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by racerbob9 » Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:30 pm

Starting to work on a 2015 Mustang Trans Am racer. I am trying to do this without adding flairs....

by howie » Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:46 am

New cars that showed up at the race of March 21, 2015.

John Gill's winning and nice looking Can-Am.

Marty's Can-Am. He had to mix paint to get that color.

Stuart's Can-Am.

Stuart's new Early Modified, a '39 Chev. It is a beauty!

Beau's new Can-Am. BEAUTIFUL! He loaned it to me to race, I thought it was too nice to race! Hope I didn't scratch it!

by howie » Sat Mar 21, 2015 11:39 am

Finally completed this Early Modified about 10 minutes ago! It will be raced later today by my over the road truck driving son Dayle.

by howie » Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:15 am

If I build it, I would hope to tangle with Bob and come out on top, but his '49 is fast and handles very well!

by howie » Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:42 am

Future project? I found this '49 Ford in my body drawer, it has been waiting for me to finish it for probably close to 15yrs! I think now it would make a fine Sportsman car.

by marty » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:55 am

https://www.duplicolor.com/images/big/b ... filler.jpg

Howie,

I use Dupli-Color Filler Primer for the small imperfections. It also makes a barrier to prevent automotive paint from attacking the plastic.

Marty

by howie » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:24 pm

SP800001 continues. Now the fun part! After making sure the tracking is right on I rough cut the flairs after I mark them with a Sharpie on the inside. I cut the flairs with a disc on a Dremel. Then I add the "Green Stuff", ( putty that is ). Back in the day there actually was a 1 to 1 body putty known as Green Stuff! I want the flairs to blend in well with the body, so I use plenty, there is more at the hobby shop! It smells too, but the wife is gone for the day so I can do it in the hobby room and let it dry in the shop for the day. The putty is real easy to sand. This green putty is supposed to be stronger than other hobby putty. I have it on my TA-2 Mustang and so far no cracks, although I didn't put it on as thick as this car. I also noticed just recently that the 1-1 NASCAR has flairs, you have to look close,
( Google NASCAR and check out the pictures ).

Are those not flairs?

Marking the flairs.

This is what is left after rough cutting.

Don't be shy in using the putty!

After centering the chassis ( the chassis does move side to side somewhat ) this is how much of the tire will show.

by howie » Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:24 pm

SP800001 continues. Mounting the body.

I taped the rattle pan down, screwed the chassis to the board, I do not want any thing to move!

This is my body height contraption. Oops! As you can see, I took too much from the body. I will add to the height by mounting the body on top of some double sponge tape.

I put double stick tape over the holes in the mounting plate to hold the pins in place. I am using a double stick sponge tape to add the proper height to the body, making the body a little higher than the bottom of the chassis.

Body mounted. I add automotive goop to the pins and set the body and let dry for a day at least. I have to do this in the shop as my wife will get an immediate head ache from the fumes if I do it in the house.

by howie » Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:53 am

SP800001. Trimming of the body, front tires and rear wheel wells. This body was warped toward the back. I grabbed a hold of it and twisted in the opposite direction, I wasn't shy in doing it as it was quite a twist!

After cutting the body down to the rules, 1.875" for 1/24th. bodies. This is how it stands over the chassis. The chassis has been set at .055" clearance. Next cutting down the front tires and grinding out the wheel wells.

This is how I cone tires, with a fingernail sandpaper file. I also cut down the front tires from 1.085" to .982". Rules say you can cut the tires to .938"/15/16".

After coning tires to .250" as the rules allow. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.

This is how the body now sits over the chassis after grinding out the rear wheel wells. All wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs. I want to mount the body first.

by howie » Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:34 am

SP800001 continues. The making of independent rolling front wheels. I like to make the front tires roll independent of one another. First step is to cut the axle to proper length. Next solder a washer on one end of the axle, then remove the set screw of the wheel next to the washer. Install axle, spacers wheels and only use the set screw in the wheel on the opposite end of the washer and tighten. To maintain the washer on the axle while soldering, turn the wheel around and lay the washer against it, solder won't stick to aluminum. After soldering, you may have to take some sandpaper or a file and clean up the axle where the wheel is going to roll.

Kind of an ugly soldering job, but an insert will hide it!

Much better, no?

by howie » Mon Jan 26, 2015 11:19 am

SP800001 continues. The motor is mocked up in these pictures. This is the way I set up the motor, with the gear toward the end of the shaft so as to not let the 54t. gear hit the mount. This motor mount is from Professor Motor and is out of stock, but Beau has one that he used on his SP800001 that is very similar to this mount. This is a 7t. pinion and is almost not tight enough against the gear so I think before I run this chassis I may have to lengthen the slot in the mount slightly or go to an 8t. gear, we will see. This is the right angle for this motor so it does not interfere with the rattle pan and stays clear of the right rear tire. This as you may have noticed is not a NASCAR open 16D, but the mounting is the same.