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The NASTE Forum → Posts by wb0s
by wb0s » Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:27 am
This is the assembly proceedure for the Scholer Intruder chassis. There are other types of Scholer chassis, but the pieces for each and the assembly proceedures are similar.
Here are the parts contained in the package.
The screws have different head types, as well as different lengths.
Here's a parts list Howie put together to help us get started on building a hardbody chassis:
Brass - available at some hardware stores:
.090 inch x 3/4 inch wide brass strip - used for side pans = 1 @ 12 inch length
.090 inch x 1 inch wide brass strip - used for center section = 1 @ 12 inch length
.040 inch x 1/2 inch wide brass strip - used for guide flag tongue = 1 @ 12 inch length (can substitue manufactured steel guide flag tongue if desired. Available at most slot car shops or online)
.062 inch x 1/4 inch wide brass strip - used for front axle mount = 1 @ 12 inch length
1/8 inch or 3/32 inch I.D. round or square tubing - used for front axle mount = 1 @ 12 inch length (if using axle bearings use 3/16 inch tubing for 3/32 axel, or 1/4 inch tubing for 1/8 inch axle).
3/32 inch square tubing - used for chassis hinges = 1 @ 12 inch length
1/16 inch square tubing - used for hinges and stops = 1 @ 12 inch length
.055 inch steel wire - used for hinges and mount points = 1 @ 12 inch length
.062 inch steel wire - used for hinges, mount points, and stops = 2 @ 12 inch length
3/32 inch angle brass strip - used for body mounts = 1 @ 12 inch length (can substitute 1/8 inch angle)
Specific Slot Car Parts:
1 motor/axle mount for the specific motor you plan to use, and for the motor configuration you plan for your chassis (i.e inline, anglewinder, side winder. Refer to the rules for the class you are building for).
2 axles 1/8 inch or 3/32 inch (refer to class rules).
1 guide flag.
1 guide flag mount (or substitute scratchbuilt).
2 pickup braids (installed in guide flag).
4 bearings or oilites (one pair for each axle - 2 front & 2 -rear. Can eliminate if using axle I.D. tubing).
1 motor (refer to rules).
2 motor lead wires (approx. 12 inches total = 6 inches each).
1 crown gear (for inline motor) or spur gear (for anglewinder or sidewinder).
The previous posts to this topic were copied over from the Northwest True Scale Racers site with Howie's permission. The NTSR site is scheduled to close down at the end of this year. I will be copying over as much of the great information posted there as possible in the next few months. =====Bill
by howie » Thu Dec 15, 2016 12:52 pm
Working on an Xfinity NASCAR for Blake. Beings we voted to go to a Lexan Gen 6 NASCAR bodied car, the only one's we could find are form Pattos, the bodies are rough, the wings are worse, but that is what we have to work with. So I decided to make the wing out of .005" sheet styrene by Evergreen. I cut it and bent it according to the pictures of the 1 to 1 NASCAR and using a strong double stick tape by Scotch, stuck it to the back of the car. When I am done with the car I will post a picture, it is a Dodge Challenger.
by racerbob9 » Sat Nov 05, 2016 12:37 pm
Finally got a GT3 body done! Looking forward to a new season.
by howie » Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:21 pm
Finally finished this car, it was going to Dayle but it will be Blake's new Xfinity NASCAR. The paint scheme is simple as this body will be raced one time only in the Rapid 500. After that race the NASCAR"s will be going to Lexan bodies for the 2017 season and beyond.
by howie » Fri Apr 22, 2016 3:29 pm
In the process of getting Blake a TA2 chassis ready for tomorrow's race. This chassis is a Slotting Plus # SP800001. I used 1/4" brass angle and soldered it to the chassis side mounts. I cut the width of the side mounts to accommodate the body. For the race tomorrow Blake will be taping the body on, but I will make body mounts to do away with the tape method. The race tomorrow for the TA2 is a fun race and so his car will not be completed, but will be racing. This chassis is also going to be used for his NASCAR, the only thing he will have to do is change motors and bring the pans a little farther out, easy to do as they are mounted in a slot to slide in and out! Tracking and wheelbase are the same.
by wb0s » Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:25 am
That body really looks good on there Howie!
by howie » Thu Apr 14, 2016 9:21 am
Currently working on a new Can-Am car. Don't know what brand this chassis is out of my old chassis drawer but it will be used on this new Lexan body from Blue Groove: Google it. They do a lot of bodies for R/C cars also. This body is a .030" Lexan Chaparral. It is almost like working with a hard body! These bodies should last a long time. In case you want to spray paint, the blue coating prevents over spray on the outside of the body. The blue coating easily peals off. The body is rather narrow for this chassis: 2.970" at the bottom. The chassis is 3.190". So if my math is right I will have to narrow the chassis by .220". The body is really nice and detailed, I see no flaws in it. I already roughed out the wheel wells. Once again I will fabricate an adjustable rear axle mount.
by howie » Thu Apr 14, 2016 9:12 am
Very unique body mounting Bill, gets away from the not so cool taping method and that is a good thing! I have never liked the taping method, but it is easy and I suppose that is why it is done so much!
by wb0s » Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:02 pm
I've also been working on my Modified. Howie built me a chassis, which I appreciate greatly, and I am currently working on the body and detail pieces. Here is the body mounting system I used. Using JB Weld I attached traction magnets from 1/32 scale slot cars to the chassis. I Attached small L shaped pieces of sheet metal to the inside of the body, also secured with JB Weld. This system seems to hold well enough I think I'll try it on my Sportsman car also.
by wb0s » Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:57 pm
I have LOTS of projects on the bench! Here's my TA2 Camaro waiting to be finished. I'm in the process of adding extra width without making fender flares.
by howie » Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:33 am
Making progress on the second F1. A simple "L" bracket out of .032" brass with two holes drilled in it and soldered to the chassis. As you can see this chassis will have adjustable ride height in the rear. I am using the Sloting Plus axle bracket part # SP902633. Next step is an axle set up for each front wheel.
by howie » Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:21 pm
Finished the Red Bull F1. My next F1 is going to be a black Red Bull car. These are going to be fun to race.
by howie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:11 am
Bob, that Mustang looks very nice.
by howie » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:08 am
Starting on another F1. I am going to convert this chassis out of my old chassis drawer. I already replaced the piano wire going across the chassis and used the option to make a shorter wheel base. I ordered some adjustable axle brackets from Professor Motor that hasn't arrived yet. I plan on making a separate axle for each front wheel. I will make the same rear axle mount like I did on Blake's Can-Am.
by racerbob9 » Tue Mar 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Starting to do the 2015 Mustang GT..........I think I have old bondo
by howie » Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:33 pm
F1 project continues. Ok, here is the deal: I soldered in the front axle and as I expected the axle is higher than the body. So I cut the body to go around the axle, then I used a straw and super glued it to cover up the cut, I removed half the straw on the under side length ways and the axle rides underneath. Then I used a small amount of putty to smooth out the surface. I don't know how this is going to hold up under racing conditions but it is worth a shot in my opinion. I will have to paint this part on the outside of the body, probably a black primer. I am kind of looking forward to racing this car just to see how it will hold up!
by howie » Wed Feb 24, 2016 11:08 am
Back to the Indy car project. This class will be known as F1 from now on as the body we are using looks more like an F1 than an Indy car. Also the Indy car these days are ugly in my opinion, and who wants to race an ugly slot car?
I am putting the front axle and wheels together. I am using front tires from Pro track, part #400. I cut them down to about .955". I slid some tubing ( .093" od.X .064" id. ) into the wheel and tightened the set screw enough to hold, then cut it to the length I wanted. Then I cut a longer piece to make it so the tracking is set at the legal limit of 3.250". The axle is .062" piano wire and fits snug enough in the tubing to make a good rolling wheel, especially after oiling. I will solder a washer on each end of the axle. I will solder the center tubing to the chassis.
by howie » Sat Feb 20, 2016 10:24 pm
Much to my dismay, the aluminum motor bracket that I was going to use in Blake's car does not have enough room for a 34t. 48 pitch gear! So I dug out one of those "cheap" brackets. It was too wide to fit the chassis, so I cut it in half and the saw blade width took out enough material to fit after I soldered it back together. Not as pretty as the aluminum one, but it will get the job done. However, now the motor is not centered, so I made sure the motor sat on the inside in the banks of the track, sort of like a Super Modified on an oval track!
Ok, NOW it is Blake's turn!!
by wb0s » Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:08 pm
Howie, I really like the rubber tubing idea for the pin mounts on your Shoeler chassis! Great idea!
by howie » Fri Feb 19, 2016 4:14 pm
Chassis is Finally done! Body mounted! Now it is Blake's turn!
by howie » Wed Feb 17, 2016 10:11 pm
Getting back to Blake's Early Modified ( page 13 ). This chassis is an old chassis I built yrs. ago and is modified to fit this car. It looks kind of rough but it will do the trick. I have a little more work to do on it and Blake can take it home and paint and detail it.
by howie » Mon Feb 01, 2016 4:46 pm
Ok, on with the project. After letting the JB weld dry over night I cut the tubes to the length I wanted. I bent the nails and had a hard time bending them just right. So I came up with another solution. The nails slide in real easy into the tube, meaning they would slide out also while racing! I need something to add a resistance to the nail. So I cut a piece of motor wiring and striped the rubber coating off and cut it to the length I wanted and forced it over the tubing and super glued it in place. It works great. Not pretty, I will make it prettier next time if I choose to go this way again. If I do go this way again, I will make the brass tubing shorter.
by howie » Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:31 am
I am working on converting my former GT-1 Scholer chassis to a GT3 chassis ( not much to it ). I am using small nails ( .055" D. X .800" L. ) to mount the body as I am about out of the pins and have PLENTY of these nails. I drilled new holes in the mounting plate with a .092" drill bit and filed the holes out just slightly to make a tight fit. I am using brass tubing ( .095" ID X .062" OD. ). Beings the body mounting bracket is aluminum, I am going to use JB Weld to hold the pieces together, ( hopefully ). I am going to use the Austin Martin GT3 body for this build.
The nails will have to be slightly bent in order to make it a tight fit to hold them in place during racing.
I used a piece of piano wire to go through the tubes to keep them straight and will remove them upon the JB Weld drying. Then I will cut the tubes to the proper length.
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