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Yes, thanks Rico!

That knife is my go to all purpose tool! When damage needs to be done it'll do it! Between that and my saws-all, I'm good to go!

I'm going to try to get some serious work done this week. I have no schedule yet because I'm also trying to work in days to take my Granddaughter driving. The driving days are harder to schedule because of my Granddaughter's spur of the moment schedule!

With the two temporary legs attached the curve is stable standing alone.

The curve is positioned to maintain 18 inches clearance from the other portions of the track to allow for turn marshals. Turn marshals will be able to access all portions of the track without crawling! No more hands and knees stuff for us old guys!

This is where the hairpin will sit in relation to the rest of the track. I will be adding about 12 feet overall to the lap length. The next step is to build the tabletop portion tying in the space between the curve and the rest of the track.

Nice starting grid Rico!

Friday morning. Gonna be hot today. Coffee'd up and headed out to the shop early. I was able to complete one of the changes I had in mind for the track. When we moved the track into my shop I kept it away from the back wall leaving space between the back straight and the work benches. With turn marshal access to the backside of the track I was able to eliminate the need for the turn marshal "hole" on the right side of the track. After taking some measurements I decided I could also eliminate the turn marshal "hole" on the left side of the track inside the banked curve. I figured I could take 16" out of the infield without losing any structural strength in the table. So the music was turned up, and out came the saws-all!

This is what the section of track looked like before I got started.

This is where the surgery took place.

I had to remove one 2x4 frame rail. It was a short section of 2x4 table frame work, and there was a 4x4 post on either side. Even without any further bracing there would not have been any structural strength loss. The MDF track is screwed down over a 1/2" plywood table top.

I race one of the old original Hanna Econo chassis. If I were to build another chassis for this class or the similar classes, I'd build it to the original Hanna dimensions. This provides the maximum possible chassis width and weight, which has been proven to be a great performer through the years. The rules really don't allow for modifications to the original Hanna chassis design. I pick bodies that fit the chassis or will fit with just a little stretching, there are plenty of bodies that fit the original chassis specs. Bodies that require a narrower chassis or different wheelbase may be giving up some performance, you won't know until you actually race it. To me that's a lot of "maybe" for the work involved to build it. I'd just as soon go with a proven chassis for these classes.

Will do Tommy! Thanks!

Very cool looking cars! The first one I ever saw was the Tyco HO slot car.

Here's where the day ended. Driver's stations and controller hookups removed.

This is the hairpin turn that will be coming off next and relocated to the end of the new track extensions.

The controller hookups on the other hand were an entirely different matter! I have had a lot of different tracks through the years and I've seen all kinds of controller hookups. I would say the majority of them have been, and usually are equipped with some sort of screw or bolt set up for the controller alligator clips to connect to. This set up usually works fine but, I have seen instances where the screws or bolts in this type of set loosen causing bad electrical connections. That potential problem was addressed in this design by using what appears to be threaded rod, or extra long screws where the heads were cut off after installation. The threaded rods extend all the way through the 3 1/2" dimension of the tracks 2x4 frame, being exposed for access through holes cross-drilled through the 1 1/2" dimension of the 2x4. The threaded rods appear to have also been epoxied into place inside the holes. Needless to say these were not easy to remove!

I'm tellin' ya, these rods were LONG!

And so it begins. There have been three official races held on the track since it was moved here in January of 2019, one PASER race, and two OSCAR races. The track performed well with only a couple minor glitches, those being braid issues due to the age of the track. Although most of the braid is still in good shape, due to the track's age the glue securing the braid is starting to lose it's bond.

Since I started this thread in March I have been working on the shop as far as sorting and organizing slot cars, parts, and miscellaneous. Today I decided I was close enough to organized to start work on the track. I have an OSCAR race scheduled for December, so I feel it is time to get started.

Since part of my renovation plans call for new driver's stations and controller hookups, today I removed the driver's stations and disconnected the track wiring. A portion of the track will be rewired to accommodate the new driver station locations and new controller hookups.

All of the track revisions are being made to this end of the track.

These original controller hookups will be replaced by a set up originally designed by my friend Hugh Ellsworth in the late 80's, when he helped me with my first 1/24 track which was a major rebuild.

Sounds like a great plan and big project Doc!