And here she is in all her naked glory!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2975IFC.jpg

They just might work as a flute, but they're kinda small..........

So today I quit waffling on whether or not to replace ALL the track braid. It's ALL gone!

I put in a good 7 hours today! That's like a full week of work for me! My original plan for the day was to start rerouting the braid recess with just a skim cut to prepare it for new paint and then new braid. To be honest it went so fast I finished pulling off all the old braid and rerouting the braid recesses on the entire track! The skim cut really was the way to go. I know from experience I would have spent at least a week trying to hand scrape and clean the recesses in preparation for gluing down the new braid, and the final outcome would not have been nearly as good. I do still have one area of concern, the underpass. My router will not fit under the banked overpass, and Kirk Smith already warned me about trying to remove the bank or any portion of it. I have an idea that I will research tomorrow.

Here's some more things I learned today:
1. Don't use staples on anything that may have to come off in the future. It's a B removing staples from wood!
2. When routing braid recesses on a finished track use a router with a small diameter base. The smaller diameter base will keep the recess more consistent through portions of the track that are not perfectly level.
3. Don't ever build an overpass with less than 12 inches of clearance!

Here's why cleaning up the braid recess with a router is the way to go:

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2969IFC.jpg

It probably would have taken me a week to clean all the braid recess by hand. I did the whole track in 7 hours!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2972IFC.jpg

NICE RICO!

YES! These are to be used for common connection points of the negative contact braids for each lane at each power tap. One hole on each end for mounting points to the underside of the tabletop, four tinned holes for braid connection points, one tinned hole for a jumper wire to the controller hook-up for brakes, and one ear for connection to the main ground that runs the length of the tabletop. This is all just further development of a track wiring system Hugh Ellsworth designed in the early 1980s.

I've been kinda waffling back and forth over re-braiding the entire track or just the new section. After performing some closer inspections today I've decided to bite the bullet and re-braid the entire track. A lot of the existing braid is still good but, the braid adhesive is so old, and has been subjected to so many chemicals in the form of cleaning solvent and tire compound, the adhesive has pretty much lost its adhesive qualities. It many spots it is just kind of an icky goo under the braid, and in other spots it is a crispy, brittle, thin coating. After much research I am going to perform a light skim cut of the braid recess using my special bit for that task. I have been asking a professional track builder for suggestions all during this renovation process and he recommends a skim cut, just a couple thousandths or so to get down to clean wood for the new braid. I can use my router to do this everywhere but under the overpass. I will have to clean the recesses in that area by hand as best I can. Using the router will be much quicker than trying to clean the recess by hand! After the skim cut I will have to re-paint the braid recess, but I still think it will be a better and quicker process than just trying to clean the recess.

So here's an extra credit question: What will these two parts be used for? (A hint: I will need a total of 6 of these).

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2965IFC.jpg

Today I finished wiring up the controller hook-ups at each driver's station. This was my view for most of the morning. One improvement today over Tuesday, I did not fall asleep on my creeper today!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2960IFC.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2964IFC.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2954IFC.jpg

1,156

(26 replies, posted in NASTE)

I would like to suggest we move the Halloween race date to Friday October 30th.  Does anybody have any objections?

1,157

(26 replies, posted in NASTE)

Thank you Howie! We really appreciate you hosting our Halloween races and being so flexible!

SO.......would there be a better day or time to reschedule the Halloween race so more people can participate?

=========Bill

1,158

(33 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Here's some great race photos taken by Howie:

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/Rapid50010032020a.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/Rapid50010032020b.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/Rapid50010032020c.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/Rapid50010032020d.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/Rapid50010032020e.jpg

1,159

(33 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Howie, it was another great event at Rapid Raceway! Really good turn-out and some awesome competition! Thanks for puting on another fantastic Rapid 500!

Send me some photos and I'll get them posted!

1,160

(26 replies, posted in NASTE)

So far, counting me and I will have to leave at 7 pm if it's a Saturday race, we have 2 for sures and 3 maybes.

I'm ready to start reinstalling the wiring. I'll be rewiring some of it.

Then I will be ready to rebraid the track. I'm thinking I will be rebraiding the entire track. The track is 18 years old now and most of the glue holding the existing braid down is giving up, it's old and brittle with little to no grip. The braid pulls up easily and is prone to damage during races.

After I finish laying down the braid I need to repaint some of the lane striping.

Then reinstall the side boards and the under skirting.

Then it is break in time!

Thanks Doc.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2940IFC.jpg

1,164

(26 replies, posted in NASTE)

This year's Halloween race is scheduled for Saturday October 31st. I'd like to try and get a count of people planning to attend. I know there are some people that have other things planned for that day or evening, myself being one of them. If I can get a head count and a feeling for people's availability maybe we can determine an optimum start time, or possibly even move the race date to Friday evening if that would work out better?

Please chime in!

=======Bill

Here's a great photo of the field from Howie!  - Thanks Howie!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SpringwaterClassicNASCAR092020.jpg

The photos all ended up on Facebook........unfortunately....

DC -
"The chassis shall consist of 3 pans only: 1 a center pan and 2 a right pan and 3 a left pan. If you make your own chassis it must be a copy of a Hanna chassis using 3 pans with no hinges and inline only - see example photo below. Side pans can move back and forth. No independent movement of the front end from the center pan. Front axle housing must be soldered to the center pan. No part of the chassis may protrude from the body. Front axle must extend through each front wheel and be one piece. Tires can roll independently and coated.  Maximum tracking front and rear: 3.250" measured from outside of tires. "

Well Doc there's only so much I can do...............

I like this controller hook-up for a number of reasons. The wiring is easily soldered to the hook-ups, no screws and nuts to loosen up over time. The copper tubing offers excellent electrical contact to the alligator clips. The copper tubing hook-ups are very solidly mounted. These set ups are very easy to make at very little cost. The use of the copper tubing for controller hook-ups was originally thought up by Hugh Ellsworth in the early '80s. Over the years I have refined his original concept.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2935IFC.jpg

Here's a closer look at the hook-ups. Thanks to Beau for the cool discs for correct controller wire connection.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2932IFC.jpg

I get questions about how to connect the controller alligator clips on these hook-ups. Here's a photo of the clips connected with the boots pulled back:

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2933IFC.jpg

The hook-ups work fine even with the boots in place.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2934IFC.jpg

This is what the driver's stations will look like when completed:

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2931IFC.jpg

I need to finish painting the faceplates for the controller hook-ups for the other lanes.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2938IFC.jpg

Thanks Bob for an AWESOME race! That really was a lot of fun!

I haven't posted an update for awhile so here it is. I've been working on the track most every day, mostly on painting. The track surface is painted, color sanded, and ready for the braid to be laid. The driver's stations are built and have three coats of white base color on them. Today I applied the first coats of color to the driver's stations to identify which lanes each serves. I also remounted the electrical track control center that houses all the relays and connections for the lap counting system.

COLOR!....Something other than tan or white!
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2925IFC.jpg

As a track owner I DO NOT like having problems or issues during a race! It can happen but what makes it even worse is having to crawl around under the track trying to figure out the source of the problem. With the track controls mounted here with easy access, it will make performing any necessary diagnostics much easier! I am planning to redo/redesign all the electrical connections and hardware that connects the wiring to the track braid and controller hookups. Part of the plan is to use fewer nuts, bolts, and screws!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_2926IFC.jpg

Stan, if you don't have the 25 ohm brake pot on your controller don't use it for the heavier 1/24 cars. If you have a NEO or your network is for 1/32 cars it probably won't have very good response for 1/24. I know Zack has had issues with  a Difalco controller set up for 1/32 cars and replaced the heat sink with the larger one. These heavy cars get controllers hot!

I can also bring an extra controller.