1

(8 replies, posted in Cars)

Lamborghini Miura is such a funny car to me. There were a couple of design cues that were cool in that era that looked great on some cars, and looked so terrible on the Miura. The more stripped down and less louvered always seemed to look the best to me, like Mitch's Gold.  I really love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3TJKdoEef0 story of his dad's Muira.

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(28 replies, posted in Cars)

I changed this post to be more constructive; As a Noob to the group, I've found the classes a bit confusing. I'd like to know which cars to run in the classes. Tell me the make and model. (slot.it ferrari.f40.black stripe on the motor.8mm wide tires) Buy it, run it, mess with it. I've have a lot of fun with the trans-am class, because I know what it is, and the rules are pretty clear. Its a scalextric camaro or ford. Run it, break it, fix it.
But... I also love the GT open class and the Classics, because we get to see some really beautiful cars, except there are so many cars! Which is the dilema - I love them all... but I've also had a hard time understanding what fits the catagory, and yet stay competitive.

Some things that could be helpful (fuel for the fire):
- Photos of the typical cars eligible for each class
- Include wheel base and overall width. 
- Handicaps. If you give the slower racers/cars 20 laps, knowing that you have to push to beat that, we have a race yo! I can never beat Ricco or Mitch, but if you give me 20 laps, the tides just turned. Now they got something to do...!
- Penalties for pods.
- Spec the motor.
- Adjust the class from season to season

Clarity on  open classes (GT and Classics?) and a couple restricted classes (Trans am, BRM, Can am) and  I think you have a good thing.

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(9 replies, posted in Cars)

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I was trying to decide how to post this, and at the end of the evening really love Mitch's finish on his cars. One of the cars I have in the works is a Nissan Skyline which my daughter planned the color scheme, and I painted.

Both turned out dreadful, and could use help in the masking territory for sure.

I picked up some 3m 'blue vinyl' masking tape from our sign shop in inner SE (under $10 per 1/4" roll), and will post updates as they come. We used green, blue, scotch (sadly to say it was crap), and plain masking tapes to dissapointed results. The photos don't do it justice on just how bad it looks.

My little caveat here is that I see lots of 'oh yeah, use this...' on the ol' internoodle and very few people that try it out and share what really works. Being Portland, if you want something, you generally make it yourself, so I figure our group is the pioneers of really getting it wrong first.

The silver lining is that its my second brass chassis. The hubs are Fly Vipers tucked into a 60's narrow sedan type, and the car PINS it with a Fly motor, for a four door sedan...Japan...

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(3 replies, posted in Cars)

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Boxter Chassis to 930 Plastic model, CHECK!

Pretty happy with the performace too! It turns laps about as fast as the other cars I have with the same stock motor, so I should still be able to be ample heckled by the regulars.
Half interior from the original model fit, just need to fit up a driver, and I think she's gonna fit the GT class.

Paint ain't no pro job tho.

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(3 replies, posted in Cars)

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Got my rims JB Welded on... and the car went nowhere. Now that there's traction (super cool Gage tires attaches to who knows what aluminum rims), the motor gave up. It goes on a push start, but that's not gonna keep up with Mitch, Jeff, and Amy, and Monte will just have a field day with the heckling.

Monday was daddy daycare, and we went on a great adventure - We started at Northwest Magnets in the Missippi nieghborhood - they have a great selection of neo...brhmm...hmmm magents and a great friendly staff. But not the EXACT size I'm after. They also can't recharge a magnet, which I thought was this car's issue.

Off to Magnetic Specialties in Clackamas. They rebuild/build industrial magnets and have a rig for remagnitizing, so found what I was doing REALLY interesting because its sooo small. They said the magnet on the car was fine, but tried to charge it anyway, with no difference in the end. They also sent me away with a stack of pre neo-hmm-burm-pum magnets. I shimmed them into the old magnets slot. I got a runner!

SOOOO.... theres this guy in the uk that offers a Neodymium magnet that bolts right into an RX motor, Scalextric Car Restorations. I'm going to order here in the next couple weeks, and want to know if anybody want to join into an order.

Back to the photo's: I like the way the car looks now, just seems more right in the back end. Got myself a can of green paint... and a couple extra aluminum hubs and paul tires for the front... also jb'd in a guide mount.

6

(3 replies, posted in Cars)

Looking for some guidance on fixing up a Cooper. Its in great shape, just needs love.

a. It came with one rubber button for a tire. But I have the the Revell rims with Gage tires to match. They fit the axel nicely.
Thinking I can tap and thread on some nuts to the existing axel and have a pretty good rear end.

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b. The front is really loose. Are the wheels supposed to move up and down a 1/4"? Thinking of JB welding in a solid axel for the front.

c. The guide is a single pin with track braid. Its actually not too bad considering.
But either change to the braid to something softer.
or refit with a drop arm that sticks out
or refit with a b-nova guide at the current pin location (it would be behind the front wheels)

d. It has a beautiful open cage motor that runs slow but solid. Why ruin a good thing?

The best project is the one I just started, and the one I just finished...

Thanks!
Jeff B
(BTW - I'm stocked and loaded for Thursday's. Really love having a 1/24 BRM. Too much fun!)

7

(3 replies, posted in Cars)

Saving this one for posterity as a first attempt and scratch building. I'd bring it to a club meet, but I'm afraid of the tail dragging and pulling up all the copper tape. The car does some nice lap times on our home scally track.

It started with a couple of rubbish womps that 'needed oiling' from the Bay and a Badwill model find.
The womp chassis was cut at the body mounts and resoldered on. The front wheel and guide tabs were flattened in a vise, narrowed, and redrilled. The rear wheels were cut down in width along with the tires.

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The motor is a 15,000 rpm Scaleauto under $10
The rear tires are Paul Gage.

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Things I learned;
The holes in a Womp chassis are far from straight, true, and perpendicular to each other.
Womp wheels come in various sizes, but electrical tape makes for a great shim material.
Flexible silicone wire is much better.
The scally arc system only accepts black guides to register lap times.

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A crash and bash Scalextric Boxter has the same wheel base, length and width - so there is another retrofit in the future here to try and get something going... Gonna try and fit that 930 to a boxter chassis.