Now ready to mount the body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP820.jpg

I cut the mounting plate, drilled the holes and counter sunk them and mounted the plate to the chassis. The chassis plate is slotted so the plate can move forward or backward, I set it in the middle so it can go either way if need be after mounting body.

I have to cut this much off the plate to make it fit properly as this chassis is as narrow as it will go so it can fit the Chevy body.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP819.jpg

This is the only pieces I will use from this kit as the bolts supplied were not counter sunk.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP818.jpg

SP800001 continues. Getting set up to mount the body. This is the kit I will use. Add $4.25 to the bill, Professor Motor has this kit.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP817.jpg

This is how the body fits over the chassis with the front tires cut down and the rear wells ground out. The wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs, but I want to mount the body first.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP816.jpg

SP80001. This is how the body sat before cutting the front tires down and grinding the rear wheel wells out. The chassis is set at .055" as the rules allow.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP815.jpg

SP800001. After coning. I left .250" or 1/4" flat surface as the rules state. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP814.jpg

PS80001 continues. I cut the body down to 1.875 as the rules allow for 1/24th. cars. This body was warped toward the rear and I grabbed it and twisted in the opposite direction and I wasn't shy about it as it was quite the twist! I turned the front tires down to .982", down from 1.085". Rules say you can take them down to .938"/15/16"  I take a finger nail file made with sand paper to cone the tires.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP813.jpg

I am enjoying this build. Next installment will be turning the front wheels down and coning them.
I should let people know Bill found this chassis, and I couldn't wait to get my hands on one! I have been looking for a chassis to replace the Scholer as we aren't sure we will be able to get them any more as Professor Motor has been out of stock on the one we use most for almost a year.

No more ugly soldering showing up!!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP812.jpg

Finished axle.  A nice looking insert will hide this bad soldering job!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP811.jpg

Project 800001 continues. I like to make independent rolling front wheels. Step one is to cut the axle to proper length. Find a washer that is suitable. Install the wheel on the axle backwards and set the washer on the wheel as solder won't stick to aluminum, solder the washer to the axle. Remove the set screw in the wheel that is going to ride against the washer. Install the axle on the chassis and tighten the set screw in the wheel on the opposite end of the washer. The soldering job is not pretty, but install an insert and out of sight it goes!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP810.jpg

SP800001 continues. Installing the motor. This is the way I mounted this motor with the gear toward the end of the shaft so as to keep the 54t gear from hitting the motor mount. The motor mount is from Professor Motor and they are out of stock, however Beau has another similar mount. The motor is at the correct angle to clear the right rear tire and stay clear of the rattle pan. The seven tooth gear is not quite meshed close enough so if I were to use it, I would lengthen the mounting groove in the mount or go to an 8t. pinion. If you go to a 52 tooth gear which is popular, you may have to drill another hole in the chassis to make it work, that is what Beau did. You may have noticed that this is not an open S16D, but the mounting is the same.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP809.jpg

490

(137 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Well happy 60th. young man!!
Sorry guys, I just can't get into the Manta Ray spirit, although I do like the wheels, beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder. I do like the Car Craft mag. with the nice Ford pickup on the cover. I also like the Barracuda kit also.
I wish you had the room for that track too Bill. If you bought it and stored it in monthly fee storage place you could convince Dianne you REALLY need a place for a track to avoid the monthly fee!

Small flairs are in order, I will add them and primer the car when done. The body has yet to be cut down. As I am a Pontiac guy when it comes to NASCAR, this is the first Chevy I have ever built for slot racing! In any class! I think it is going to turn out nice and run well in the Nationwide series. Of course we haven't raced a stainless steel chassis yet!
I want to take time to thank Bill  for down loading all these pictures.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP808.jpg

The chassis set up with axles, tires etc.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP807.jpg

SP800001 project continues. Installed the axles, tires etc. Set the tracking, front to the max of 3.170" and rear to the max of 3.190". As you will see in the pictures, this car is going to need small flairs. I use brass tubing for spacers with an ID of .095" or so and an OD of .125".
Money wise the parts in this installment are as follows: axles $2.25 each X 2 = $4.50. Front tires  $8.00. Rear tires  $10.40. Brass bushings for the front axle  $1.50. Gear  $3.50. Rear axle bearings  $9.60.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP806.jpg

I guess I can only submit one picture per post, so here is the Monte Carlo.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8p05.jpg

SP800001 continues. I went ahead and bolted the chassis together as the directions are good and no sense in taking pictures of the process. I will say that during the building that the nuts and bolts be at least snugged up or you may be picking them up off the floor as I did because they will unscrew themselves!
I decided to make a Nationwide NASCAR out of this chassis as the TA2 would require me to narrow the pans and I wanted to get a car going asap and that would be just an extra step.
The NASCAR I am using is a Dale Eearnhardt Jr. 2002 Chev. Monte Carlo.
I am ordering another chassis to do the TA2 using a snap kit of the 2015 Mustang.

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8p04.jpg

SP800001 continues. The axle holes need to be ground out about .007" bigger diameter to make the reducer bushings fit so you can use 3/32nd. axles. Doesn't take very long with a Dremel tool. I made these a tight fit and had to squeeze them in with a pair of needle nose pliers. I won't have to solder them in this time!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/SP8p03.jpg

Yes that is a nice  mount, but not for the D cans. I never bothered to look to see if Slot Plus has a mount for the D motors. I have a mount that I ordered from Professor Motor a while back. It is a Plafit #PL1078P and it will fit, I wish I had ordered about 10 of them as Professor Motor is out of stock and has been for quite a while. I also have a mount that Beau gave me that will also fit, however it only has the bottom screw hole for mounting it to the motor. I guess that will work if a person was to make sure the motor is taped or somehow fixed to the chassis.

The SP80001 project. First problem is the motor mount is not good for a D can motor. I have another mount that will work.

http://www.naste.org/members/Howie/SP8p02.jpg

I am going to do a step by step chassis building session of the Slot plus chassis. here as I am doing one on the NWTS site.
This is the package the chassis comes in. All the screws, nuts, etc. come in a little zip lock bag.

http://www.naste.org/members/Howie/SP8p01.jpg

Unfortunately yes, I just checked that out last night. I think it will be a little harder with stainless, but it doesn't look like too much has to be reamed.
I needed to replace a Scholer axle bracket so I ordered an axle bracket from Professor Motor, it is a Motor Modern #11332 and the reducer bushings fit right in.