1,376

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

George- Dave Kennedy Jr. has several articles on Slot Car Illustrated on how torque is measured. These are located in the forum section. Basically it is just attaching an arm to a motor and using a digital scale measuring the amount of force generated and plugging figure into a mathmatical equation.
Rico

1,377

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

Bill- You make a valid point, but if you read down through this post that there is little agreement on what type of car to run, so what options does that leave?  An IROC series certainly is not the only answer and I for one like to know how the car I'm running is prepared which an IROC series precludes. I believe that you feel the same way, but as a NASTE administrator you must certainly understand some of the reasons the IROC choice was made.  I'm sure that cost was a consideration, but not the only one.  I know that I spent quite a lot of dollars on this slot.it series for upgrades and repairs.  Having to spend less for these types of things leaves more money for other cars or whatever and is certainly welcome in my opinion.
Thanks for listening
Rico

1,378

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

George-  After hearing/reading/feeling some of the initial feedback I thought of virtually the same idea but I was going to cap at $25.00.  So a first timer would pay the race fee of $2.00 plus a car rental of $5.00.  This is assuming that the original $250.00 cost is met.  Let's hear from some people on this......
Rico

1,379

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

Now this is what I'm talkin' about
http://www.naste.org/members/rico/Dsc00162.jpg
http://www.naste.org/members/rico/Dsc00160-1.jpg

1,380

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

I wonder if you could just lick the parts and have them stick to the popsicle.  You know, like your tongue to cold metal.  It might work, if the temp was cold enough
Rico

1,381

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

That's the one.....I forgot to mention that part.  Can you say cheap racing.  AJ is trying to build one for the little Ferrari 166 he has, should be interesting

1,382

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

Bill- AJ found the chassis to put them in.  Go to the BWA site www.bwaslotcars.com and click on the link named articles.  Now we just need to agree on the bodies
Rico

1,383

(1 replies, posted in Events)

Hey- In case anyone is interested, check out this link: http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/porta … post233392
for a little local flair.
Rico

1,384

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

George-  I have those motors on ebay before and have often wondered how good they might be.  I guess it's time to find out, put me in for two and let me know what the damage is.
Rico

1,385

(28 replies, posted in Cars)

Rico wrote:

Bill- I took the McLaren motor apart when I got home. There is excessive side to side movement in the end bell bushing which is causing the crown gear to wear. I checked the play on the motor in the green car and it seems excessive to me also. I wonder if there is a quality control issue at play. The Mclaren has been run pretty hard but the HRS car has not been run too much. Any ideas?
Rico

Bill replied:

I think you're probably right on the mark with the quality issue. These motors seem to be pretty cheap to me. They are just a throw away motor so I would imagine quality is not high on the manufacturers list. When you compare them to say a 16D motor the quality difference is obvious. I suppose you could replace the bushings in the motor, but to be honest with you I've never even split the can on one of the 1/32 car motors, so I don't really know first hand how serviceable they are. I was talking to Frank last night about the motors and he said they look a lot like any of the cheap inexpensive toy motors inside. I'd be willing to bet you could find some inexpensive (maybe even battery type) motors you could use as parts donors. It seems a shame these motors are up to $18 and they're not even serviceable, or have the ability for easy parts replacement!  --------------------Bill

Monte replied:

It

1,386

(4 replies, posted in Track)

Bill- Sounds like a cool find and well worth the $10.00 spent.  Today AJ and I went to the All British Field Meet to enjoy some classic cars and vintage racing. Alan Smith from 132slotcar.us was there again with a track to race on.  Last year AJ won the race and recieved the grand prize of a Scalextric Opel V8.  This year the stakes were even higher, a complete Scalextric Sport "Ultimate Endurance" set with two cars.  We both entered and I set fast qualifying lap and AJ was third fastest. When it came time to race I completely bombed and failed to transfer to the final round.  AJ made it in quite easily and managed to win two heats and second in the other two to win the grand prize for the second year in a row.  I think there might be pictures in the near future on the Scalextric USA website.
Rico

1,387

(18 replies, posted in BSCC)

Bill- I agree with everything that George states in his post.  My Mclaren has dragged on the track since day one, it always has passed tech and I have it on good authority that as long as it passes tech it is ok to run.  I am currently running it with shims between the pod and the chassis as I feared that the magnets were possible rubbing and/or shorting.  At first, with the racing magnet big side down it was the magnet rubbing, I later turned the magnet over and installed the stock magnet in the front. There was no more contact on the magnet, but the pod was still hitting.  I tried sanding it first (it was not flat) but it still rubbed and that is when I decided to try the shims. The shims actually made the car drive better due to less contact with the track and the lap times have come down to an observed 4.1 seconds, among the fastest inline cars. However it still rubs and I can see drag marks on the chassis itself on the area in front and rear of the pod.  In my mind this only leaves chassis and/or track flexing as the culprit.  There are a couple of spots on the track where there are elevation changes that a fair number of cars, and not just Slot.it cars, tend to scrape as you well know.  I can show you what I use as spacers if there is any interest.
Rico

1,388

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

I ran also ran Frank's car and I must say it was way different from what we are running and yet it was challenging and fun.  Four of them on the track would definitely be wild and wooly.  It was fun to hang the tail out around the curves, easily done, but quite controllable and it had decent power. I also witnessed the running of the Ninco and I can't say I was impressed much. Slow and not much grip.
That's all for now folks.................

1,389

(20 replies, posted in BSCC)

If someone wants to spend oodles of money on slot cars: they can and will no matter what the scale is.  I have seen $100.00+ HO cars and 1/24 motors for $281.00.  Do you have to spend that much money to have a good time?  Of course not, but people do and will continue to do so.  You and I enjoy tweaking our cars to try to make them better which usually leads to more expense for upgraded parts or whatever.  I don't get the idea that Randy does and except for his 300+ car collection, his expense per car is probably less than what you or I might spend.  I think we all know that any scale can be raced relatively cheaply or one can spend cubic dollars to race. I guess it just depends what one is trying to do and there is no right or wrong answer.
Rico

1,390

(18 replies, posted in BSCC)

Is that the same car you ran last time at BSCC? If it is- way cool.

1,391

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

We can try them against each other at the next race.  I have a TVR, Lister and a Scaley Corvette.  The TVR and the Lister have silicon tires.  I'll see if I can find something for the Vette.  It looks like the Fly Vettes are front motor also.  Both brands have stock 18K motors and should have similiar speed but I've never compared lap times.
Rico

1,392

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

I still like the Scalextric GT/Touring car idea, which would not exclude the Japanese GT's per se. Are they sidewinder, inline or front mounted motors?  George- are the Vipers front motor like the TVR? If they are you could add the Scaley Corvette into the mix as well.  I'm pretty sure there are white Viper kits, the TVR has 4-5 liveries but are kind of hard to find, and the Corvette has several examples.  The front motor cars are fun to run and handle differently than sidewinders or inlines. (i.e more loose)  Depending on speed differential, the Fly Lister Storm & Marcos might also fit in and there are a bunch of versions of those.  Front motor might be the way to go.

1,393

(20 replies, posted in BSCC)

I think I would have to agree with Randy to a certain degree.  1/32 are made of PLASTIC and I am amazed how tough some of them are.  I have seen some tremendous wallops and cars fly airborn clear off the table to the cement below and be put right back on the track.  Some cars are more prone to damage to the periphials (mirrors, wings, etc) but the major bodies remain intact and runnable.  Granted, I know very little about 1/24 hardbody racing, but I have done some 1/24 Flexi and it certainly is easy to damage them.  Maybe a large portion of it has to do with the operator????
Rico

1,394

(34 replies, posted in BSCC)

Byron- I checked out a few of the more popular online hobby stores and I don't see any Ninco Japanese Touring cars for sale.  Is BSCC thinking of supplying a spec car series (IROC)? I don't know if you've had a chance to check out some of the other posts, but you might want to take a look at the one titled BSCC Poll.  I like the idea of a GT/Touring class.  What about a class of no particular brand but with a break out time?  This would give everyone a chance to run their favorite brand and still level out the any major performance differences and definitely would bring out some more variety instead of the "Ferrari class" that the Slot.it series ended up being.  One additional thought, is that some modification should be allowed in the intrest of reliability. For example, allowing the use of aluminum wheels (at least on the rear) and maybe upgraded bushings.  Slot.it makes rear axle upgrades for most of the popular brands.  This is what I've done to my Scaley Aston resulting in no more repairs to gears and wheels in quite a few laps around the track.  Anyway, just some more ideas to kick around.

1,395

(27 replies, posted in Cars)

Don't forget to fuel up before attacking the loops and walls

1,396

(20 replies, posted in BSCC)

kidvolt wrote:

Randy, how long does it take to complete a pit stop if you go from empty to full?

Monte- I'd guess around 8 seconds or 2 laps. Randy can correct me if I'm wrong.
Rico

1,397

(39 replies, posted in Track)

I like it George, one of my favorite tracks.  How about that space Bryan?
Rico

1,398

(11 replies, posted in BSCC)

Any thoughts on brand, type of car, etc?  Something with multiple liveries and/or body styles is pretty much a prerequisite.  Scalextric Aston/Jag or how about the damage resistant cars Boxster, Audi, Ferrari, Lamborghini.  These are cheap and plentiful.  The new Fly Flyers may be out in time. Check them out here:
http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/News/ … -a343.html
Just a few ideas...

1,399

(20 replies, posted in BSCC)

Strategy????? Pit or be penalized, this is not strategy.  The only time I have found any type of strategy useful is on the last round of a heat when you will only need enough fuel to finish.

1,400

(20 replies, posted in BSCC)

I think my view on fuel/tire management is fairly well known.  As per instructions on fuel management the experienced racers are to monitor their own while those less experienced are to recieve help.  However, I am having a hard time standing by idlly while someone may be pitching away a nice heat because they forgot to fuel up their electric racecar.  So, I decided to give a reminder to anyone who needed it.  I did get distracted a few times and may have missed some, but others stepped in to help out. This may be contrary to the rules but is more along the lines of friendly competition.