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Bill,
I love the look of the R-M cars but they just don't run as well as they look in my opinion.  The best handling one I've driven is a McLaren M6 that was modified by Greg Petrolati.  The M6's are angle winders and seem to be the best of the lot.  I did manage to get my R-M Vintage Nascar to run ok as well but certainly far from my better cars.

Rico

Drew,

Try Tap Plastics like Bill said.  I've used their scrap bin many times.  They are on the south side of Sandy Blvd. just west of Wendy's in a greenish colored building.

Impressive I must say.

I know we already have Marshall Field, but I think this track should be named Marshall Hole :-O

Nice job on the track Drew, keep up the good work.

Rico

After some further checking at TrueScale some bodies when you click on them list lexan or PTEG, not all bodies are available in PTEG.

Couple of questions.
1.) is this the same chassis as the GT-1's? 
2.) I take it GT-1 is dead?
3.) CanAm didn't didn't start until 1966 and ended for good in 1977. What bodies are acceptable prior to '66?
4.) I have a Ferrari 312PB body mounted to a Flexi chassis, would it be legal?

Rico

Keep up the good work Bill, looking good.

Rico

Well, ok then, lets get started.

I received this car for Father's Day and while not my first choice of cars it was a gift and therefore not returnable, at least not to me.  Of course I tried it out of the box with the magnet and it was about what you would expect, not great but not too bad.  Next step after trueing the stock tires was to remove the magnet.  We are now going no where in a hurry, no traction, fish tailing like crazy and the guide won't stay in the slot.  Aftermarket tires are not readily available and the stock wheels are fairly worthless with the trademark Revell rib that makes it nearly impossible to use any other tire, so they had to go.

Placing the car on the set up block showed the guide was very shallow in the slot.  I suppose I should have replaced the guide and I still might, but there had to be another way to make the guide lower in the slot.  Revell has devised a front axle block that it uses on all the different vintage Nascars and locates them with different strips with holes in them. (see pics)

I figured out by placing the strips on the bottom of the axle holder instead on top where they belong it would lower the chassis/guide in relation to the front wheels.  One problem solved and it made the car look like a more serious race car. 

I removed the rear wheels and found that SuperWheels by Slotcar Corner were the proper size and I just happened to have a spare set along with some urethane tires I recieved from a slot brother in France that fit the wheels perfectly.  I then turned the stock wheels down to fit inside the replacement wheels.  This was the easy part but things have a way of going badly and this next step was my Waterloo.  The now inserts fit in the wheels ok but they stuck out too far.  I filed them down as far as I thought was safe but they still stuck out.  What if I use my Dremel to make a small indentation in the center where it was hitting the hub?  The first one turned out pretty well but I got carried away on the second one and it is rather deformed.  This and grinding down the wheel hub resulted in a decent enough fit.

Next I experimented with weight placement and this is what I came up with.

The car now ran reasonably well but was still very noisy so I glued the interior, front and rear bumpers to prevent them from rattling.

The car now runs as fast as it did with the magnet and it much more driveable and stays in the slot.  The crappy Revell gears are still loud and provide little braking but those are things I can live with for now.

Rico

Thanks once Monte and Victoria for a scintillating day of racing.  I left fat, full and happy with a victory and a 2nd place in the proxy.

Thanks again
Rico