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The idea for this class is to unite all slot car clubs in the Oregon area to get to know each other and have a fun class of car that no other club is racing. H.O., 1/32 and 1/24th all running & racing the same type of car for a fun get together about 4 times or more a year.. This was not to conflict with any other clubs race program or to add a class to anyones program.. So we hope this group only unites us all with a fun class to run + get to race other racers of other scales and clubs or groups. We are going to have a meeting sometime around the first of October.. Bad Bob's on Vacation.. Please let other groups and racers know about this new class of very cool fast cars..
________ Lightning Larry_________
I agree with the FCR car... After running mine at Bill's last night this could be a easy fun class..
Beat'em or Cheat'em.. If you can't win fair then cheat... The words of Lee Dundus my Hero..
"If your in control your not going fast enough" "Rufus" Parnelli Jones
Anyone that is looking for a good running chassis or car for this class and just don't know If your buying a good one or not I'm willing to do the looking for you and send good deals that I see on e-bay.. All you need to do is e-mail me at larry302@viclink.com so I can get your e-mail address and when I see some smoking deals I can pass them on to you..
Rico asked me how do you know if your getting a good car or a complete running chassis so this should make it easy for everyone.. I have seen a lot of good cars go for around $30 or under that without much work would be great cars for this class.. Most will need new rear tires and Bill and I have tried the new Jel-Claws and they work great and fit almost all the rims that come on these cars. If I can help you please let me know.. Larry
Hey guys I pulled my blog because I didn't feel that my nagative comments were good for the group. I'm sorry for anything I said that might have hurt anyone. This isn't the first time I have put my foot in my mouth... I'm Sorry guys.. I was wrong..
AJ the trouble with running any vintage car is that I have been building vintage slot cars and collecting them for 45 years and I have about everything they ever made that was fast.. Now do you want to race against me? We have to start at a entry level vintage car that are cheap to buy and easy to get. I just won another Revell car tonight for $13.27. You can't by a H.O. car that cheap that is 40 years old.. If I can do it anyone can.. I have a lot of vintage slot cars that I would like to run, but does anyone want to run $100 or more slot cars? No.. Some of the best handling car by COX, Classic, Monogram and Revell sell for way over $100 - $1000 for new in the box cars.
I picked the cars and chassis that are cheap to buy and easy to get parts for and work on. They made millons of these cars in the hey day and there are alot of them still around cheap.. the thing with these cars is that you can't lower them because of the motor & gearing and you have to run the same gear ratio + a 36d motor and it would be real hard for anyone to cheat. It will all be in the way you set it up that makes it handle or not.. These are driving cars and it will be the guy who drives the best that wins the race... not the fastest car... Putting a rewind in your motor will only hurt you because these cars are so top heavy but yet light. These car won't be able to handle the power they come with.. LC
Well right now on e-bay there are no less then 2 dozen cars or chassis for sell.. I understand that you are into the scale 1/32 racing and this might not be for everyone. Before the big 1/32 scale stuff got going our group ran our own cars that we built and the racing was fun & completive.
This New Class will give all of us who want a chance to see what it was like to race and go back into the sixties and reliving the first RTR slot cars. These cars were fast for what they were and every slot car company made this type of aluminum sidewinder 36d chassis. I have no idea if one chassis is better then another, but what I remember from back in the day they were all about the same..
These cars are like 1/24 T-jets to drive witch means the fastest car might not win the race. You have to drive them and work on the car a little to get it to handle.. There is really nothing to build unless you start with just a chassis and then all you have to do is bolt it together. This isn't rocket science to find & buy one of these cars.
The cost is about the same or less then one of the 1/32 cars to buy. And the nice thing is when you get done racing it you can resale it and get your money back. You won't do that with a 1/32 car that you have been racing. I'm into cheap racing and to be able to restore & race then resale the car and make money seems good to me.
Hey this is for fun and and the reason these cars will be competive with each other is because they all have to run tall rear wheels and tires because of the big gear you have to run with the tall 36d motor. Most of the cars will have to run 1 1/8" rear tire so the ring gear will clear the track.. That is just the way the chassis were designed back then and everyone copied other manufacture that had the hot selling car of the week. So every company ended up with making this type of aluminum chassis for there RTR cars.
Mr. Bill will be putting pictures of all the types of cars and chassis for the NEW Class so you know what to look for and buy. It is best & cheapest to buy a complete running car or chassis, but if you have a lot of vintage slot car parts then you could start with just a chassis. Anyway check out the pictures that Bill will be putting on tonight in the NEW SLOT CAR CLASS in the form.
Ok for an answer on rear tires... There is no way we can run a spec. tire in this class because you are going to have to hunt for tall used or new tires on e-bay and you can't find enough of the same tires for every car. Most of the sponge tire of the sixties was about the same.. Hard and harder, but the good thing is you don't ware out tires.. A lot of the old used tires can be turned down a very little bit and take the crust off and they work good like new ones. You could run new Parma Drag tires, but these cars are so light and the tires have so much grip that you would be tipping over at every corner. The rear end of the car needs to be able to slid in the corners to stay in the slot.. Also they made some huge rear tires back in the day so use some wisdom when buying tires... We would like the rear tires to be inside the body if at all possible and not look like they ran them 3 feet out of each side of the body back in the day.
I don't think the plan was to race these this year, but to let everyone have time to find a car and tool it up for racing next winter.
Rico these cars are run on a 1/24th scale routed wood tracks with NO magnets like your use too. You will really have to drive these cars and it might take some time to learn to drive one of these babies, but it will be a blast and a lot of fun. And isn't that what slot car racing is about? THE FUN! Larry
I think Rico is on to something.. NOT Flexis but 1/24th Vintage slot cars.. Like the new class that Bill & I are trying to get going. These are the first RTR's that were in the sixties.. The T-jets of big scale.. They sold over 1 million Classic Manta Ray in 1966 and there are still a lot of them still out there or in part.. And that is just the Manta Ray... Then Garvic, Monogram, Tester & Revell Made like chassis cars that ran 36d sidewinder motors with body mounts built into the chassis... For easy mounting of a 4" body like the parma Nascar. I vote no more IROC and start building our own cars and racing them.. Check out in the !/24th Blogs..
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