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What I'm thinking at this point Rico is; no alterations to the stock chassis. At 10 volts my Classic chassied car runs smooth without any added weight. I believe the motor to be stock, so you'll probably just have to test it out. Go ahead and leave the weight in for now and test it out next time you're over here. Those weight set ups Larry made are easily removed. I don't think they will be necessary at the lower voltage on my shorter track. We'll have to try it out and see.

My intent is to race these cars as they were designed to be raced when they were first introduced back in the early sixties. I do not want to try to modify them to make them better than they were initially. This way collector cars can be raced without destroying their actual or sentimental value. I see no point in modifying these old cars, as there are many other options for racing cars with superior performance.

==========Bill

YES YES YES!!!!   GAR-VICS RULE!!!!

Completed a little testing today. 36D motors run very well at 10 volts. KTM or Kemtron motors also seem to have plenty of power at 10 volts. K&B motors are slow and week at 10 volts. Most of the old style slot cars were made to run on large commercial tracks with long straights. All the ones I have seem to be geared for that type of track. Some re-gearing may enhance their performance....

More testing to follow..........

A few more examples of elligible cars:

That's RIGHT! OLD CRAP!

  For almost as long as I can remember I have been collecting slot cars. All kinds of slot cars, small ones as well as large ones. Although I have thinned out the collection over the past few years, I still have a few old 1/24 cars I have just not been able to let go of. Not that they're anything special or super rare, I just like them. I have always planned to do some racing of these old cars, but it seems I always jusy kept finding some reason to put it off. Well I'm hitting the 60 mark this January and it's high time to get these old crates on the track where they belong!

  Most of you that race here at TooBad Motorplex have at least one old 1/24 scale slot car sitting around. For those that don't, the prices on some of these cars have come down quite a bit on Ebay, and you can actually pick one up for less than the price of a new 1/32 car. As far as spare parts, I should be able to cover most everyone that wishes to race these beasts!

  So what are the rules you may ask? Typical for TooBad we are going to keep it simple. Cars elligible for the Over 50 Class will be cars with a mass produced chassis that was available in a kit or RTR (ready to run i.e. Cox, Strombecker, Revell, etc.). That also includes the chassis only kits, such as those manufactured by Dynamic. No modifications will be allowed to the chassis (as in the addition of weight pans or handling pans). Legal motors will be the 36D cans, as well as the motors that were used before the 36Ds became the standard (i.e. Kemtron, Pitman, Atlas, Tyco, etc.). I know what you're thinking; there is a loyt of disparity between those listed motors and chassis types. True. So what I see is a number of divisions within the class. The cars will be raced all together, but finish positions will be scored according to division. The cars motor type, chassis type, and body type (either clear plastic type or injection molded model type) will be factors determining divisions within the class. I will be recording and keeping track of each cars lap times as well as number of laps completed during the races. At some point we may have enough data to combine some of the class divisions based on similar performance. Phew! Oh yeah, the MAIN RULE; ALL cars must use Paul Gage urethane rear tires! Paul makes very nice replacement tires for the old 1/24 cars. MINIMUM rear tire diameter shall be 1 1/8 inch!

  So get 'em out and get 'em ready! Bring them out to the next Odd Thursday Night Race and get the lube warm! We race 'em on January 29th!!!!