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by howie » Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:24 pm

SP800001 continues. Mounting the body.

I taped the rattle pan down, screwed the chassis to the board, I do not want any thing to move!

This is my body height contraption. Oops! As you can see, I took too much from the body. I will add to the height by mounting the body on top of some double sponge tape.

I put double stick tape over the holes in the mounting plate to hold the pins in place. I am using a double stick sponge tape to add the proper height to the body, making the body a little higher than the bottom of the chassis.

Body mounted. I add automotive goop to the pins and set the body and let dry for a day at least. I have to do this in the shop as my wife will get an immediate head ache from the fumes if I do it in the house.

by howie » Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:53 am

SP800001. Trimming of the body, front tires and rear wheel wells. This body was warped toward the back. I grabbed a hold of it and twisted in the opposite direction, I wasn't shy in doing it as it was quite a twist!

After cutting the body down to the rules, 1.875" for 1/24th. bodies. This is how it stands over the chassis. The chassis has been set at .055" clearance. Next cutting down the front tires and grinding out the wheel wells.

This is how I cone tires, with a fingernail sandpaper file. I also cut down the front tires from 1.085" to .982". Rules say you can cut the tires to .938"/15/16".

After coning tires to .250" as the rules allow. I will coat them later with clear coat paint.

This is how the body now sits over the chassis after grinding out the rear wheel wells. All wheel wells will have to be ground further to install flairs. I want to mount the body first.

by howie » Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:34 am

SP800001 continues. The making of independent rolling front wheels. I like to make the front tires roll independent of one another. First step is to cut the axle to proper length. Next solder a washer on one end of the axle, then remove the set screw of the wheel next to the washer. Install axle, spacers wheels and only use the set screw in the wheel on the opposite end of the washer and tighten. To maintain the washer on the axle while soldering, turn the wheel around and lay the washer against it, solder won't stick to aluminum. After soldering, you may have to take some sandpaper or a file and clean up the axle where the wheel is going to roll.

Kind of an ugly soldering job, but an insert will hide it!

Much better, no?

by howie » Mon Jan 26, 2015 11:19 am

SP800001 continues. The motor is mocked up in these pictures. This is the way I set up the motor, with the gear toward the end of the shaft so as to not let the 54t. gear hit the mount. This motor mount is from Professor Motor and is out of stock, but Beau has one that he used on his SP800001 that is very similar to this mount. This is a 7t. pinion and is almost not tight enough against the gear so I think before I run this chassis I may have to lengthen the slot in the mount slightly or go to an 8t. gear, we will see. This is the right angle for this motor so it does not interfere with the rattle pan and stays clear of the right rear tire. This as you may have noticed is not a NASCAR open 16D, but the mounting is the same.

by howie » Tue Jan 20, 2015 2:25 pm

SP800001 continues. I put the chassis together as the directions are good and no need to take pictures of the process. I will say as you put this chassis together, at least snug up the bolts etc. or you may find yourself as I did picking them up off the floor as they do unscrew themselves! I also was short a couple special screws, I replaced them with another type screw and made it work. I also had extra nuts, washers and screws. I have decided to make a Nationwide NASCAR out of this chassis. I would have to trim the side pans if I was to do a TA2, and I wanted to get a car done asap. I chose a 2002 Chevy of Dale Earnhardt Jr. I don't remember where I got this kit and it is open and the decals and directions are gone. The parts are still in an unopened bag.
Next I will get into the axles and Motor mount.

This is the Chevy Monte Carlo that will be used for this build.

With another SP800001 chassis I will build this snap kit 2015 Mustang for the TA2 class.

by howie » Sun Jan 18, 2015 6:21 pm

I am going to put together a complete ready to go car ( body installed, no paint ) using the Sloting Plus SP800001 chassis. I will post pictures and keep track of the cost as I go. I am not sure yet if it is going to be a Nationwide NASCAR or TA2. I may add it to the parts rack when completed, at cost for parts as I paid for them.

Comes in a nice package, screws etc. come in a little zip lock bag. $49.95.

First problem: the motor bracket does not fit any motor as advertised on Professor Motor. I have another mount that will work and fit the D can. About $4.00.

by howie » Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:03 am

A Can-Am car by Beau. It is a Ferrari 712. Nice!!

by wb0s » Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:49 pm

Got in some bench time today. And yes, I'm still working on that stinking late model Trans Am Camaro body! I am NOT a good model builder, nor a good body man, but I am making a little progress. Here's wher I'm at today on those #*%@! fender flairs. I think someone with good modelling skills could make the ping pong ball flairs work very well!

The expoxy I applied to the inside of the body around the flairs worked well. I was able to use a Demel tool to grind most of it away, but left just enough to reinforce the bond. I still have a fair amount of fine sanding left to do, but with just rough sanding they seem to be shaping up.

You can see how the round ping pong ball piece makes a nice contour for the flair.

by howie » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:30 am

Bob, that is a very nice looking NASCAR! Bill; I believe you are right on the chassis, the fog in my head is clearing up!

by racerbob9 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:48 am

Here is a 1/25 Thunderbird
Racerbob

Me too! They do really nice work! None of these are pre-painted or over the counter purchased!