis down on the plate using many magnets. Make sure you don't have it on top of anything that will crush, and that you are not pushing the chassis one way or another, or else it will end up tweaked when your done!

I also stuck down the motor pod using all three of the magnet locations.

You want to remove the bushings from the pod when putting in water, as they tend to oxidize. The easiest way I have found on these is to just stick your allen through, turn the bushings sideways, and pry it out. Be careful it doesn't go flying!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952393483_c06f0c1fd1_b.jpg

Once you have it all prepped on the plate, it goes in oven safe dishware. As per the usual process. Preheat the oven to 230* and boil some water in a separate pot. Once the water is boiling pour it into the dishware over the chassis (i never pour directly on it, but more in the corner of the dish). Immediately after this, stick it in the oven and turn it off. Leave sit overnight (8hrs). The key here is to cool it very slowly, don't open the oven and check etc. Just wait.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952393368_fe2e8828eb_b.jpg

The next update will be prepping the motor pod for installation of the motor and bushings. As already shown in the motor pod thread here. So may be repetitive, but I figure it will be nice having it all in order!

Zack

Alright guys, this will be a long one so will likely come in several installments.

This will be how to prepare a FAST Slot.it Mclaren M8D. However the same principals can be applied to all of their sidewinder cars with similar success.

I am prepping another car for a club member so decided to document all the stages of the build. Hopefully there will be enough detail here so that you can replicate the results for yourself.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952376242_6020399966_b.jpg

Prepping plastic cars is pretty time consuming, the first thing you need to do is strip it all the way down to the chassis and bare motor pod. If the chassis and motor pod are not flat, any amount of tuning is going to yield marginal results. As you can see from the photos, this car was far from flat on either the chassis or the pod.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952419436_41323d8f91_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952376077_5d0a6e16e5_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47952376397_b8af943740_b.jpg

After this, the next step will be flattening the chassis. Steps for this in post #2....

Zack

docdoom wrote:
Wanabgts wrote:
reek455 wrote:

Thanks Al for hosting another rip roaring night of racing. Thank you Zach for loaner CanAm car, it was excellent.

Rico

No problem Rico, sorry we had to do a mid race swap! I will try and get yours sorted for next time, should have plenty of time!

Thanks Al, always a great night in the basement!

Zack

going have to start charging there  zack for all those speed secrets....

I enjoy the tinkering process Doc, and no one has fun when their car is struggling. Besides, the students rarely become the master faster than the master learns new tricks!

Zack

reek455 wrote:

Thanks Al for hosting another rip roaring night of racing. Thank you Zach for loaner CanAm car, it was excellent.

Rico

No problem Rico, sorry we had to do a mid race swap! I will try and get yours sorted for next time, should have plenty of time!

Thanks Al, always a great night in the basement!

Zack

docdoom wrote:

No racing for me On Thursday. got bad news about family member. have fun all

Sorry to hear that Doc. You will be missed!

Zack

ckouba wrote:
Wanabgts wrote:

I am newer to the club...

Fairly irrelevant.  You just have experience with bigger scales and certainly bring a truckload of enthusiasm to the smaller ones.

Wanabgts wrote:

...I do know any type of racing it is very hard to fix classing by excluding certain models if they truly fit the intent, since eventually the next fastest car will just be what everyone has....

This is precisely my concern as well.  Right now it's the Ford GT in the crosshairs.  It's no secret I'm somewhat of a fan.  I want to be able to race them.  If we exclude them, shall we also exclude Camaros from Trans Am?  McLarens (or whatever the "hot" car in GT3 really is) from GT3?  Slot.It McLarens from Can-Am?

What I like about our club specifically is we share with each other.  Got a car you can't figure out?  Someone will help.  Got a set up that works?  It gets shared.  Any class could become a single marque/model category if really pushed.  At one point, Classics I was the Ninco Corvette class.  Remember?  If a current top runner is cut from a class, there will be a new top runner.  To quote someone (I think), "the king/queen is dead, long live the king/queen!"


Wanabgts wrote:

Can am, I feel will be much like classic 2 going forward. Since I have developed the Slot.it cars to be at Thunderslot pace, and those cars are specifically excluded.

Agreed, and it would be a shame to have this happen.  Don't pull the rug out from under someone just because they were able to tune a car.

I do agree with Stan and think there is something to be said about the minimal modification classes.  Keep things as close to box stock (like GT3's and BRM's) and things tend to run well.  I think the mods in Le Mans are justified because the Flys start out as such turds anyway.  I wouldn't mind adding some stock classes but also really enjoy the classes we already have.

Chris

Here's my thing with "spec" racing. In other words box stock. If you limit the modifications allowed to a platform, then ultimately you just end up with a field of like cars. Just like the problem with the ford GT. Even Scalextric GT3 is basically Spec McLaren/Mercedes. This will happen with all of the classes if you really limit the mods, because some cars are just better than others based on design. Then we are all out buying more cars until we find the fastest one. 

On another note, I learned very fast in slot cars that unlike RC and 1:1 motorsports driving only gets you so far. It is nearly impossible to win with a car that is even just 2-3 tenths off the pace. So trying to make classes more "driver" oriented seems like a tough one in the long run.

I have no business winning based on my driving compared to others in the club, but my cars are good enough to make up the gap.

We could just leave classic 2 alone and make a Ford GT Lemans class as monte described....I wouldn't have any problems there. Just a shame not to race them.


Zack

I am newer to the club, so I don't feel as fit to provide good arguments in these discussions because the classes were obviously made for a reason. I do know any time of racing it is very hard to fix classing by excluding certain models if they truly fit the intent, since eventually the next fastest car will just be what everyone has.

Nearly everything mentioned so far exludes cars I have purchased in the last 6 months to race these specific classes, Frustrating of course, but I understand. Maybe its best to not race them for a year and just let other people develop some cars?

Lemans, although I only raced it a couple times, seemed like really good lower paced racing with the fastest cars being hardly under 7 seconds. Finishes were close.

Can am, I feel will be much like classic 2 going forward. Since I have developed the Slot.it cars to be at Thunderslot pace, and those cars are specifically excluded.

I always gravitate toward the best racing, so my keepers from this year going into next season would still have to be GT3, and Lemans. Even though I am not a fan of the GT3 they provided some very good races.

Zack

You mean you guys don't want to run the highly competitive Classic Ford GT 2 class?!? Im appalled! lol

Are we talking Slot.it DTM? Because I can get behind that!

I am fine with classic 1 as well.

Zack

Keeping two and two new ones would be nice. I have a pretty good amount invested in the last few months getting to the point where I have cars for most of what we have going.

I think Classic 2 might as well die haha.

The slot.it Group c cars are very fun and fast, plus seems everyone has one. GFX could be cool....

Zack

wb0s wrote:

Zack, in that reference the "fastest lap" is the method used to break the tie for 5th place. Not necessarily the fastest lap of the race. I edited the post....

Bill, I was attempting a joke. Internet context is the worst. hahaha

Nice job Doc and Rico!

Zack

Mitch had the fastest lap in Classic 2? Darn, I though 6.54s was fast.....back to work!

Zack

Nice job Al!

Zack

463

(8 replies, posted in For Sale or Trade)

When i get back I will have to come take a looksy.

Zack

464

(8 replies, posted in For Sale or Trade)

Is the Eldon pretty decent stuff? I have never seen any setup before....

Zack

I won't be able to make this Thursday's meet, First one I have missed since the first time I visited Al's....Have a great time everybody don't let him beat you up too bad!

Zack

We have been going 80 in open for a few meets. But i was suprised to do it with the GFX car. She was working good!

Zack

Looks like a blast!

468

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

reek455 wrote:

I understand your concern with the warping and on most applications I use washers as well to help eliminate that from happening

Thats a good idea, I will see if that works well for me on my next build!

Glad someone finds them Helpful Bill, there was a time I could have used the info!

Zack

469

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

reek455 wrote:

Good info Zack. Thank you. I prefer using motor screws over glue in case you want to remove the motor at a later time.  Which is easy to do on Slot.it cars because they already have holes for them.  I have drilled holes on other brands with my pin vise and installed screws.

Screws are definitely the easy way to go. Unfortunately I have found that they distort the pod on a lot of my cars, so i kinda got away from them. If I wanted to spend more time, you can easily do a little sanding or something to releive the stress of the screws.

I magnet the pod down and then just put a coulple small spots of shoe goo on there and let it dry. It seems to hold welland actually come off quite easily with pick if needed, kinda just peels out of the crack.

Zack

470

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

For front axle height at Al's, I tend to run just a tiny amount of upward slop and the wheels should be fully on the ground on your setup block. If they are not, you will likely be carrying the wheels in the air on his copper tape track.

After that, I trimmed off a small amount around the perimeter of the chassis where is was causing the most interference. When putting the body back on, remove the washers from the countersunk screws. This will allow much more float in the body. I am running the rear "snug" and the front -1/4 from snug to start out with.

He will likely need to replace the rear tires soon, but other than that this car should be good to go!

https://live.staticflickr.com/7829/33732225438_f094f79b30_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7912/47609593621_f6963ffc42_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7854/33732224428_124014a346_b.jpg

Hope this is valuable to some!

Zack

471

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

Next up, you could tell with the uneven wear on the front tires originally that they weren't round. So I went ahead and trued up the fronts, and took 1mm off the total diameter at the same time.

I run aluminum wheels on the front of all my cars, but the plastics turn just fine if you go slowly. After being turned they were coated in nail polish.

After the car was at weight, I removed the front axle bushings as they weren't allowing the car to get all the way down in the slot. The front axle could not go high enough up into the car.

I also installed new Professor motor Brass Oval point screws into the chassis for axle height adjustment. These I believe are the best choice, since they have the lowest drag.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7880/47609592941_6b9cba4bea_b.jpg

Continued....

472

(7 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hey guys, I am working on one of Al's group c cars. Since we just ran this class I thought I would post about what I went through on his car to try and get it up to snuff. It's important to note that this was the slowest of his Group C cars, and he wanted to keep it inline because he uses these for IROC. The car I ran last thursday is converted to sidewinder, and I believe it to be the superior chassis layout.

First thing, I flattened the chassis in the usual way, the motor pod was very flat to start with so nothing was done there. The motor was glued in lightly however.

Ballast outboard of the chassis seems to help a lot, and this car didn't have enough weight up front to compress the braids and keep the front down. So weight was added there as well. This car ended up at 76g total weight.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7832/33732224718_aa2cbdbef0_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/7852/47609592591_919562fff3_b.jpg

Continued.....

473

(23 replies, posted in Cars)

Rico. Thats a cool car for the class! I need to look more into the 3d options. That should open a lot of windows.

Zack

474

(23 replies, posted in Cars)

Bill, pretty tall ride height...But they are fairly wide. No pod either....Probably going to need that.

Zack

475

(23 replies, posted in Cars)

Alright, last night after listening to Monte rant about the spec GT40 class. I am now thinking about attempting a build on something else just to see how quick it can go.

So what else is a proper "sportscar" shape, that fits well in this class? I'm up for a challenge!

Zack