1,351

(16 replies, posted in Modifications)

I do believe 110 degree would definitely affect a 1:1 racing tire. The rubber compound used for racing tires is much different than street tires for sure (the shop I worked in actually made recapped racing slicks). However I really doubt the slot car tires ever reach even 100 degrees (unless you are over aggressive when truing them!).

1,352

(16 replies, posted in Modifications)

I worked in a tire recap shop when I was young. It takes extreme heat to affect the hardness or softness of rubber. I can't imagine we are generating that kind of heat even with the heavy and fast 1/24 scratchbuilt cars. If the tires were too hot to handle after a heat race I'd say maybe, but I just don't see it in our application.

As far as urethanes go, the molding is a cold pour process so again I think you would be talking about extreme heat to charge the tire's shore rating. With that said I do know they will "come apart" if in the truing process you get too aggressive and create too much heat. So if they were reaching a heat cycle close enough to change the shore rating I think they would just come apart. But then again that is a LOT of heat, way more than what is experienced by the car itself on the track. I did a fair amount of experimentation when I was molding urethane tires, and I do know that having them under a very hot lamp does nothing to affect the shore rating (as measured by a shore meter). The heat from the lamp was probably in excessive of any tire temperatures the cars themselves could generate.

1,353

(7 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Silly Doc, it stopped upside down. There was no "funky smell" IN the car....It was on the ground!

1,354

(113 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

It's a beauty Howie!

1,355

(7 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Thanks Chris for not only getting this display up for me, but for building the car for me in the first place! It has been an AWESOME journey! And the best part is that baby can come down off its perch at any time to take me down a mountain road at 50 MPH plus!

1,356

(49 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

AWESOME!

Thanks Zack!

By the end of the race the track was pretty well rubbered up!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151h.jpg

Just one of the highlights of the OSCAR races at Inslot's Checkered Flag is lunch featuring Firehouse Sub Sandwiches! And this time I got ALL the sandwich orders right!

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151b.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151e.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151f.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151g.jpg

Here's some photos Zack took at the race. Thanks Zack!

In the pits the second place car. A combined effort by Stuart Wall and Zack Morgan.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151a.jpg

The winning car built by Tom Street with a Bob McFarland chassis.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151c.jpg

The third place car built by Bob Nakamura.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151.jpg

The fourth place entry built by Tachometer Ted.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151d.jpg

The fifth place car built by John Gill.
http://www.naste.org/members/bill/inslotoscar02151i.jpg

Inslot's Checkered Flag Raceway hosted an OSCAR team racing event on Saturday February 15th, 2020. The race was for OSCAR spec late model NASCARs. We had ten racers make it out for the race. Five two man teams were formed based on each racers one minute timed qualifying run. The distance over time method was used for qualifying.

Heat races were four minutes long. The race duration was set for eight rounds of racing, or eight times through all four lanes for each team (40 heat races). Each racer got eighty minutes of on track racing time. The real story was that each car got one hundred and sixty minutes of hard on track racing time! The teams had to work hard on the track and in the pits as well to keep up the pace. Teams experienced wear issues as well as failures. There were gear failures, body failures, bearing failures, and motor failures. The Oregon Donors team went through three motors, and a rear axle bearing and still made a come back to finish second! Another team blew their gear set in the last six minutes of the race. The winning team went through four sets of tires.

It was a fun race and I had a great time! I'd like to thank all of those who were able to make it over to race.

Here are the race results:

1st McFarlanders (Terrible Tommy & Bill)          1822 laps  - best lap time n/a (rider)

2nd Oregon Donors (Stewmeat & Zack)           1800 laps  - best lap time 3.840323 in blue

3rd GEARNAX (Gearloose & NAK NAK)              1714 laps - best lap time 3.999486 in blue

4th Grumpies  (Tachometer Ted & Scary Gary)  1714 laps - best lap time 3.959967 in blue

5th PFNJ  (TouringJohn & Jim)                         1705 laps - best lap time 3.897916 in blue

NASTE 2020 Point Series Championship Race No.8 @ Rippin' Ridin' Raceway February 13, 2020

Race Results - Classic Sports Cars Div.I Class:

1 Zack  69.2 Laps - 10 points
2 Daniel   68.8 - 9 pts.
3 Al   68.7  - 8 pts.
4 Jeff   65.1 - 7 pts.
5 Rico  64.2 - 6 pts.
6 Greg 62.8 - 5 pts.
7 Tom  58.1 - 4 pts.
8 Stan   57.4 - 3 pts.
9 Mitch 50.2 - 2 pts.
10 Monte 48.7 - 1 pt.

Current Standings for the 2020 NASTE Point Series Championship After 8 Races:

1st Zack - 69 points
2nd Daniel - 65 pts.
3rd Al - 58 pts.
4th Rico - 41 pts.
5th Jeff - 30 pts.
6th Mitch - 22 pts.
7th Greg - 21 pts.
8th Tom - 17 pts.
9th Chris - 15 pts.
10th Monte  - 14 pts.
11th Stan - 10 pts.
12th Bryan D. - 6 pts.
13th Fernando - 4 pts.
14th Burns - 3 pts.
15th tie Bill - 2 pts.
15th tie Tim Gijio - 2 pts.
17th tie Mark - 1 pt.
17th tie Joe - 1 pt.

Results from the February 13th race:

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_0147RRR.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/IMG_0148RRR.jpg

1,363

(27 replies, posted in PASER)

Tonight is yet another sad night. I learned today that Bob McFarland passed away yesterday. Bob was one of the nicest and most generous men I have ever known. He loved the slot car hobby more than anyone I have met. He did more for the slot racing community than anyone I have met. He was a talented innovative builder and an awesome competitor. Bob was not only a leader in the slot car racing community, he was the spirit of slot car racing in the Northwest. Our slot racing community will feel the loss, and I will miss him greatly.

Bob's obituary: https://obits.oregonlive.com/obituaries … =195568507

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/BOBMcFARLAND.jpg

1,364

(15 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

I believe it will be retail ordering straight from Jim Difalco.

If you order one of the Genesis network controllers you will eventually want different networks for the 1/32 cars and the 1/24 cars at Howie's. A higher overall ohm network for 1/32 cars at Al's will work at Howie's, but the overall response and sensitivity is going to be really soft for the higher current 1/24 cars.

Also if you get the DD304 you will probably want to swap out the heat sink for the larger one. If I remember correctly Zack's controller got really hot the first time he used it at Howie's. You might check with Zack for details.

Body list removed from Can Am rules.

1,366

(15 replies, posted in Slot Talk)

Tom, here's my 2 cents on those controllers you listed. First off Difalcos are my favorite controllers. They're tough! I've seen problems with other controllers, especially if you accidentally hook up backwards. I've only seen one issue with a Difalco.

The Difalco DD268 is the Fanatic model. It features multiple small potentiometers, one for each of the "bands" the controller wiper makes contact with. This controller has almost infinite adjustability. The compromise with this adjustability is the need to manually adjust each potentiometer for your baseline control. Once you have your baseline set you can adjust just like the other controller models using the sensitivity "knob". It can be time consuming setting up your baseline, depending on how particular you are, and the baseline settings may be something you want to change depending on tracks or cars. With this controller a notebook for keeping notes regarding settings might be handy. I have one of these controllers you can look at and try if you'd like before making a decision and purchase.

The DD281 is the top of the line newest Genesis model. The Genesis models use an interchangeable transistor network instead of the individual potentiometers for the wiper bands for the baseline settings. The only downside to this versus the Fanatic is; to change your baseline control settings you need to change out the "network" for a different one. For our racing that would probably mean one network for 1/24, and one network for 1/32. With the Fanatic you would just change each of the 12 or 15 potentiometer settings. The DD281 also comes equipped with a traction control potentiometer and the Pro brake potentiometer. I like the traction control option, but I'm not sure the Pro brake potentiometer is really needed for the racing we do around here. The DD271 is the same controller without traction control. I also have a DD281. It is the controller of mine you've used before.

The DD270 gives you the Genesis controller without the traction control and Pro brake potentiometer (uses the economy pot.). I think one advantage of the Pro brake potentiometer is it is less likely to burn up if you hook up backwards. The DD280 is just the DD270 with traction control added.

The DD304 Stan mentions is basically the DD280 but primarily designed for 1/32 racing. It comes with a network for racing 1/32 cars whereas the 200 series Genesis controllers come with networks for 1/24 racing. I'm sure this controller would work for both 1/32 and 1/24 with a network change. My personal choice was to go with the 200 series controllers for 1/24 because I feel the components are more robust. Most 1/24 scale cars use a lot more current than the 1/32 cars which means more amperage through the circuit.

When in doubt just email Jim Difalco for his advice. He is great about responding to email questions and will be happy to build you the right controller to suit your needs!

1,367

(113 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

I believe Zack's body was the BETTA and CLASSIC 1973 Porsche 917-30.   www.bettaandclassic.com

My understanding is the rules for this class were made to keep the cars representative of the real racing cars, true to Northwest True Scale's mission. With that said it should be noted that just because a car is listed by make and model, depending upon the manufacturers design and interpretation of the car, it may not be suitable for or meet the intent of the class. Many of the cars listed are available in versions that are intended for serious competition with no regard from the manufacturers as to being true to scale. Case in point is the TI22. It is listed as a legal body however, there are versions of the body that have exaggerated nose angles and rear wing configurations. These designs are intended to add aerodynamic benefits to slot cars with little to no emphasis on replicating the actual car. If you adhere strictly to the rules, the only TI22 body that is legal is the True Scale body, and it is no longer available. Personally I like the more realistic bodies for this class and in my opinion I think we should update the list of legal bodies before the next racing season for these cars.

1,368

(51 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Videos from the Early Modified race on February 8, 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJvqGvZlIsU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xcwry22F13Y

1,369

(113 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

Yes we had some awesome racing at Rapid Raceway Saturday night! There were a lot of fast, good handling, new Can Am cars and Early modifieds out on the track! Thanks Howie for a great time!

Here's some video I took-
Can Am: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2yuMUI05cQ

That's a pretty slick set up!

1,371

(258 replies, posted in Rapid Raceway)

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/rapidearlymodifieda1.jpg

http://www.naste.org/members/bill/earlymodifiedrapid2.jpg

CLASSIC NASCAR HARD BODY RULES - SPRINGWATER RACEWAY

GENERAL RULES: NW TRUE SCALE SPORTSMAN
BODIES:  1/24 MONOGRAM/REVELL ONLY
GRAND PRIX 84-92
T-BIRD 81-88
OLDSMOBILE 86-92
BUICK REGAL 81-92
MONTE CARLO 84-89
CHEVY LUMINA - ALL

NO BODY MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED. BODY TO BE UNTRIMMED, EXCEPT SIDE SKIRTS AND FRONT VALANCE FOR TRACK CLEARANCE. BODY TO HAVE FRONT AND REAR WINDOWS. QUARTER WINDOWS OPTIONAL.

CHASSIS:  SPORTSMAN CHASSIS RULES. INLINE WITH NO HINGED PANS. RATTLE CHASSIS ONLY.  REAR TRACK TO BE 3.25 INCH MAXIMUM. FRONT TRACK TO BE 3.25 MAXIMUM. AXLE SIZE 1/8. MINIMUM GROUND CLEARANCE IS .055 FRONT AND BACK.

TIRES:  REAR: .900 MINIMUM DIAMETER. FRONT – 7/8 INCH DIAMETER WITH A MINIMUM ½ INCH WIDTH FOAM TIRES. NO CONING OR NARROWING OF THE FRONT TIRES. MUST BE STOCK. COATING FRONT TIRES IS ALLOWED.

MOTORS: PROSLOT-#PS2101, PS2001 and PS2003 OR PARMA #502 SUPER 16D MOTOR ALLOWED.

SPECIAL NOTE: ONE EXTRA BODY WILL BE ALLOWED FOR SPECIAL EVENT RACES. THE BODY MUST BE THE SAME YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL. PAINT SCHEME DOES NOT HAVE TO MATCH. BODY TO BE SUBMITTED AT TECH.

1,373

(0 replies, posted in Events)

This year the Fray is scheduled for March 4th through the 7th.

I plan to attend this year and have already made my hotel reservations!

For me this is a 5 day commitment. I was unable to make it last year due to inclement weather. I am even more determined to be there this year! I will be attending as a"Mooch" as I do not have any competitive equipment. Luckily for me Mike leech is assembling an awesome oregon team again this year! Thank you Mike!

This is a NATIONAL event, and as far as I know the biggest slot car event in the nation! The last time I participated there were over 100 entries! That's right, and we're not talking 25 guys entering 4 cars each. We're talking 100 actual slot car racers! It truly is an awesome event! More practice track time and race time than anyone could ever need!

If you're interested in going, or have already made plans to go, and are interested in carpooling, I have 3 extra seats in the Xterra for passengers. My plan is to head down Wednesday morning (the 4th), and return Sunday morning the 8th.

==========Bill

Uh Doc......................your point????

MRRC UPDATE:

This morning I tested all the MRRC cars I have pictured. These are all used cars out of Goose's stuff, some of them were worked over slightly, some were totally stock. All of the cars had the stock wheels. With stock tires the cars had the typically bouncing and gyrating going on. The cars that he had changed the rear tires to urethane were very smooth running. I assume he had trued them. He also had one car he slipped silicones on. It was also very smooth. This tells me some of the urethane shod cars rear tires may not have been trued.

The only other modifications I found in the cars was the addition of just a little bit of weight. The Cheetah ran exceptional smooth and it had just 1/4 oz. or so of lead just behind the guide flag. None of the cars had the body screws loosened for body float.

Power-wise at 12.75 volts on my track the cars were very smooth and easily controlled. Power delivery was very linear and controllable. I'd say not overpowered or explosive at all.

I think these cars would be suitable for the class you guys have in mind. I would recommend keeping the allowable mods to changing the rear tires to urethanes and adding lead weight. I would put a cap on the car's maximum weight to keep this modification from getting out of hand through "creativity". One or two pieces of sticky backed lead, that's it (INSIDE the chassis - on the bottom NOT allowed).

I will bring some cars to Al's for further testing. Here's my thoughts on the power issue; if the cars have too much power at 10 volts on a shorter, tighter track like Al's, there is no reason the voltage can't be turned down to achieve the desired power level for the cars. I've raced with power levels as low as 6 volts.

===========Bill