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by wb0s » Sun Jun 08, 2014 6:32 pm

This is the rear axle mount. The holes for the axle bearings are metric and must be reamed out to accept a bushing to use standard sized bearings for 1/8 or 3/32 axles. The holes can be reamed or enlarged using a round file. Go easy it doesn't take much.

These are the bushings used to convert from metric bearings to standard for 1/8 and 3/32 inch axles. These are made by Slick 7, and the part number is: S7-142. They are sold in pairs.

There are two theaded holes in the rear vertical portion of the brass chassis where the rear axle mount is positioned (left side of the chassis in this photo). Please note that the H rattle pan is installed correctly in this photo!

The rear axle mount is secured to the brass chassis with two allen head cap screws. The mounting holes in the mount are slotted to allow vertical adjustment, which raises the axle up and down to adjust ride height and ground clearance at the bottom of the chassis.

The rear axle mount screws must be tight to keep the axle mount from moving out of position. Again, the application of Blue Locktite is an option.

y wb0s » Sun Jun 08, 2014 3:23 pm

Here's another close up shot of a brass side pan installation on another Scholer chassis. You can also see the steel wire bracing of the H rattle pan.

This is the bottom side of the chassis. You can see how the screws attaching the brass side pans to the H rattle pan are counter sunk into the bottom side of the brass side pan.

Side pans must be cut, ground and filed to fit the chassis. The side pans should have free movement when attached to the H rattle pan. Any interferrence between the pans and the chassis can cause the pans to bind and catch which can have negative effects on handing characteristics. We generally make side pans out of .062 or .090 inch strip brass. Some racers have also had good results using aluminum side pans.

by wb0s » Sun Jun 08, 2014 3:00 pm

After the flat washer is in place, install a nut over the screw to secure the spacer assembly to the brass chassis.

Be sure to use the screws that are long enough to capture the spacer, washer, and nut after the screw is inserted through the brass chassis.

After all four spacer assemblied are secured in place the H rattle pan will be captured and held in place on the top of the brass chassis. The H pan should move freely up and down or verically above the brass chassis. The brass chassis stops the downward movement of the H rattle pan, and the flat washers stop the upward movement of the H rattle pan. Be sure all the srews and nuts are tight!

by wb0s » Sun Jun 08, 2014 2:41 pm

The short metal spaces are placed over the screws to sit on the brass chassis. These spacers are what allow the rattle pan or H piece to have some vertical movement after the piece has been secured in place. You will use 4 of these spacers for mounting the H rattle pan. The first step in mounting the H rattle pan is installing two of the four mounting screws and spacers.

After the screws and spacers are in place, install a flat washer over the screw. The flat washers will sit on top of the spacers on each of the four screws. Again, only install the two rear screws or the two front screws at this point in the assembly proceedure.

After the flat washers are in place install a nut onto the crew and tighten it down over the flat washer and spacer.

Use a screw driver and wrench or pliers to be sure the pieces are tight. A small amount of Blue Locktite is an option that can be used on the screw threads to ensure the parts will not come loose.

The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months.  =====Bill

by racerbob9 » Sat Nov 05, 2016 12:37 pm

Finally got a GT3 body done! Looking forward to a new season.

by howie » Fri Apr 22, 2016 3:29 pm

In the process of getting Blake a TA2 chassis ready for tomorrow's race. This chassis is a Slotting Plus # SP800001. I used 1/4" brass angle and soldered it to the chassis side mounts. I cut the width of the side mounts to accommodate the body. For the race tomorrow Blake will be taping the body on, but I will make body mounts to do away with the tape method. The race tomorrow for the TA2 is a fun race and so his car will not be completed, but will be racing. This chassis is also going to be used for his NASCAR, the only thing he will have to do is change motors and bring the pans a little farther out, easy to do as they are mounted in a slot to slide in and out! Tracking and wheelbase are the same.

by howie » Thu Apr 14, 2016 9:21 am

Currently working on a new Can-Am car. Don't know what brand this chassis is out of my old chassis drawer but it will be used on this new Lexan body from Blue Groove: Google it. They do a lot of bodies for R/C cars also. This body is a .030" Lexan Chaparral. It is almost like working with a hard body! These bodies should last a long time. In case you want to spray paint, the blue coating prevents over spray on the outside of the body. The blue coating easily peals off. The body is rather narrow for this chassis: 2.970" at the bottom. The chassis is 3.190". So if my math is right I will have to narrow the chassis by .220". The body is really nice and detailed, I see no flaws in it. I already roughed out the wheel wells. Once again I will fabricate an adjustable rear axle mount.

by wb0s » Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:02 pm

I've also been working on my Modified. Howie built me a chassis, which I appreciate greatly, and I am currently working on the body and detail pieces. Here is the body mounting system I used. Using JB Weld I attached traction magnets from 1/32 scale slot cars to the chassis. I Attached small L shaped pieces of sheet metal to the inside of the body, also secured with JB Weld. This system seems to hold well enough I think I'll try it on my Sportsman car also.

by howie » Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:33 am

Making progress on the second F1. A simple "L" bracket out of .032" brass with two holes drilled in it and soldered to the chassis. As you can see this chassis will have adjustable ride height in the rear. I am using the Sloting Plus axle bracket part # SP902633. Next step is an axle set up for each front wheel.

by howie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:11 am

Bob, that Mustang looks very nice.