Friday morning. Gonna be hot today. Coffee'd up and headed out to the shop early. I was able to complete one of the changes I had in mind for the track. When we moved the track into my shop I kept it away from the back wall leaving space between the back straight and the work benches. With turn marshal access to the backside of the track I was able to eliminate the need for the turn marshal "hole" on the right side of the track. After taking some measurements I decided I could also eliminate the turn marshal "hole" on the left side of the track inside the banked curve. I figured I could take 16" out of the infield without losing any structural strength in the table. So the music was turned up, and out came the saws-all!

This is what the section of track looked like before I got started.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2748IFC.jpg

This is where the surgery took place.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2767IFC.jpg

I had to remove one 2x4 frame rail. It was a short section of 2x4 table frame work, and there was a 4x4 post on either side. Even without any further bracing there would not have been any structural strength loss. The MDF track is screwed down over a 1/2" plywood table top.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2769IFC.jpg

1,227

(2 replies, posted in Cars)

Another cool car Mitch!

1,228

(5 replies, posted in Modifications)

I race one of the old original Hanna Econo chassis. If I were to build another chassis for this class or the similar classes, I'd build it to the original Hanna dimensions. This provides the maximum possible chassis width and weight, which has been proven to be a great performer through the years. The rules really don't allow for modifications to the original Hanna chassis design. I pick bodies that fit the chassis or will fit with just a little stretching, there are plenty of bodies that fit the original chassis specs. Bodies that require a narrower chassis or different wheelbase may be giving up some performance, you won't know until you actually race it. To me that's a lot of "maybe" for the work involved to build it. I'd just as soon go with a proven chassis for these classes.

1,229

(5 replies, posted in Modifications)

Hey Tommy, I don't recall if anything has been posted regarding the building of a Bob Hanna style Econo Car Chassis. The Econo chassis is the same chassis design required for the Sportsman Class. The Early Modified chassis as raced at Howie's are the same but with narrowed side pans to allow the mounting of the narrow modified bodies.

Here's a post with chassis photos:
http://naste.org/forum/viewtopic.php?id=858

.090" brass strip is used for the side pans and center section, and the wheelbase is 4.5".

Will do Tommy! Thanks!

1,231

(1 replies, posted in Cars)

They look pretty cool.

1,232

(8 replies, posted in Cars)

Very cool looking cars! The first one I ever saw was the Tyco HO slot car.

Thanks Rico, you are now on my list!

Here's where the day ended. Driver's stations and controller hookups removed.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2764ICF.jpg

This is the hairpin turn that will be coming off next and relocated to the end of the new track extensions.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2765ICF.jpg

So after 3 hours on my creeper I finally had all the threaded rods removed, and the controller hookups stripped out.

Here's my view for 3 hours...
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2761ICF.jpg

Here's those pesky rods all herded together...Each one had to be double nutted to get them out!
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2763ICF.jpg

The controller hookups on the other hand were an entirely different matter! I have had a lot of different tracks through the years and I've seen all kinds of controller hookups. I would say the majority of them have been, and usually are equipped with some sort of screw or bolt set up for the controller alligator clips to connect to. This set up usually works fine but, I have seen instances where the screws or bolts in this type of set loosen causing bad electrical connections. That potential problem was addressed in this design by using what appears to be threaded rod, or extra long screws where the heads were cut off after installation. The threaded rods extend all the way through the 3 1/2" dimension of the tracks 2x4 frame, being exposed for access through holes cross-drilled through the 1 1/2" dimension of the 2x4. The threaded rods appear to have also been epoxied into place inside the holes. Needless to say these were not easy to remove!
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2757ICF.jpg

I'm tellin' ya, these rods were LONG!
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2758ICF.jpg

It didn't take me long to strip off the side boards and driver's stations.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2750ICF.jpg

After I had the side boards off I disconnected the wiring from the controller hookups. I then removed all the wiring and the control board from the underside of the track table on this portion of the track.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2752ICF.jpg

And so it begins. There have been three official races held on the track since it was moved here in January of 2019, one PASER race, and two OSCAR races. The track performed well with only a couple minor glitches, those being braid issues due to the age of the track. Although most of the braid is still in good shape, due to the track's age the glue securing the braid is starting to lose it's bond.

Since I started this thread in March I have been working on the shop as far as sorting and organizing slot cars, parts, and miscellaneous. Today I decided I was close enough to organized to start work on the track. I have an OSCAR race scheduled for December, so I feel it is time to get started.

Since part of my renovation plans call for new driver's stations and controller hookups, today I removed the driver's stations and disconnected the track wiring. A portion of the track will be rewired to accommodate the new driver station locations and new controller hookups.

All of the track revisions are being made to this end of the track.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2746ICF.jpg

These original controller hookups will be replaced by a set up originally designed by my friend Hugh Ellsworth in the late 80's, when he helped me with my first 1/24 track which was a major rebuild.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2749ICF.jpg

I'm also getting ready to rip and tear on my track Doc, but I will make time to come over and give you a hand when you're ready.

Sounds like a great plan and big project Doc!

1,241

(2 replies, posted in Cars)

Cool stuff Rico! Bummer on the tetanus shot!....Those HURT!!!

1,242

(23 replies, posted in NASTE)

My shop stays nice and cool. I suppose if I keep the overhead door open that won't be the case. But fortunately there is still some left to do with the door closed!

1,243

(23 replies, posted in NASTE)

Thanks for that vote of confidence Doc!

I'm just about ready to start the tear down for the upgrades I'm planning. The 180 degree hairpin should be coming off by the end of next week.

1,244

(23 replies, posted in NASTE)

Just to clarify, the Halloween race does not count for points.

I have not heard of any plans, comments, or ideas about adding tracks to the line up. There are some nice new tracks out there that could surely be added if the interest is there!

1,245

(23 replies, posted in NASTE)

The NASTE Point Series Championship was moved to races held on Odd Thursdays awhile back. The IROC races were no longer scored as part of the Point Series Championship. I feel this is now the best venue and format for the Point Series Championship. There is much more of a competitive feel to the Odd Thursday night races in my opinion, therefore more pertinent to a point series. The IROC races had their own championship.

=======Bill

1,246

(3 replies, posted in Allenbrook Speedway)

Very nice Mitch!

1,247

(23 replies, posted in NASTE)

This might be a good time to start discussing the NASTE 2021 Point Series Championship.

Things we could start thinking about are a start date for the series, any changes that might be made to the format, and the classes to be raced for the championship.

Racing for many of the past series started in September, but with this COVID 19 situation I'm sure everyone has concerns about when to start gathering together.

A tentative date has been set for the annual NASTE Halloween Race. October 31st is on a Saturday this year and Howie has agreed to have Rapid Raceway host the race again this year on that date. Depending on when everyone is comfortable to start getting together the Halloween Race could also be a kick off race for the 20121 season.

Please post up any concerns or ideas you might have! Let's start the dialog!

============Bill

NORTH WEST TRUE SCALE RULES AND CLASSES are listed here:

http://naste.org/forum/viewtopic.php?id=835

Columbia Gorge Championship for Porsche 962 - Class Rules

Bodies:
Bodies will be Team Bluegroove only. No modifications. Use any paint scheme ( no x rated ). Must have driver and tray to cover the entire inside. Team Bluegroove sells exclusively on Ebay. View their store here: https://www.ebay.com/str/TEAM-BLUEGROOV … 7675.l2563

Chassis:
Three choices: any Scholer, Sloting Plus SP800001 or the Scalauto SC-8001c or SC-8002c. The chassis can be ordered from www.proffessormotor.com. No soldering on chassis except the bushings for  the axles. No modifications to chassis except you can cut a cooling hole under the motor. You will need to make your own pans out of any material to be bolted to the "rattle pan" only. You can make a front pan. You can make your own motor mount or stiffen up the stock one if need be. you can stiffen up the "rattle pan", I use J-B weld with piano wire along and across the pan, ( works very well ), May ream out axle housings to fit American bushings/bearings. Track clearance will be .055". Bushings only for front axles and bushings or bearings for the rear axles.

Motor:
Only Pro Slot motor  #PS2101, #PS2001 and the #PS2003 motors, as well as the Parma sealed S16D. No shunts. You may use bearings on both ends of motor.

Tires: all tires will be black. Front min. diameter is 15/16"X.400" min. wide. The front tires we use are ordered from www.eagledist.com. Part # 400 made by Pro Track. tires can be coned down to .250" and coated. Rear tires min. diameter is 1.0", part #N244, also Pro Track from Eagle. You do not have to use these tires, just a suggestion, they use 3/32nd. axles. Inserts for the wheels are nice but not mandatory.

Lights:
Lights are optional. Absolutely no extremely bright lights, keep the lights in perspective of the scale, ( this will be a tech item! )  No other lights, reflecting paint or reflecting tape of any kind.

Tracking:
Front not to exceed 3.250" from outside of tires. Back not to exceed 3.310" from outside of tires.

These rules can be changed or added to as needed.

1,250

(2 replies, posted in Cars)

That looks great Mitch!

That body was actually from my stash!