526

(7 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Thanks to Bill, we now have another choice in chassis for the non builders ( Nationwide ). This chassis is SP800001, Sloting Plus makes this chassis and it is a very close copy of the Scholer, with improvements. It is made of stainless steel. For a closer look, check out the page " New chassis available for Rapid Raceway" under Rapid Raceway on this site.

Ladies and gentlemen: I just read this post, WOW is on my mind. I know for a fact that you will never please everyone.
But I try to please as many as possible.
In the summer which is the off season for Rapid Raceway is when I do my scheduling. If you decide to have the BIG RACE here we can schedule it at that time. I will gladly drink coffee, eat cookies, have a rum ball or two, BS ( the more rum balls, the more BS I do ), run the computer and keep the coffee going and watch the action on the track and basically kick back and not be concerned about competing, in other words, I don't always need to compete to have fun, especially if there is a rum ball or two to be had and a good many racers to BS with.
So the offer is there, if you decide to race elsewhere, that is ok too, just send me a rum ball!!

SP800001. More of the same. It is taking shape.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8024.jpg

SP80001. A coat of primer.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8023.jpg

SP800001 continues. After sanding and adding another coat of putty and sanding again it was time to put on a primer coat. I start out with 320 grit and finish with 600 grit, which will fill up with putty in no time. I am still not happy after I put on the magnifying glasses, I can see glitches. I will work at it 'till satisfied.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8022.jpg

Are these not flairs on a 1 to 1 NASCAR?

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8021.jpg

After centering the chassis ( the chassis does move from side to side somewhat ) this is how much tire will show.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8020.jpg

Don't be shy about using plenty of putty!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8019.jpg

What is left after cutting.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8018.jpg

SP800001 continues. Now the fun part. Make sure the tracking is right on before continuing. I marked the flairs with a Sharpie on the inside and using a disc on a Dremel I rough cut them. Then I added the "green stuff" ( back in the day there was a green body putty for 1 to 1 cars called Green Stuff ). I used plenty as there is more at the hobby shop and I want these flairs to blend well with the body. This green putty is supposed to be stronger than normal hobby putty. I have it on my TA-2 Mustang and so far it hasn't cracked but I didn't put it on as thick as on this body. The putty smells strong too but I can do this in the hobby room as the wife is gone for the day. I'll take it to the shop to dry for a day. The picture is marking the inside of the flairs for cutting.
I have noticed flairs on 1 to 1 NASCAR's. So we are not really making something up, we are just exploiting the situation!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8017.jpg

SP800001. Back out to the shop to add the Goop. The body will have to set a day or so.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8016.jpg

SP800001. I set the flairs as close to the tires as possible knowing the body will move up and down while on the track.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8008.jpg

SP800001 continues. I set the body up on the chassis and used a marking pen to mark where I needed to make more room in the rear wheel wells, the front wheel wells did not need any material taken away. I use a sheet of .030" plastic to make the flairs. Using a pair of scissors I cut about 1/4" wide and long enough to fill the wheel wells. I hold the flairs while I Super Glue them to the body. I like Super Glue as it sets up fast, I leave a small lip on the inside of the wheel wells for the glue to stick to and only glue the inside, well unless you accidentally get glue on your fingers and then your fingers stick to the body! I will have to do more sanding of the body than I planned on! I use Goop over the Super Glue as a final step.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8006.jpg

SP800001. I use Automotive Goop to hold the pins to the body. I put the Goop on the pins, stretch the body over making sure the wheels line up with the wheel wells and let it set for a day at least. I need to do this in the shop as my wife will get an immediate head ache if I do it in the house!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP824.jpg

SP800001. I use double stick tape to hold the pins in place during mounting of the body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP823.jpg

SP800001. Oops! I took too much off the body according to my body height contraption. I will make up for it when I mount the body using a thin piece of double stick tape under the body as it is in the final stages of mounting.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP822.jpg

SP800001 continues. Mounting the body. I do not want anything to move, so I tape the rattle pan down and using a screw I screw the chassis down to the board.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP821.jpg

Now ready to mount the body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP820.jpg

I cut the mounting plate, drilled the holes and counter sunk them and mounted the plate to the chassis. The chassis plate is slotted so the plate can move forward or backward, I set it in the middle so it can go either way if need be after mounting body.

I have to cut this much off the plate to make it fit properly as this chassis is as narrow as it will go so it can fit the Chevy body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP819.jpg

This is the only pieces I will use from this kit as the bolts supplied were not counter sunk.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP818.jpg

SP800001 continues. Getting set up to mount the body. This is the kit I will use. Add $4.25 to the bill, Professor Motor has this kit.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP817.jpg

This is how the body fits over the chassis with the front tires cut down and the rear wells ground out. The wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs, but I want to mount the body first.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP816.jpg

SP80001. This is how the body sat before cutting the front tires down and grinding the rear wheel wells out. The chassis is set at .055" as the rules allow.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP815.jpg

SP800001. After coning. I left .250" or 1/4" flat surface as the rules state. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP814.jpg