The tape clearly shows where the holes should be drilled through the body for the pins.

I use the dress maker's pin to make a small indentation to keep my drill bit from slipping while starting to drill.

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The NASTE Forum → Posts by wb0s
The tape clearly shows where the holes should be drilled through the body for the pins.

I use the dress maker's pin to make a small indentation to keep my drill bit from slipping while starting to drill.

After the aluminum tape is marked the body can be placed on the block. Be sure to maintain the correct front to rear orientation in relation to which side of the body/chassis you are working on. Many times there are slight differences between left side and right side chassis dimensions.

Place the body bottom side down flat against the block, and slide it up against the aluminum tape. Be sure the leading edge of the tape lines up with the referrence mark for the leading edge of the chassis. The tape will hold the body in place on the block.

With the side of the chassis stuck to the aluminum tape, with your finger lightly rub the tape against the chassis pin tubes to leave an impression in the tape. I then use dress makers pins to punch a hole through the aluminum tape and into the pin tubes. This marks the pin tube holes in relation to the chassis position.


Mark both pin tube holes and remove the chassis from the block. After removing the chassis you have a piece of aluminum tape attached to the side of the block with the chassis pin tube locations clearly marked. Again, I do this one side at a time.

Then I place the chassis, bottom side down onto the set up block and slide it over against the aluminum tape. The side of the chassis is placed against the sticky part of the tape, with the leading edge of the chassis even with the leading edge of the tape. The tape holds the chassis in place. I do one side at a time.


I then cut a short strip of aluminum tape approximately the length of the side of the car body.

I then stick the aluminum tape to the side of the set up block with half the length of the tape positioned above the block.


I first test fit the body on the chassis. After aligning the chassis with the body wheel well openings, I marked on the body with a silver Sharpie, where the leading edge of the chassis sat. Many bodie's wheel well openings align evenly with the edges of the chassis, this one did not. The photos show the chassis leading edge referrence point mark on the bottom of the rocker panel.


I took these photos while mounting a 1/32 body on a custom chassis, but the procedure works for any scale body/chassis combination.


I used a set up block as a working platform, but any flat piece of wood or plastic would work.
For years I have had difficulty mounting hard plastic bodies on chassis using a pin/tube style body mounting system. Pin tube mounts work great for clear bodies before you paint them, but what if you are looking to mount or re-mount a body that is already painted? Or worse yet a model car type body you can't see through at all?
Through the years I've tried it all, careful measurement, a marking/cut out guide, marking the bodies on the inside while sitting on the chassis, even using a bright light from inside the body to try to highlight the tube positions. Well I think I have finally come up with something that works accurately, first time, everytime!
The key tool in this process is aluminum tape. If you don't have any of this stuff I suggest you get some. I use this tape for many different things, holding chassis pieces in place while soldering, marking and set up, repairs, and even for detailing to simulate aliminim parts. It is a little expensive, but the large rolls it comes in will last forever!

OUCH!
No matter how "hammered" I got, I never saw it up to 8 inches!
OOOOOOOOOOOOOHHH........Cool!
Did what???
Did what???
up
The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
by howie » Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:37 am
Here is a cure for keeping tires from drying out: During the off season and anytime that a car is going to sit for awhile, I take the rear tires off and put them in a zip lock bag and put them in the freezer in the garage. I also do that with the tires that are in stock to be sold.
The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
by wb0s » Sat Sep 28, 2013 2:35 pm
Check out the photos Howie took of Don Garlit's Museum in Florida here:
http://m1205.photobucket.com/albums/wb0 … %20Museum/
To view the Don Garlits pictures at your own speed, click on the site, then scroll to the bottom of that page and click on "view full website", then click on any picture and a page will come up to where you can look at each picture as long as you want.
The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
by beaufrazier » Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:25 pm
Thanks for the kind words. We're always looking at ways to increase the involvement in our racing programs. It was a fun evening of racing with you guys. Bad Bob was amazing with his new track record for Can Am, 3.97. The first sub 4.0 of any class at Rapid Raceway. Congrat's BB.....
by pauls slots » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:02 am
I just wanted to say that we all had a great time at Howies last night, nice folks and very nice competion and great
cars, also I'm new to this track and race program, and I want to thank Beau for looking at the possibility of a new body that I want to incorperate into his CanAm class.....this shows me he wants involvement, very nice man!....anyway thanks to all, and Great job hosting! Lets do it again!
The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
by wb0s » Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:56 pm
This is TooBad Motorplex located in Fairview, Oregon. TooBad got it's name as a direct result of a race held on February 16, 2008. This was the initial race on a six lane 1/24 track that was moved to Fairview from Roseburg. The six lane track was named The Bullring due to it's tight but fast layout design. During that first action packed, problematic race on the Bullring, a common phrase was heard throughout the evening. The phrase was too bad, as in too bad for you! After that first race the phrase became the name that stuck. The track didn't stick, and was sold and returned to Roseburg, Oregon.
TooBad Motorplex is actually home to two tracks. One track being a three lane routed HO track, which has been temporarily sidelined from competition, and the three lane routed 1/32 track pictured here. This 1/32 track has a lap length of 84 feet 5 inches, and varies less than 3 inches from the inside lane to the outside lane. The track surface is grey latex paint over a base coat of Rustoleum Magnetic Primer. The Magnetic Primer base coat gives the track a metallic base heavy enough to provide magnetic traction to cars equipped with downforce traction magnets. Electrical contact to the cars is provided by copper tape. The track is powered by a Tenma variable voltage 25 amp power supply. Lap counting and timing is controlled by a Trackmate system for Windows.
Construction on TooBad's 1/32 track started on May 1, 2010. It took a long two years to get the track to a race ready point. The first race held on the 1/32 track was the SCX Proxy on May 27, 2012. Since that first race the track has kept a busy schedule, hosting NASTE Point Series Championship races, as well as evening races on odd dated Thursdays. As a newly developing class for Odd Thursday Racing, 1/24 BRM Porsche 962s have made appearances, demonstarting the versatility of the TooBad 1/32 track.

The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
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