Topic: Fly Classics - What I Have Learned
Howdy friends. I've done some research about the upcoming Fly Classics class. Basically cars can be difficult to get and expensive. Parts are close to non-existent from Fly. I sincerely doubt there will ever be new stocks of parts. If we are going to race these cars, we need to be able to repair them since replacements are almost out of the question.
Besides the Fly Classics there is another option that we should include and that is the Sloter line of cars. Here's some pictures:
These are nearly identical to a Fly Classic:
Black Stripe motor, same gears, same tire size on the rear, chassis looks almost identical. These cars fit right in AND are still available for purchase new at some retailers. I recommend them highly.
Here's a link to a guy online that has some for sale.
There's some opportunity for variety here. But it comes with consequences...
Stock gears should be just fine.
Slot.It gears will work. You need a 19MM Spur Gear. There are some choices. You will want to pay attention to the hub size since this will limit the wheels you can use. Wheels must be inside the body and a stock wheel width will not work with a gear that has a longer hub.
The kits are not a bad choice, but once again you will need to make sure of wheels and tires.
So what about TSRF? Those will work too however they come in matched sets and are really designed for 1:24 scale cars. Also you have a MINIMUM gear ratio of about 3.53:1. I'm not sure how well that is going to work against cars running closer to 3:1 ratios. With Slot.It gears you can get 3:1 and lower.
If you decide to go the TSRF route, Fantasy World Tony suggests you get the NSR axles and bushings for a better fit.
You can also use the NSR gears as they will fit. You should probably get both the spur and pinion in that case. If you prefer to use the NSR or TSRF stuff with standard axles, you can probably carefully enlarge the opening on the spur gear to fit.
Slot.It orange end bell, or Black Stripe if you prefer. At 12v the Slot.It motor probably has a little more snap. Above 12v we are going to have issues because the cars will tend to the over-powered side and become difficult to manage. With the Slot.It motor we may want to actually lower the power to 11v or so. I've chosen the Slot.It Orange because it is easy to get and most of us probably already have a few laying around. Fly parts are no longer easy to acquire for these cars. I doubt that situation will ever improve.
4. WHEELS and TIRES
What a hornets nest! We are going to use Indy Grips. That part appears to be certain however which ones you choose are going to depend on your wheel choice. Wheels are going to have to be chosen that work with the gears you pick. However, if you choose the stock wheels and gears you probably want this one:
Here are some hub-less rear wheels that should work as a replacement.
Here are some choices for front wheels though you will probably have to use the Slot.It low-profile zero-grips to get the proper guide depth:
You can change the independent, wobbly fronts by pulling the posts out of the wheels and moving to a solid front axle. Highly recommended in my opinion. If the front wheels are out-of-round you will want to choose a replacement. I suggest one of the ones above with the zero-grips.
5. GUIDE BLADE
The stock guide will work fine, you can also use the Slot.It guides and probably some others.
Stock. No magnet. If anyone is unsure what this means, contact me.
You should probably add some. I would imagine a 100 Gm limit to be sufficient. I'll weigh a few of mine and get some benchmarks.
And there you have it. Questions, comments, have at it. I'll update this as we go along.