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Thanks Doc!

My plan is to have the track available after Christmas to those that would like to come over and run some laps. I'm looking at small groups no large race crowds. If you'd like to come by and get some laps in shoot me an email or give me a call and we'll set up a day and time.

This offer is open to anyone interested in running on the newly reconfigured track.

Now that I can't argue with!

Thanks Doc, I really appreciate it!

You're absolutely right! I'll make that swap!

I just seemed to fit...........

Great story & vid!

Thanks!

That's true Mitch, and my set up is probably overkill, But I've noticed with tracks for 1/24 cars you never know who or what might show up to play. There are still guys out there that email me saying they have some old slot car stuff they'd like to bring out to run. There are still thousands of those old Parma and even Russkit metal trigger controllers out there just waitin' to come over and play!

Getting closer to done everyday! Yesterday I finished up the driver's stations. Kirk Smith installed controller "hangers" when he built the track. He saw photos of some he liked and had them custom fabricated here in town. To keep controllers from shorting out when placed in the brackets, he applied a rubberized coating to them. The coating was pretty well worn off when I got the track. I decided to try for a '60's look by covering them with a metallic or metal flake type of fabric that was popular back in the day. I still had to figure a way to insulate the edge of the cut out from the controllers to prevent the shorting issue. A couple hours at Parkrose Hardware provided me with a solution. I found some 1 1/2 inch rubberized hole plugs. They fit nice and snug and after a little Dremel work and some Goop, the hangers were ready to install!

Rob stopped by to show me the latest cars he completed. Keep in mind these are restorations, not new builds. Rob takes cars that were poorly built or broken, takes them completely apart, and repaints and rebuilds them. It's amazing what he accomplishes, especially considering what he starts with! I can't build models this nice even starting with new kits!

This Cox Chaparral was originally painted yellow using a brush!

Rob said the headlight area of this car was particularly difficult because of how well the lenses were originally glued into place, and the repair that the nose of the body required.

Ok, ok......

My goal for this renovation was not to end up with a new track. I wanted to retain the originality and history of this track, but make a few improvements. On my list were: 1. more room for driver's at the driver's stations and an indicator light to let them now they had power at their controller hookup. 2. Redo the wiring to make it more easily diagnosable in case of electrical problems. 3. Eliminate the "hole" needed to turn marshal the esses. 4. Move the deadman's or hairpin turn further away from the banked curve to save wear and tear on the braid and the slot. I feel I have met my goals.

Inside or outside?

Well it's been a long four month process but today at 11:00 A.M. I made the final electrical connection. Inslot's Checkered Flag Raceway is now again operational!

After completing hundreds of solder and mechanical connections I threw the switch and the track was up and running with no issues. I ended up rewiring the entire track, excluding the main control panel. Was it really necessary? Probably not. Is it over kill? Definitely, but I really HATE having problems during a race!

Originally the track had 2 power taps. It now has 7. All the wiring has been color coded and designed for ease of diagnostics just incase of an issue. The use of terminal blocks will ease the reconnection of any necessary braid replacement in the future.

Power tap 1 and driver's station connections for Yellow & White lanes:

Power tap 2 and driver's station connections for Red & Blue lanes:

Power tap 3 at the downhill exit straight off the bank:

Power tap 4 at the start of the lower straight after the esses:

Power tap 5 at the end of the lower straight at the entrance to the chicane:

Power tap 6 at the beginning of the back straight after the lead on curve:

Power tap 7 at the end of the back straight at the entrance to the bank:

This is the wiring for the lap counter section:

Thanks for the update Chris. Fantastic news for your folks. I'm sure the fact that your Dad stays in such great shape helps a lot with his recovery! I don't think I could have kept up with your Dad when I was 30. Your Mom is probably just as fit I would imagine.